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1997 Dakota 3.9 5 speed No spark or fuel pump power

1122 Views 71 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  immattj
I have replaced pcm, crank sensor, relays and fuses, checked wires for dmage, even went as far as replacing coil wires. No spark and no power to fuel pump. Also, fuse 9 on in the panel on driver side of dash has no power as well. Hooked up a jumperwire to fuse 9 and my guages come back. Im not smart in this department. Mechanicalis more me. Help?
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I am not a whiz with electricl either, & my FSM is for '03, and it looks as if the fuel pump circuitry has changed a couple of times from '97 to (at least as early as) '03. I am looking at a schematic in a Dakota Haynes '97 through '99 & they are showing one schematic for the fuel pump circuit that is '97 only. ('98 & '99 are different, I am not sure about '00, & then in '01 it changed again.)

You said you had verified good fuses (did you do that with an ohm meter?) so I take it that fuse 1 in the PDC is good, and fuse 10 also in the PDC are good?

As far as getting power through fuse 9, if I am understanding what I am looking at, when the key is turned to 'RUN' is when you should be getting power there, and the thing is, if you were not, you shouldn't even be able to crank your engine as power through the starter relay (to the starter) goes through fuse 9 as well as power to energize the fuel pump relay through the fuel pump control section of the PCM.

So are you able to crank the engine without putting a jumper to fuse9?
And are you also saying that without putting a jumper to fuse 9 you are not getting any action on your gauges?

No gauges/no fuel pump/no spark seems rather complex and over my head. I am kind of just looking at the fuel pump for now (which is undoubtely the wrong way to go about it) and from your PCM to your fuel pump relay (this would be fuel pump relay control) is a light blue/orange wire (#18) and from your FP relay a light green/black wire (#20)connects to a "joint connector #1" in your PDC and from that the light green/black wire (#20) connects to fuse #9. Maybe take an ohm meter and verify continuity from relay to PCM & relay to fuse #9?

Power actually goes through your FP relay to the FP itself from fuse #1. Dark green/black (#16) from FP to FP relay with a connector in between, red/white (#16) from FP relay to fuse #1 in the PDC with " joint connector #2" in between. maybe check for continuity between all those points as well?

Lastly, do you think it is possible that you got a bad PCM or that it was not programmed correctly for your Dakota?

In a separate post from this, I am going to scan the schematics that I am looking at & attempt to attch them so that we are looking at the same thing. I'll do it separate from this because I often screw things like that up on the computer & I don't want to lose what I've typed so far.
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'97 Dakota engine control system fuel pump
and '97 through '99 Dakota Engine Starting System

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. . . the reason I asked about your replacement PCM being bad or not correctly programmed is because when I looked through the schematics, although I would not be surprised if I am missing something, the only thing that I can see (besides fuses) that the fuel pump would have in common with the output from the coil would be the PCM. Like I said, it wouldn't surprise me if I was missing something though. And what you said in your OP about the gauges totally throws me.
The pcm i bought was programmed to the vin of my truck. Ive done all power and continuity checks as well. Idk at this point
. . . I am just curious of a couple of things. Here are a couple of checks you could do first that would be easier than those continuity checks that I first suggested.

If you take your volt meter & backprobe the dark green/orange wire at your coil, you should read battery voltage when the key is turned to 'on'. You've only got about 2 seconds to read this voltage as the PCM should de-energise the ASD relay if it (the PCM) doesn't get a valid signal from the crank & cam position sensors, therefore you need to set your vm up where you can see it when you turn the key, or have an assistant help you.

If you are not getting voltsage for the first two seconds, that would suggest the ASD relay was the open in that part of your circuit.

If you are getting voltage, back probe the coil driver terminal (black/gray wire) with a test light & the test light should flash during cranking which would verify that it was getting a trigger signal from the PCM. If no trigger signal, that would point to the crank &/or cam position sensors (which I realize you've alrady replaced) & if those were good, it would then point to your PCM as the reason you were getting no output from your coil.

(When you said "no spark", I take it you checked from the coil, or did you only check at the plugs?)
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The pcm i bought was programmed to the vin of my truck. Ive done all power and continuity checks as well. Idk at this point
Well, again: if you have continuity between ALL those points I listed,
it is quite possible that I am missing something, but all I can see that everything has in common is the PCM. And the thing with the gauges & jumping to fuse #9???
I will note that my '03 is on the PCI bus & I believe the '97 is on the CCD bus and I do not know if &/or how the fuel pump & instrument cluster are integrated into that system. That is beyond what Haynes gets into, and as I said, the '03 FSM only covers the PCI bust. You are not getting a "NOBUS" on the odometer are you?

Try those checks I just posted in my last post.
As far as the PCM, where did you get it? If it was a bad reman you got, from what I understand it wouldn't be the first time that has happened, and also I have heard of PCMs being incorrctly flashed before.

This is all I can think of right now.
Good luck with this.
. . . and I suppose that it is theoretically possible that all of this (no spark/no fuel pump/no gauges unless jumping to fuse#9) are not related & therefore no common magic bullet.

