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Driveline Transmissions, Differentials, Axles, Bearings, etc. This forum covers the entire driveline from the Transmission to the wheel bearings!

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  #1  
Old 02-16-2012, 12:38 AM
tommad tommad is offline
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Default 03 transmission problem

hello there i have a 03 dakota 3.9l my check engine light is on i know the code but im not going to put the code up every where i go and say the code number someone tells me what it is for after iv said that i know what it is so yea no sh** sherlock instead im just going to say what it is doing. It seems that when the transmission warms up it stops shifting so all i have is 3rd gear i can drop the shiftier down to 2nd and it will go into 2nd but to get it into 1st i have to but it in N then throw it down quickly if i get on the freeway before it stops working my trans will shift fine some times i can make it all the way home and it will shift fine sometimes when i get off the freeway and come to a complete stop it will go out or if i get slowed down alot it will go out it does different things all the time some times the trans will work all week the the check engine light will turn off i don't get my hopes up i know that it will screw up again the trans was rebuilt at 70,000 miles yep i never made it to 100,000 miles still don't have that much yet about 11,000 miles later is when all this problem has started no wounder they came out with there life time warranty too bad i will never buy one again
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Old 02-16-2012, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by tommad View Post
hello there i have a 03 dakota 3.9l my check engine light is on i know the code but im not going to put the code up every where i go and say the code number someone tells me what it is for after iv said that i know what it is so yea no sh** sherlock instead im just going to say what it is doing. It seems that when the transmission warms up it stops shifting so all i have is 3rd gear i can drop the shiftier down to 2nd and it will go into 2nd but to get it into 1st i have to but it in N then throw it down quickly if i get on the freeway before it stops working my trans will shift fine some times i can make it all the way home and it will shift fine sometimes when i get off the freeway and come to a complete stop it will go out or if i get slowed down alot it will go out it does different things all the time some times the trans will work all week the the check engine light will turn off i don't get my hopes up i know that it will screw up again the trans was rebuilt at 70,000 miles yep i never made it to 100,000 miles still don't have that much yet about 11,000 miles later is when all this problem has started no wounder they came out with there life time warranty too bad i will never buy one again
Ouch! You need to take that monster paragraph with all that emotion and
come up with some point form if you want us to comment on your problem.

1. What is it doing?
2. What is it NOT doing?
3. When does it malfunction?
4. Why was it rebuilt at 70,000 miles (seems premature)
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:01 AM
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lol
1) not shifting stays in 3rd gear
2) shifting like it should
3) it seems like it does it when the trans warms up but some times it will work for a week sometimes it don't its a electrical problem code says pcw malfunction-no power going to the Governor switch that and the transducer have been replaced
4) dodge screwed up and put crappy transmissions very well know problem where the plainatery gear fails and breaks so you loose all forward gears happened to me on the freeway this other problem that im having is also well known but i never found the problem and it seems like no one can find out what it is every one i came across just replaces the whole trans i hope that helps
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Old 02-16-2012, 03:47 AM
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Originally Posted by tommad View Post
lol
1) not shifting stays in 3rd gear
I would assume it shifts 1-2 and 2-3 and downshifts back down to 1.

If it is staying in 3rd gear and not going to 0/D, then there could be a few
things to prevent that:

1. O/D switch in OFF
1a. Fluid level low?
2. Overdrive circuit fuse blown
3. O/D switch wire issue
4. Distance or coolant sensor malfunction
5. TPS malfunction (test TPS sensor)
6. Neutral sense to PCM wire issue
7. PCM Malfunction
8. Overdrive solenoid malfunction (replace solenoid)
9. Solenoid feed orfice in valve body blocked
10. Overdrive clutch failure
11. Hydraulic pressure too low (pressure test transmission at test port)
12. Valve in valve body stuck or sticking
13. Overdrive piston seal failng
14. O/D check valve or orfice problem
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:44 AM
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no it just stays in 3rd i can manually shift into 2nd but to get it into first i have to put it in N then down to 1st iv changed out the tps swaped out the pcm that didnt work so i put the other one back in this has been a ongoing investigation for about 7 months the last thing for me to change out is the speed senssor i will give you the trouble code when i get back home from work today
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Last edited by tommad; 02-16-2012 at 11:50 AM.
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Old 02-16-2012, 01:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommad View Post
no it just stays in 3rd i can manually shift into 2nd but to get it into first i have to put it in N then down to 1st iv changed out the tps swaped out the pcm that didnt work so i put the other one back in this has been a ongoing investigation for about 7 months the last thing for me to change out is the speed senssor i will give you the trouble code when i get back home from work today
You first need to know a bit about how the 46RE Chrysler transmission works.

