a/C NOT WORKING THECLUTCH IS NOT ENGAGING - DODGE DAKOTA FORUM - FORUM AND OWNERS CLUB!
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  #1  
Old 03-04-2017, 06:35 PM
RBG RBG is offline
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Default a/C NOT WORKING THECLUTCH IS NOT ENGAGING

Here's the story..nada from the a/c..I checked power to the plug in the engine compartment and I have power at the firewall/female side, then checked power past the plug and it still good. But At the point where the power wire splits into three wires. Splits into two legs and then one leg is split again Note: that doesn't look factory to me..but never had a Dodge before. One of the second split legs has a resister in it past this resistor I have no power!

So my questions:

1. Is that a factory setup... power wire split into three leads one with a diode in it all going into or attached to the compressor.

2 Should there be a ddiode on one of the leads?

3. If that resistor is factory, can I jump past the diode to see if the clutch will then come on..without damaging something else?



This is very important I live in AZ so this will be a big deal very soon!!!:>(
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Last edited by RBG; 03-04-2017 at 09:00 PM.
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  #2  
Old 03-04-2017, 08:45 PM
RalphP RalphP is offline
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Ahem.

That's not a resistor, that's a diode.

One side will be at 12V, one will be at ground; the one with the band should be at 12V.

It's there to dump the inductive spike generated when the clutch releases so that it won't blow electronics upstream.

But that arrangement is NOT factory.

The side with the band is what's switched on these usually; or rather, 12V is switched.

So that side should go down to the compressor clutch (BTW, not to the COMPRESSOR itself; that's silly, there's nothing electrical in the compressor. The clutch, OTOH, is electrically operated.); the other side should come up from the clutch, or go to ground.

But again, that's not the factory setup.

RwP
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Old 03-04-2017, 08:57 PM
RBG RBG is offline
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Default So I am confused..electrical not my strong suit

Are yoiu saying I need to cut the legs and reverse them. Any chance you can draw it as it is labeled wires 1,2,3 and then draw it as it should be??

Or can someone just draw it how it should be..given there is only one wire with power coming from the connector from the fire wall. right now the wire that is not split seems to be going into the back of the clutch and the split wire starts out with the diode then splits one side looks like it's attached to the compressor case as a ground and the other leg of it goes into the back of the clutch into the same place as the non split wire.

I'll try to mock up a pic if that's all not clear.
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Last edited by RBG; 03-04-2017 at 09:23 PM.
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Old 03-05-2017, 02:04 AM
RalphP RalphP is offline
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Umm ... if the bar end of the diode is towards the 12V source, then don't.

It does sound, from your description, that yes, it's serving as a dump diode, and if so, it's wired right from your description.

If you're getting 12V at that side, and 0V at the other, then it should be supplying the voltage; to verify, you may need to unplug the coil connector and see what's happening there.

RwP
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Old 03-05-2017, 02:06 AM
RalphP RalphP is offline
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Let me add - no, that design isn't factory; there's not a diode sitting out like that.

If it has one, it's usually either in the plug, or in the coil itself.

THAT layout isn't factory, no; if you want to restore to factory, remove the diode, and clean up both wires. As is, though, if you can insulate the ends, it'll be OK as is.

RwP
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Old 03-05-2017, 05:14 PM
RBG RBG is offline
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I did the direct jump, battery to compressor wire..no click!! But there might not be any Freon in the system..haven't checked/tried to fill it yet.

Should there be a click even if the system has no Freon??

No click equals a new clutch???
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Old 03-06-2017, 04:28 PM
RalphP RalphP is offline
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Before going to a new clutch - I'd try using a multimeter and checking the resistance of the clutch.

Also, before I did much else, I'd grab a copy of the factory service manual; they can be had on Ebay cheap enough, and at least one of the Dakota forums has several for download.

Using http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...manual&_sop=15 , PDF copies can be had for as little as $8.

The major thing to check is, how is the OTHER side, the wire that connects to the compressor for the return? If there's a fault in the return side (like you didn't think to reconnect the negative terminal to the battery *grins* {it happens!}) then you STILL won't get a click.

RwP
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