Maybe try jumping battery voltage directly to the fuel pump to see if it is operational?
If not, maybe start looking at grounds?
. . . & then assuming there is no magic bullet in common, & you did check for v & trigger signal at your coil & you did not get trigger signal, besides your PCM (or ckp & cmp) being the culprit, it could also be the circuit between your cam & crank position sensors to &/or from your PCM.
(As well as providing a signal to the PCM, those sensors need recieve 5v from the PCM.)

So if you've not already ohmed them out, if you wish, I'll scan & attach the schematic which will identify which wires to check.
Well, again: if you have continuity between ALL those points I listed,
it is quite possible that I am missing something, but all I can see that everything has in common is the PCM. And the thing with the gauges & jumping to fuse #9???
I will note that my '03 is on the PCI bus & I believe the '97 is on the CCD bus and I do not know if &/or how the fuel pump & instrument cluster are integrated into that system. That is beyond what Haynes gets into, and as I said, the '03 FSM only covers the PCI bust. You are not getting a "NOBUS" on the odometer are you?

Try those checks I just posted in my last post.
As far as the PCM, where did you get it? If it was a bad reman you got, from what I understand it wouldn't be the first time that has happened, and also I have heard of PCMs being incorrctly flashed before.

This is all I can think of right now.
Good luck with this.
I got the pcm from flashmasters
I got the pcm from flashmasters
Well, I am not saying that the flashmasters did a bad job or that the PCM is your problem, but if you are looking for a common denominatier, that's the only one I am seeing in the schematics that I was looking at that I posted for you.

A couple of things to note on that:

Maybe there is something my untrained eye is missing.
And maybe the issues are unrelated.

Those schematics came from Haynes, not from MOPAR, & Haynes is not always completely reliable (but Haynes is all I have for '97).

In my handwritten notes (for my '03 which has a different circuit for the FP) I wrote that "if the PCM senses no signal from either the crank or cam pos sensor it will deenergize both the ASD AND fuel pump relays." But I am not sure where I got that from and I don't know for sure that this is accurate and I believe that I did mean it to apply to an '03. However, if it is true for a '97, that would be another pointer towards either your PCM, CMP, or CKP (or the CKP or CMP circuits) as common threads between signal to & output from coil, AND the fuel pump relay energizing.

And lastly, back to your reman PCM, back in '18 my Dak shot craps & I troubleshot it to the PCM. Before making a move I did some research on which way to go, & in the course of that, I watched a s-load of youtubes, & one youtube guy said he could throw remans further then he trusted them. He theorized that a lot of reman places just pulled them from bone yards & did some rudimentary checks & if they passed sold them as being remanufaured. I am not saying that I know that this is true or that this is what flashmasters did or that the PCM is even your problem (but I wouldn't rule it out). Anyhow, for that reason, I sent mine to a facility that did bench check & repair.

If it was me, right now, in your position, the next thing I would do (if I didn't want to farm it out to a shop) would be to check for v & trigger signal at the coil as described a couple of posts ago.

Good luck.
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. . . if you want to check the circuits between your crankshaft & camshaft position sensors and the PCM, these should be the wires to look for. Standard warning: this schematic came from Haynes.

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. . . I just remembered this thread


the OP was not getting voltage out of his coil and it did turn out to be his PCM. But that's not why I am pasting the link. Although the whole thread does make some interesting reading, if you scroll to reply #32 and reply #37, Arrow does describe in depth how he would make the checks to point at/or rule out the PCM. On mine, I actually did use the testlight method to determine that I was not getting a trigger signal from my PCM to my coil, but Arrow explains that even if the light does flash, the trigger signal may not be strong enough, and he describes how he would make the checks. I think if you wanted, you could start by using the testlight, as it is quick & easy, & as no flashing means no signal, & if you do get flashing, you could then use a meter & follow Arrow's directions to see how strong the signal is.
Im lost at this point
What have you actually checked so far?
Are you getting voltage & a trigger signal at your coil?
Have you jumped battery power directly to your fuel pump to make sure it does work?
I jumped power to the fuel pump through two contacts at the relay. It works.
I jumped power to the fuel pump through two contacts at the relay. It works.
Okay, did you check for battery voltage & a trigger signal at your coil?
My multimeter crapped out on me. Its been my luck here lately. Its been almost 4 months and im no closer to running. I literally am about to give up honestly. I cant afford a shop let alone anything else. Im sorry.
My multimeter crapped out on me. Its been my luck here lately. Its been almost 4 months and im no closer to running. I literally am about to give up honestly. I cant afford a shop let alone anything else. Im sorry.
No need to apologize to me. I am just trying to help by applying the best logic I know to the condition (the operative words are 'I know'). But seriously, knowing whether or not you are getting battery voltage at the coil for the first two seconds after turning key on, AND knowing whether you are getting atrigger signal when you crank the engine would tell you a lot.

Back to the PCM you changed: when you installed that reman, did you have the battery negative terminal disconnected at the time?
No need to apologize to me. I am just trying to help by applying the best logic I know to the condition (the operative words are 'I know'). But seriously, knowing whether or not you are getting battery voltage at the coil for the first two seconds after turning key on, AND knowing whether you are getting atrigger signal when you crank the engine would tell you a lot.

Back to the PCM you changed: when you installed that reman, did you have the battery negative terminal disconnected at the time?
Yes i had the battery fully disconnected
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