I am not a whiz with electricl either, & my FSM is for '03, and it looks as if the fuel pump circuitry has changed a couple of times from '97 to (at least as early as) '03. I am looking at a schematic in a Dakota Haynes '97 through '99 & they are showing one schematic for the fuel pump circuit that is '97 only. ('98 & '99 are different, I am not sure about '00, & then in '01 it changed again.)
You said you had verified good fuses (did you do that with an ohm meter?) so I take it that fuse 1 in the PDC is good, and fuse 10 also in the PDC are good?
As far as getting power through fuse 9, if I am understanding what I am looking at, when the key is turned to 'RUN' is when you should be getting power there, and the thing is, if you were not, you shouldn't even be able to crank your engine as power through the starter relay (to the starter) goes through fuse 9 as well as power to energize the fuel pump relay through the fuel pump control section of the PCM.
So are you able to crank the engine without putting a jumper to fuse9?
And are you also saying that without putting a jumper to fuse 9 you are not getting any action on your gauges?
No gauges/no fuel pump/no spark seems rather complex and over my head. I am kind of just looking at the fuel pump for now (which is undoubtely the wrong way to go about it) and from your PCM to your fuel pump relay (this would be fuel pump relay control) is a light blue/orange wire (#18) and from your FP relay a light green/black wire (#20)connects to a "joint connector #1" in your PDC and from that the light green/black wire (#20) connects to fuse #9. Maybe take an ohm meter and verify continuity from relay to PCM & relay to fuse #9?
Power actually goes through your FP relay to the FP itself from fuse #1. Dark green/black (#16) from FP to FP relay with a connector in between, red/white (#16) from FP relay to fuse #1 in the PDC with " joint connector #2" in between. maybe check for continuity between all those points as well?
Lastly, do you think it is possible that you got a bad PCM or that it was not programmed correctly for your Dakota?
In a separate post from this, I am going to scan the schematics that I am looking at & attempt to attch them so that we are looking at the same thing. I'll do it separate from this because I often screw things like that up on the computer & I don't want to lose what I've typed so far.
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You said you had verified good fuses (did you do that with an ohm meter?) so I take it that fuse 1 in the PDC is good, and fuse 10 also in the PDC are good?
As far as getting power through fuse 9, if I am understanding what I am looking at, when the key is turned to 'RUN' is when you should be getting power there, and the thing is, if you were not, you shouldn't even be able to crank your engine as power through the starter relay (to the starter) goes through fuse 9 as well as power to energize the fuel pump relay through the fuel pump control section of the PCM.
So are you able to crank the engine without putting a jumper to fuse9?
And are you also saying that without putting a jumper to fuse 9 you are not getting any action on your gauges?
No gauges/no fuel pump/no spark seems rather complex and over my head. I am kind of just looking at the fuel pump for now (which is undoubtely the wrong way to go about it) and from your PCM to your fuel pump relay (this would be fuel pump relay control) is a light blue/orange wire (#18) and from your FP relay a light green/black wire (#20)connects to a "joint connector #1" in your PDC and from that the light green/black wire (#20) connects to fuse #9. Maybe take an ohm meter and verify continuity from relay to PCM & relay to fuse #9?
Power actually goes through your FP relay to the FP itself from fuse #1. Dark green/black (#16) from FP to FP relay with a connector in between, red/white (#16) from FP relay to fuse #1 in the PDC with " joint connector #2" in between. maybe check for continuity between all those points as well?
Lastly, do you think it is possible that you got a bad PCM or that it was not programmed correctly for your Dakota?
In a separate post from this, I am going to scan the schematics that I am looking at & attempt to attch them so that we are looking at the same thing. I'll do it separate from this because I often screw things like that up on the computer & I don't want to lose what I've typed so far.
.