88 dakota U Joint replacement - DODGE DAKOTA FORUM - FORUM AND OWNERS CLUB!
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Driveline Transmissions, Differentials, Axles, Bearings, etc. This forum covers the entire driveline from the Transmission to the wheel bearings!

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  #1  
Old 03-25-2016, 01:16 PM
1stgodman 1stgodman is offline
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Default 88 dakota U Joint replacement

So I've just started to notice a clicking noise coming from behind the cab and under the truck while driving. I had a friend stand outside of the truck as I drove it anddwas able to confirm that it is coming from the rear axel.

I've decides that if I'm going to replace one U joint I may as well replace them both.

I know how to drop the axel myself and I belive that I'll be able to replace the U Joints without too much trouble. I know they can be difficult to remove especially if rust is an issue which it likely will be, thank god for PB blaster and WD-40.

I'm wanting to know what kind of U Joint to use so I wont have to revisit this repair for as long as possible as well as how to identify the 2 joint from the 3 joint. My assumption it that one is for 4 wheel drive and one is for 2wd; I have a 2wd. I've so far seen duralast part num. 2-4800DL & 14.99 for the 3 joint shaft and 2-4900FL & 10.99 for the 2 joint shaft as well as MOOG super strength part num. 265 & 19.99 for the 2 joint shaft and 270 & 24.99 for the 3 joint shaft. I'd also like to know if there has been any positive success with different kind of grease, I'm thinking synthetic.

Price is no object I just want some advice on what kind of u joint to use for maximum longevity and some installation adivice to see the best results. I have someone to assist me if I need it.

Thank you for reading.
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  #2  
Old 03-25-2016, 08:50 PM
1stgodman 1stgodman is offline
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I'm starting to think it may not be a u joint. I tested for movement in the joints by putting the vehicle in nuetral and moved the driveshaft back and forth and the u jointa were as solid as can be. However the slip yoke did slightly move back and forth in the transmission. It was a very slight movement but did so freely. There is a pretty big clunknin the tranny when i switch from park to drive or drive to reverse. I've read that a bad u joint can cause this so can a bad yoke cause this as well? I was hoping it wouldnt be a yoke. It's gonna run about $150 vs 60 for the u joints.

What do you guys think?
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  #3  
Old 03-26-2016, 06:24 AM
RalphP RalphP is offline
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Do the U-joints first, and while the driveshaft's out, examine the yoke.

It may not be the yoke, but the transmission itself.

Of course, on my 1991 Cougar, the problem was that the transmission mount was now a 2-part mount ... New on left, old on right.

I'd check the transmission mount also.


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Old 03-26-2016, 07:06 PM
1stgodman 1stgodman is offline
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I almost got all the needle bearings in but the last one wiuld NOT go in. Somehow there was a gap between it and the hole in the driveshaft it goes in. After several failed attemptes to get the thing in there, wiggleing it around and gently tapping it hoping it will by chance seat itself, using a C clamp and applying well over 200 ibs ft of torque, using a different needle bearing, so on and so forth the bearing finally cracked.

I'm begining to think that somehow that hole got warped. Strange because it never toutched the ground. I'm gonna try and get a refund on that u joint and take a much closer look at the driveshaft hole, it looks ok visually but i guess there could be a small nick in the hole that my have occured while removing the old needle bearings.
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:10 PM
1stgodman 1stgodman is offline
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The old needles in the bearings were literallu disintegrated. In a few of the bearings nothing but black sut came out.
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Old 03-26-2016, 07:35 PM
1stgodman 1stgodman is offline
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Well, figured out the problem. As i was trying to drive the needle bearing in that wouldnt go in the needle bearing on the other side dug into its hole in the driveshaft chalking it in place. I sanded out the ring it made, insured it was perfectly inlined with the hole and attemped to remove it only for the bearing to dig itself a new groove. I'm worried that if this happens again there will be too large of a gap between the driveshaft hole and the needle bearing. I'm afraid there is already too much space in between them. I'm really fearing thay I may need a new driveshaft at this point.
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Old 03-27-2016, 01:01 PM
1stgodman 1stgodman is offline
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It doesnt wanna come out without digging itself a new groove on every attempt I make. I have never had this problem before but thats the way its gonna be. I cannot take it out because of this. I tried cutting it off but that metal is extremely hard. I'm just gonna save myself the hours of labor this is gonna take and pull a driveshaft from the junk yard.
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Old 03-27-2016, 04:49 PM
1stgodman 1stgodman is offline
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I'm appologize for continually commenting the obsticles I'm coning across with this but I'm just trying to keep you guys informed and hopefully help out anyone who is having similar troubles.

I managed to get the UJoint off. I had to smack the stuck needle bearing until it shattered to pieces. I was extra carful the secound time around and while installing the replacement of the replacement U Joint I supported the opposite side of the u joint with a 2x6, put motor oil in the walls of the holes, and tapped the needle bearing in with a mallet vs a hammer and once it was in I put in the snap ring then I repeated the same process with the other sides. I had one time when I tried to drive a bearing in it actually came out even though it was almost all the way in. I got a C clamp and pressed it in place when that happened.
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Old 06-28-2017, 12:45 AM
Ken E. Ken E. is offline
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Thanks for you continued posting as you went through this effort. I too have noise that sounds like drive shaft but I have not started the effort (hopefully in the next couple weeks). When I do I will also post often and not expect answers but might be able to communicate info for another owner. Thanks again!
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