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Hi fellow owners/fans. 1st post other than my intro. I have been pouring over the web for an answer to no avail. I hope I can get help here as my dealer has been even less than helpful "(you'll have to make an appt. and bring it in)" yeah sure pal.
Truck is a 2003 4.7 4x4 cab and half. Code 0132 (1/1 o2 sensor fault). So, I buy a new sensor,go to install it and can't seem to find the plug for it. After searching yanking and pulling harness, I determined that apparently the factory set the body on top of the harness trapping it against the transmission. Seems I have read of others with this issue too. After finally getting it free, I see that 1) it is barely long enough to reach the sensor.
2) both halves of the electrical connector are squashed beyond usabilty.(think a diagonal squish and permanently heat "melted")
3) nobody can I.D. the colors that I have on any of the (4) sensors.
Most of the documents floating the web don't seem to support an 2003 4.7

It is a 4 sensor application. The existing sensor has a white, a blue and two black wires. The harness has unuasual colors comparered to everything else as follows.

Brown/org of which I think is sensor signal
Black/white of which I think is heater ground
Black/Green of which I ASSUME to be shut down relay output.
Brown green Of which I think is heater control

Can someone help here to match my harness with the sensors colors?
All the scematics I find the only common color is that of the Blk/Wht for the ground. Most of my wires differ in color from what info that I find.

This is what I have for harness colors for the sensors:

1/1 Brn/Org Blk/Wht Blk/Grn Brn/Grn
1/2 Blu/Grn Tan/Wht Vio Blk/Wht
2/1 Brn/Grn Grn/Red Brn/Wht Blk/Wht
2/2 Blu/Grn Tan/Wht Brn/Wht Blk/Wht

As I stated, I just need the info to match up for sensor 1/1 as all others are intact.
How do I tell which of the two blacks on the sensor itself is which? or are they internally the same?What is Blue's function? What is White's fuction?

My intention is to solder a 5 inch pigtail to the inch and a half long harness the factory gives us to work with so I can hard wire the leads on further away from the cat. If I try to stick the male pins from the existing harness to the sensor plug, there isn't enough slack for them to stay in place,hence the need to extend them.

thanks for any help or links anyone can provide, MIKE.

P.S. Whoever designed this 1 sensor of the four should be dragged out back, shot and have their hands removed. What the heck were they thinking? Plus the sensor itself is a ballbuster to remove too!

P.P.S. Can a sensor be damaged from running it unplugged? It was for a while.
Thanks again, Mike
 

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(think a diagonal squish and permanently heat "melted")
3) nobody can I.D. the colors that I have on any of the (4) sensors.
Most of the documents floating the web don't seem to support an 2003 4.7

It is a 4 sensor application. The existing sensor has a white, a blue and two black wires. The harness has unuasual colors comparered to everything else as follows.


Brown/org of which I think is sensor signal

Black/white of which I think is heater ground

Black/Green of which I ASSUME to be shut down relay output.

Brown green Of which I think is heater control
Problem is that Chrysler keeps changing the colour codes on the sensor
wiring harness, so I can't give you my 1998 colours as they are different
from yours.

Can someone help here to match my harness with the sensors colors?
All the scematics I find the only common color is that of the Blk/Wht for the ground. Most of my wires differ in color from what info that I find.
Instead of agonizing over sensor wire colours..connect a voltmeter
to one of the 4 wires..if the ASD relay is supply B+, you should see at
least 10 volts if the sensor ground is connected.

This is what I have for harness colors for the sensors:

1/1 Brn/Org Blk/Wht Blk/Grn Brn/Grn
Logically it would make sensor that the heater B+ is either Brn/Org or Brn/Grn.
Here's how to find out..connect a digital voltmeter to either the Brn/Org
and see if you read +12v..that would be the heater voltage.
If you don't, then move the red lead on the digital voltmeter to the Brn/Grn
and see if you get +12 volt there. By process of elimination, one colour scheme will be the heater and the other will be the sensor signal.

