If you go back to post #6 of this thread, you will note that the test I described called out for checking for a trigger signal (from PCM) at the black/gray wire at the coil. And if the schematic in the '97 through '99 Dakota Haynes is correct, that wire would be coming from "7 C1" "ignition coil driver" of your PCM,.
1997 Dakota 3.9 5 speed No spark or fuel pump power
I have replaced pcm, crank sensor, relays and fuses, checked wires for dmage, even went as far as replacing coil wires. No spark and no power to fuel pump. Also, fuse 9 on in the panel on driver side of dash has no power as well. Hooked up a jumperwire to fuse 9 and my guages come back. Im not smart in this department. Mechanicalis more me. Help?
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Jump wired the asd relay, no luck. Had the wire to the distributorfrom coil pulled off to try the test light method, no light. Idk
. . . but it reads as if you said you already checked it????????????What wire comes from the pcm?
Which of those plugins is seven c oneIf you go back to post #6 of this thread, you will note that the test I described called out for checking for a trigger signal (from PCM) at the black/gray wire at the coil. And if the schematic in the '97 through '99 Dakota Haynes is correct, that wire would be coming from "7 C1" "ignition coil driver" of your PCM,.
I guess I shouldn't have even mentioned that because I don't know for sure & I was only telling you what the schematic says, but I am ASSUMING that one of the plugs would be designated C1 (& it might be labeled somewhaere?), & I am also ASSUMING that the other two plugs would be C2 & C3, & finally I am ASSUMING that the black/gray wire to the coil comes off pin #7 in the C1 plug. But as I just typed, I cannot tell you that I know that for sure as I've not yet ever had to get that deep in mine.Which of those plugins is seven c one
But the thing is: that doesn't matter (yet?) because you can backprobe that wire at the connector to the coil.
And didn't you say in that post that I quoted above that you had already put a test light on that wire and not observed flashing while cranking?
True that i did before i just checked for voltage since i replaced the wires from coil to the distribution center
?True that i did before i just checked for voltage since i replaced the wires from coil to the distribution center
I am afraid you are losing me. You are talking about the coil secondary wire to the distributor cap?
And not to be redundant, but you did say that you checked with "the test light method" and "no light", & I was assuming that you checked the black/gray wire as I described in post#6 to this thread and were checking to see if the test light flashed while cranking (again, as described in post #6 of your thread).Had the wire to the distributorfrom coil pulled off to try the test light method, no light. Idk
But whatever. To start fresh (again), my advice is to CAREFULLY check to see if you are getting voltage output from the coil . . .
and if not, then backprobe the black/gray wire AT THE COIL with a test light to check for a trigger signal WHILE CRANKING. If the light doesn't flash, you are not getting a trigger signal . . . & don't worry about pulling the secondary wire off of the distributor cap.
(I kind of feel as if I might be repeating myself. . . .)
. . . and you probably already know this, but just in case, I feel compelled to mention that the coil puts out literally thousands of volts from the business end. That's why I was stressing to check for output carefully.
Now the fuse box under the hood has no power but the battery has 12.54volts
Correct me if I am wrong, but doesn't the + battery cable go directly to a terminal stud in your PDC ("the fuse box under the hood")?Now the fuse box under the hood has no power but the battery has 12.54volts
I am not an electrician & I could be wrong, but it seems like the only way you could lose power to the PDC is if your + battery cable was loose or connection faulty either at the battery or at the connection in the PDC or you had lost your ground?
Check your connections: clean your negative battery post & the terminal connector on the cable & make sure it is tight & check it where it grounds (I think on the engine block).
I did all of that and still no power
Where are you putting your leads to check for power at the PDC?I did all of that and still no power
Neg battery and positive pdc
Well, if you truly have 12v at your battery, when you put your - voltmeter lead on the - battery post & you put your + lead on the positive terminal in the PDC where your + battery cable connects, as I see it you are essentially putting your leads on the battery posts themselves. If you are putting your leads at those two points & reading 0 volts, I don't see how that could happen unlless there is a problem with the cable from your battery to the PDC.Neg battery and positive pdc
Kinda that i was thinking. This is turning into a nightmare. I wish i could get someone to come look at this thing
Are you anywhere near Western Pa.?Kinda that i was thinking. This is turning into a nightmare. I wish i could get someone to come look at this thing
Anyway, put your multimeter on the ohm-meter function (looks like an upside down U) & check for continuity between the + battery post & the terminal stud in the PDC. You should measure very low resistance. If you read 0L that means an open & that would mean that the cable from + post on battery to terminal stud in PDC has a problem.
. . . just for the helluvit I went out & took some readings on my Dakota.
With key off I get 12.5 v at the battery from - to +
& from - post on battery to + in the PDC I lose maybe 0.01 v. Maybe not.
Checking continuity from + on battery to the + terminal stud in the PDC I am reading 0.7 ohms.
With key off I get 12.5 v at the battery from - to +
& from - post on battery to + in the PDC I lose maybe 0.01 v. Maybe not.
Checking continuity from + on battery to the + terminal stud in the PDC I am reading 0.7 ohms.
. . . assuming that the cable (from + on battery to terminal stud in PDC) does not ohm out good, maybe it's possible that it has had shaky continuity from the get-go & making a poor connection to your PDC all along? Maybe this is where your problems stem from?
I am kind of thinking not, but I just thought I'd throw that out there.
I am kind of thinking not, but I just thought I'd throw that out there.
Ill try that and let you know what i get. . . just for the helluvit I went out & took some readings on my Dakota.
With key off I get 12.5 v at the battery from - to +
& from - post on battery to + in the PDC I lose maybe 0.01 v. Maybe not.
Checking continuity from + on battery to the + terminal stud in the PDC I am reading 0.7 ohms.
When its not raining i will lol
I believe i found the issue. After running the test you told me to, i kept the multimeter neg connected, and traced the positive cable where its slightly exposed on the pdc to the nut and bolt that hold it down and the volts and ohms fluctuated from 12.54 to 1.23 and stayed in between. Bad connection seems to be the issue
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