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johnfunderwhite 12-07-2017 07:52 PM

Greetings dakota fans
 
Hi folks, New to this site. looking forward to getting, and sharing useful info with Dakota owners. I do have an issue with my 04. The heater blower motor only works on the first 3 speeds. It will not run on High. I've tested all that I know to include motor, switch, and resistor. Am I missing something? This is really ticking me off. Hope some one can point me in the right direction. Thanks.

oldmarine 12-07-2017 10:23 PM

1 Attachment(s)
I'm attaching a wiring diagram from the service manual for the heater blower motor and the resistor. The red line shows the path from the ignition switch to the blower through the blower switch (#1 position on diagram) to the ground at G203. The blue line is the path from the blower motor to the switch through the resistors for the other blower switch positions (arrows are backwards) to the same ground.

Note that if the blower is working at the lower speeds, all the wiring is confirmed good except from splice S224 directly to the blower switch, which is only used at high speed. This is a black/tan #10 wire. Check this wire for continuity, and if the wire is good, you have a bad switch - not making the connection at high speed position.

jkelly16 12-08-2017 12:21 PM

Welcome to the Z from NC! Glad you joined, enjoy the site!

johnfunderwhite 12-11-2017 01:44 PM

Thanks
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by oldmarine (Post 36110)
I'm attaching a wiring diagram from the service manual for the heater blower motor and the resistor. The red line shows the path from the ignition switch to the blower through the blower switch (#1 position on diagram) to the ground at G203. The blue line is the path from the blower motor to the switch through the resistors for the other blower switch positions (arrows are backwards) to the same ground.

Note that if the blower is working at the lower speeds, all the wiring is confirmed good except from splice S224 directly to the blower switch, which is only used at high speed. This is a black/tan #10 wire. Check this wire for continuity, and if the wire is good, you have a bad switch - not making the connection at high speed position.

Thanks a bunch fellow jarhead! I will look into that this weekend. I have a Clymer manual for this truck, is that diagram in there that you know of?

johnfunderwhite 12-11-2017 01:54 PM

Thanks
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by jkelly16 (Post 36113)
Welcome to the Z from NC! Glad you joined, enjoy the site!

Thanks for the welcome! I spent a lot of time in N.C. at Camp Lejune. I like your Challenger, I once owned a 70 R/T with a Hemi. Biggest mistake I ever made selling it. Thanks again.

oldmarine 12-11-2017 08:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by johnfunderwhite (Post 36123)
Thanks a bunch fellow jarhead! I will look into that this weekend. I have a Clymer manual for this truck, is that diagram in there that you know of?

I don't know what's in the Clymer manual. The screen shot I included earlier was from the factory service manual for the 2000 Dakota, but like I said, I think it would be very much the same for the 1997.

oldmarine 01-10-2018 04:04 PM

Quote from a different thread:

Hey Buddy. This is John Funderwhite again.(luvmy04). Over the holiday time off I got to look into this heater motor thing. (motor will not run on high) Checked every thing you suggested. Everything checks good. Power from ignition switch, continuity from heater switch to resistor. I mean every thing. Took motor out an applied 12VDC. runs great. when you plug it back in to the system runs on high, but slower than the slow speed. tried a new resistor, nothing. Had the switch apart, not just this time either. Can't find any fault there. wiring diagram is confusing. It seems they are running power to the fan directly ,but regulated by resistor. With switch in high position should power be going through large brown, and tan wire to resistor, and then motor? hope you can help. This is really pissing me off.

Response:

When the switch is in the high position (position #1 on the wiring diagram), the power does not go to the resistor at all. It goes through pin 10 on the heater control box, via the black/tan wire (maybe brown/tan on yours?) directly to the splice (S224) where it joins the black/tan wire from the resistor to the blower motor. It bypasses the resistor completely. Only when the switch is in positions 2, 3, or 4 on the diagram is the power routed through the resistor, coming out at the black/brown wire to go to the blower motor.

You need to check to see if you have power at pin 10 when the switch is in the high position. If not, the switch should be replaced. If there is 12v at pin 10, follow the wiring to the C200 connector, which I suspect is the connector close to the blower resistor. With the resistor disconnected, you should have 12v at the heavier black/tan wire on the half of the connector not going to the resistor (with the switch on high). If not, there is a break in the wiring somewhere.

johnfunderwhite 01-10-2018 08:31 PM

The maintenance book I have (Haynes) does not show what pin 10 is splice 224, nor c200 connector. If I get time again, I will try this. Thank you once again Jarhead for the quick response , and help.

oldmarine 01-10-2018 10:48 PM

Check the wiring diagram attached to my first response on this thread. The pin numbers, connector numbers, and splice numbers are referenced to that.

Semper Fi

johnfunderwhite 01-11-2018 10:36 AM

Thanks again, will do.


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