Dakota Forumz banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
New computer, fuel pump, fuses. Auto. Stopped at stop light, stalled, then started, but really rough, like missing or something, acted like it would stall if pressing on gas pedal too hard. Got home will not start. Thought out of gas so, so tried starter spray, no effect, no flame, not getting spark.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Coil maybe. Possibly throttle position sensor. I'm trying to diagnose very similar problems with mine. I hit a pothole early last week and I've had problems with it downshifting and if I stop, it dies and won't restart for about 15 minutes. In my particular case, it's not the coil, as I've just bought and installed one with no difference. I'm going with throttle position sensor next when I return the coil back to Autozone. Why I suggested a coil is that if the casing is cracked, it does not seal and can allow moisture inside. It can overheat and cause timing problems, including stalling and refusal to start. I've not had much help on this particular issue on this forum, so I figured I would lend some info.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Shoot, this sounds like a problem I'm having. I had code 24, TPS out of range, changed that out, reset the computer, still nothing. Brand new coil and dist cap, battery too, but the spark is still orange. That's a good question, when you check the spark is it blue or orange? Orange is weak, and could mean a lot of things, TPS, CPS, computer, so on. I've been chasing it for weeks, still can't find it. Good luck!

I dropped it off at a shop nearby and they've looked at it for a week with no results yet. I will let you know when I hear something from them!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
44 Posts
Not sure if it's even remotely the same problem but I had what sounds like the same thing happen to me in my '94 toyota and it was because the drive shaft U-bolts hadn't ever been greased. I kept running the truck in that shape and it eventually blasted off lol! passed me right up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I'm having simular problem with 93 5.2 c hanged the TPS ,Idle Control Motor , Map Sensor,O2 sensor, coil,dist cap and plug wires, Computer, all vacume hoses, cam sensor heat charge air sensor I'm totally stumped and have alot less money. Carried to 2 shops and they can't find it but wrecker driver managed to find me 3 times for past couple months so if anyone comes up with solution's or ideas please let me know
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
22 Posts
Here is where I am at:

Shop put new battery cable ends on, it drove home perfectly fine. Water pump pulley was leaking so I took care of that, the stalling was back... Grrrrr.... Since then, I've tried several things. New computer, CKS, coil, dist cap, TPS, plenty of work done since. My TPS code is gone, stalling wasn't.

I adjusted the dist cap today to try and adjust the timing, it definitely changed some things, even to the point where we drove it around the block several times, stopped, reversed, and so on, worked beautifully. Warmed up great, idled great, with a nice, soft tone at the exhaust with no rumble or skip, the engine was smooth. 10 minutes later I went out to try it again, wouldn't start, still hasn't started 5 hours later. I'm seriously at a loss, no codes, new everything, what is going on?

Here is what I know, and I'm leaning this way, might just be me though. Ignition column is broken, so I have a button start. This may play a factor. Wires leading to the coil only get 5-6 volts when cranking, when it should be getting closer to 12v. Any answers on this one?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
Coil maybe. Possibly throttle position sensor. I'm trying to diagnose very similar problems with mine. I hit a pothole early last week and I've had problems with it downshifting and if I stop, it dies and won't restart for about 15 minutes. In my particular case, it's not the coil, as I've just bought and installed one with no difference. I'm going with throttle position sensor next when I return the coil back to Autozone. Why I suggested a coil is that if the casing is cracked, it does not seal and can allow moisture inside. It can overheat and cause timing problems, including stalling and refusal to start. I've not had much help on this particular issue on this forum, so I figured I would lend some info.
I'd leave the new coil on the truck, call it "maintenance"After 20+ years they do break down and crack, if the old one wasn't soon will. There are several things I replace "automatically" or at least be sure that I have on hand "just in case" on my trucks....
People these days want to do the minimum just to get them running "right now" and not give "what might happen later today or tomorrow" a 2nd thought until something happens. I drive my 25 year old truck literally "all over the country" and usually don't know til maybe the night before when Craigslist will have me on another wild goose chase. and I have no problem jumping into mine at any given time and just going.... and NOT have to worry about "if" I will make it there and back or not... I also have a 70 mile a day commute, so my miles pile up quick/ and I cannot remember the last time I was on the side of the road broke down!!! You don't have to pay yourself labor, and you can get parts at less than "list" that a shop would charge so it is cheap insurance. They are MACHINES, they need maintenance!!!! even if you bought something brand new tomorrow, it will eventually need work done to it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
Here is where I am at:

Shop put new battery cable ends on, it drove home perfectly fine. Water pump pulley was leaking so I took care of that, the stalling was back... Grrrrr.... Since then, I've tried several things. New computer, CKS, coil, dist cap, TPS, plenty of work done since. My TPS code is gone, stalling wasn't.

I adjusted the dist cap today to try and adjust the timing, it definitely changed some things, even to the point where we drove it around the block several times, stopped, reversed, and so on, worked beautifully. Warmed up great, idled great, with a nice, soft tone at the exhaust with no rumble or skip, the engine was smooth. 10 minutes later I went out to try it again, wouldn't start, still hasn't started 5 hours later. I'm seriously at a loss, no codes, new everything, what is going on?

Here is what I know, and I'm leaning this way, might just be me though. Ignition column is broken, so I have a button start. This may play a factor. Wires leading to the coil only get 5-6 volts when cranking, when it should be getting closer to 12v. Any answers on this one?
you cannot just "adjust the timing" on these like teh older trucks. You need a scanner that will allow you to "set sync" which is a fancy way of saying "adjusting timing".... that synchronizes the signal between cam sensor and crank sensor.
Water pump PULLEY Leaking? I do not think so... the water pump itself is what's bad, throwing antifreeze onto the pulley. a pulley cannot possibly leak!
have you checked the splice on the driver side fenderwell near the fuse box? May be corroded, popular issue with these trucks.... you have a bad connection somewhere for sure. also recheck the handiwork done when the push button was installed, to me it would have just been easier to just replace the ignition switch.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top