While there is a hydraulic pump inside to pressurize the valve body for all the
pressure activated shift valves, it is also an electronically controlled automatic.

Normally (if everything is working correctly) the PCM collects data from:
TPS (throttle position)
Pressure sensor (this is the governor valve inside the valve body)
TSS (transmission o/p shaft speed sensor)
Temperature sensor.

All of these play an important part in automatic shifting where the PCM'
"learns your driving habits", stores the sensor data in its shift algorithm
mapping and performs smooth shifts for you.

If you are getting "hard shifts" or it's not shifting correctly, something is
wrong obviously and you need to find out by proper diagnostics of the
transmission, not just throwing in parts willy/nilly and hoping for the best.

The Chrysler 4 speed automatic is a very complicated part and next to
the engine, it is the most complicated component in the truck.

Just to give you an idea what's inside besides two planetary gear sets..

Front clutch, Front band, (front planetary set)

Rear clutch, Rear band (rear planetary set)

and an OVERRUNNING CLUTCH.

On the overdrive unit, there are more clutches..
Overdrive clutch, direct clutch and overrunning clutch

All of these clutches require enough hydraulic pressure from the appropriate
shift valves in the valve body. Depending on what gear you are in
(manual selection or auto) appropriate shift valves will operate to allow
fluid into passages in the valve body to operate the above clutches and
in kickdown mode..the front or rear bands on the planetary sets.

While the operation is more complex in practice than the simplistic explanation
above, it gives you an idea that for things to shift smoothly , the fluid
pressure has to be there, the sensors all have to work correctly and
the valves themselves have to work freely and not stick due to varnish
buildup inside the valve body.

I don't know the past history of your automatic, but it seems that there
is a fundamental problem with it.

On the Chrysler 46RE there is a hydraulic pressure test port on the driver's
side that a transmission shop can hook up a fluid pressure guage capable
of reading the pump pressure at the various transmission rpms and gears.
This is done usually with the truck rear differential on a jack, so the wheels
can turn in D and somebody reads the pressure at idle, and a certain rpms.
In the Chrysler shop manual for the year of the truck, there is a detailed
explanation of how the transmission works, troubleshooting and pressure
test values.
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:16 PM
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yea all the parts i put on was told to me by a trans shop and not just one but a few but i will take it in and ask for a pressure test to see what the outcome is it would be a start.....again
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Old 02-17-2012, 02:58 PM
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ok the code that comes up is p0748 and every thing you listed above has been replaced
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Old 02-17-2012, 03:31 PM
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carverman carverman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tommad View Post
ok the code that comes up is p0748 and every thing you listed above has been replaced
P0748 is Governor pressure solenoid control/Transmission relay circuits
The explanation is that "the current state of the solenoid output port is
different than what expected".


So it would seem to me that your shift problems are related to something inside the
valve body itself. The governor pressure solenoid is controlled by the PCM to
facilitate shifting at the correct pressure..which is detected by the governor pressure
sensor which sends a signal to the PCM. One is obviously at fault, but I don't
know from the code which one. The solenoid and pressure sensor are inside the valve
body, so the pan has to come off to get at them. Perhaps the solenoid is sticking or
malfunction or perhaps the pressure sensor is giving a false reading..either one will
cause erratic shifting. The manual gear selection does NOT use the solenoid or the
sensor..only automatic shifting.

I don't think you have a lot of options available except to remove the pan and
replace BOTH the solenoid and the sensor..because it's costly to have to do it
again if you happen to replace the wrong one the first time.

HOWEVER
Check the connections first though at the transmission to make sure that the
control connector (down where it connects to the transmission) is tight and the pins don't have any corrosion on them.
AND the transmission relay in the PDC IS REPLACED FIRST, as the +12volts to the solenoids (variable force solenoid (governor pressure),3-4 shift solenoid and TCC solenoid are fed from the contacts of the TRANS RELAY.

Replacing the relay on spec is very cheap troubleshooing of your transmission problem.

The coil of the TRANS RELAY IS CONTROLLED BY THE PCM DIRECTLY.

The low sides of the 3 solenoids (ie: the ground side) is controlled by the PCM individually.

Hope this helps.
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Last edited by carverman; 02-17-2012 at 03:48 PM.
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:24 PM
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here is a stupid thought i replaced both already the governor and the transducer witch is what you said above but when i did do it i realized that the plug inside was wet with trans fluid and i just thought of it just now is it ok for that to be like that or do you think that the pig tail should be replaced because its not sealed correctly other then that iv checked all the connections in the past cleaned them all out with electric cleaner spray and there is power getting down to the trans
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