To check the actual sensor signal for proper operation, you would need the
sensor hooked up and the engine warmed up (at least 15 minutes),
Connecting a digital voltmeter to the oxygen sensor, you should read
between 100 and 900 millivolts (0.1 to 0.9 volts).
high oxygen lean mixture = 0.1 volts (14.7:1(F-A-R)
low oxygen rich mixture = 0.9 volts (15:1 F-A-R)

If you want to do resistance readings...
oxygen sensor resistance is typically 4 to 7 ohms. (FULLY WARMED UP)

Sensor ground is BK/Tan on the C1 connector of the PCM pins 4 (blk/LB)
OR PINS 31/32 (bLK/TAN)

In my Haynes manual for a 4 sensor application (ie 5.9 L) the
Right bank upstream is:

DG/PK B+ from ASD
BK heater ground

OR/TN sensor signal
BK/LB goes off to joint connect #1 (and then I presume it finds it way to the
PCM (sensor ground).

1/2 Blu/Grn Tan/Wht Vio Blk/Wht
2/1 Brn/Grn Grn/Red Brn/Wht Blk/Wht
2/2 Blu/Grn Tan/Wht Brn/Wht Blk/Wht
Hmm..that is confusing to say the least.

As I stated, I just need the info to match up for sensor 1/1 as all others are intact.
How do I tell which of the two blacks on the sensor itself is which? or are they internally the same?What is Blue's function? What is White's fuction?
[/quote]

See above.

The sensor pins are:
1= B+ power from ASD relay
2= Heater Ground
3-Sensor ground
4-Sensor signal

My intention is to solder a 5 inch pigtail to the inch and a half long harness the factory gives us to work with so I can hard wire the leads on further away from the cat. If I try to stick the male pins from the existing harness to the sensor plug, there isn't enough slack for them to stay in place,hence the need to extend them.

thanks for any help or links anyone can provide, MIKE.

P.S. Whoever designed this 1 sensor of the four should be dragged out back, shot and have their hands removed. What the heck were they thinking? Plus the sensor itself is a ballbuster to remove too!
Agreed! :D I had similar issues with ordering aftermarket sensors (Denso)
from an online store. When it came to install both (upstream and downstream)
the connector index on the shell of the connector would not match up
on the downstream..even though both sensors are the same function.
Had to order a "downstream sensor" from a local auto parts place to replace
the downstream..now I have a spare "Upstream"..

This is totally ridiculous design on Chrysler's part, and the only thing I can
think of is that they do that on purpose to give their stealerships more
business, since they are about the only ones capable of deciphering
the confusion.

P.P.S. Can a sensor be damaged from running it unplugged? It was for a while.
Thanks again, Mike
No I don' think so. The heater has to be working for the sensor to work.
If the sensor doesn't warm up, the PCM just ignores it and goes into
"open loop" setting the FAR (fuel air ratio) to a richer mixture..and that
will result in a bit more gas consumption, but other than that, the sensor
shouldn't be damaged..just that you will get that check engine light steady.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Problem is that Chrysler keeps changing the colour codes on the sensor
wiring harness...............since they are about the only ones capable of deciphering
the confusion.
Not true . I gave up on even getting an answer from the "alleged technical savvy experts" after my visit to a third dealer. That is why I thought I would try here. Not only were they all cluless, One dealer tech actually argued with me for giving him "wrong colors" to look for in his "secret" documents.:rolleyes:

I followed your info that you provided, and my Dakota is up and running fine now after 20 minutes of your excellent diagnostic instruction.:):D

Caverman, YOU ROCK!
Thanks again, Mike

PS; Someone should take Caverman's step by step O2 diagnostics from this post and make a sticky for the troubleshooting forum.

Many Thanks again, Mike
 

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Not true . I gave up on even getting an answer from the "alleged technical savvy experts" after my visit to a third dealer. That is why I thought I would try here. Not only were they all cluless, One dealer tech actually argued with me for giving him "wrong colors" to look for in his "secret" documents.:rolleyes:

I followed your info that you provided, and my Dakota is up and running fine now after 20 minutes of your excellent diagnostic instruction.:):D

Caverman, YOU ROCK!
Thanks again, Mike

PS; Someone should take Caverman's step by step O2 diagnostics from this post and make a sticky for the troubleshooting forum.

Many Thanks again, Mike
I have a 2004 dodge dokota 4.7 trying to hard wire my o2 sensor ( Bosch) upstream witch has two whites and a black and grey . Harness has black/white , green/red , brown/white , brown/green .
 

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I have a 2004 dodge dokota 4.7 trying to hard wire my o2 sensor ( Bosch) upstream witch has two whites and a black and grey . Harness has black/white , green/red , brown/white , brown/green .
I have the same problem and same colors going to the 2/1 O2 sensor upstream . plug was cut I have no idea where the color codes for the plug can be found
 
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