Nice pickup I have the 2006 bought new great truck do your own maintenance. Looking to use it for another 10 years, great vehicle to work on, trucks are easy to work on.
2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7 Shaky Idle when warmed up (No CEL)
I just bought my 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7 couple months ago and I have been going through it to make it a little reliable truck when I need to haul stuff in the bed.
I am noticing somewhat of a rough idle after the truck comes up to warm temps, before that it idles fine. The truck doesn't throw any CEL's or stall, I can just feel it when sitting at a light (regardless if in drive or neutral). I have done the following since I got the truck few months ago.
The only thing that I am noticing is that on 02 Bank 1 Sensor 1, it looks very jaggedy while 02 on Bank 2 Sensor 1 looks smooth. Here is the picture.
Could I have a 02 Sensor that is going out?
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I am noticing somewhat of a rough idle after the truck comes up to warm temps, before that it idles fine. The truck doesn't throw any CEL's or stall, I can just feel it when sitting at a light (regardless if in drive or neutral). I have done the following since I got the truck few months ago.
- Changed Oil/Filter
- Flushed Coolant
- Replaced Sparkplugs (NGK V-Power Copper top, gapped to 0.040)
- Replaced Evap Solenoid
- Seafoam cleaning through intake.
- Fully cleaned throttlebody.
- Smoke Tested (No leaks detected)
- Replaced EGR Valve
The only thing that I am noticing is that on 02 Bank 1 Sensor 1, it looks very jaggedy while 02 on Bank 2 Sensor 1 looks smooth. Here is the picture.
Could I have a 02 Sensor that is going out?
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
You shouldn't compare graphs from two different scopes/scanners. In any case, both of those pictures show they are for Bank 1 Sensor 1 (which is why you shouldn't compare between two different tools).
What do your short term and long term fuel trims look like (both banks) at idle? If they are running rich, you may have an injector issue.
What do your short term and long term fuel trims look like (both banks) at idle? If they are running rich, you may have an injector issue.
I know that, the bottom graph is a demonstration what it should look like (kind of like a template). The top is very jagged, when I check my other Bank 2 Sensor 1, it's smooth.You shouldn't compare graphs from two different scopes/scanners. In any case, both of those pictures show they are for Bank 1 Sensor 1 (which is why you shouldn't compare between two different tools).
What do your short term and long term fuel trims look like (both banks) at idle? If they are running rich, you may have an injector issue.
I will check tomorrow and post.
You shouldn't compare graphs from two different scopes/scanners. In any case, both of those pictures show they are for Bank 1 Sensor 1 (which is why you shouldn't compare between two different tools).
What do your short term and long term fuel trims look like (both banks) at idle? If they are running rich, you may have an injector issue.
Today I have completely removed throttle body, cleaned it really well and replaced the seal. I have replaced the IAC. I have taken out all the spark plugs on bank 1 and coils and made sure the gap didn't change (0.40) and used electronic cleaner on connectors/coils.
The truck still idles rough, it drives just fine, has power and doesn't stall. The idle is bumpy and it's driving me nuts!
I purchased a injector pulser/cleaner, I am going to start with Bank 1 injectors and clean them to see if anything improves.
I was also wrong on the whole hot/cold rough idle, it just idles rough regardless of cold/hot engine (Almost as if it's getting worse and worse as days go by).
The truck still idles rough, it drives just fine, has power and doesn't stall. The idle is bumpy and it's driving me nuts!
I purchased a injector pulser/cleaner, I am going to start with Bank 1 injectors and clean them to see if anything improves.
I was also wrong on the whole hot/cold rough idle, it just idles rough regardless of cold/hot engine (Almost as if it's getting worse and worse as days go by).
What are your long-term fuel trims? I noticed you posted short-term but these re-learn trims and can be misleading. Long-term should remain steady and tell us if you have a lean or rich condition. I realize you don't have a CEL but let's make sure it isn't another problem.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Good luck and keep us posted.
I will get those today when I drive it home. I did leave the battery disconnected all night to reset any learning. This morning on first start up after battery being disconnected, it was ok. After 10~ mins of idle, it came back.What are your long-term fuel trims? I noticed you posted short-term but these re-learn trims and can be misleading. Long-term should remain steady and tell us if you have a lean or rich condition. I realize you don't have a CEL but let's make sure it isn't another problem.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Interesting data point; cars at startup, cold, are rich by design, at about the time it reaches normal operating temperature fuel normalizes to the famous 14.7:1 air to fuel ratio. If the truck seems fine cold, and rough idle returns at operating temperature, we very well may have a fuel trim issue. Assuming this is correct - the fuel trim readings cold and hot - might reveal in which direction to go. Keep us posted.
Could the timing be off a hair
I just checked long-term fuel trims and they are flat on both banks.Interesting data point; cars at startup, cold, are rich by design, at about the time it reaches normal operating temperature fuel normalizes to the famous 14.7:1 air to fuel ratio. If the truck seems fine cold, and rough idle returns at operating temperature, we very well may have a fuel trim issue. Assuming this is correct - the fuel trim readings cold and hot - might reveal in which direction to go. Keep us posted.
When I check the timing at idle, it just bounces between 10-18, it's super sparatic. Giving it any throttle or keeping the idle up keeps it steady. It's just super puzzling. Not sure what else to check besides maybe swapping one of the lower o2 sensors and putting it on Bank 1 upper since the 2 upstream sensors and the lower right are the same. Take the lower right and swap it into upper bank 1. It drives fine, it's just the idle that bothers me.
Probably when I first got it, I pressure washed the engine bay, maybe something got wet and corroded that didn't have a good seal.
If you pull the O2 sensor just replace it.
May as well while it’s out.
I have a 2000 Dakota Quad 4.7 Auto
Only 30,000 miles. That’s right 30,000!
On the way home from a 500 trip towing a boat I got a check engine code. Crank sensor!
Changed the sensor and it got rid of the problem.
I am telling you this because my truck also had a suspicious idle problem.
I did all of the diagnostics etc etc and nothing. No codes nothing.
Here’s the result now.
Since the failure resulting in the Crank sensor replacement the truck idles fine and the code has not returned.
There was no code and I had a bad idle. Nothing showed on anything. NOTHING!
So I drove it and lived with it until it finally showed itself.
Sometimes you just have to live with the Gremlin until it shows itself.
It took a year and about 6000 miles.
Things like this makes ya crazy.
Please let us know your final findings.
May as well while it’s out.
I have a 2000 Dakota Quad 4.7 Auto
Only 30,000 miles. That’s right 30,000!
On the way home from a 500 trip towing a boat I got a check engine code. Crank sensor!
Changed the sensor and it got rid of the problem.
I am telling you this because my truck also had a suspicious idle problem.
I did all of the diagnostics etc etc and nothing. No codes nothing.
Here’s the result now.
Since the failure resulting in the Crank sensor replacement the truck idles fine and the code has not returned.
There was no code and I had a bad idle. Nothing showed on anything. NOTHING!
So I drove it and lived with it until it finally showed itself.
Sometimes you just have to live with the Gremlin until it shows itself.
It took a year and about 6000 miles.
Things like this makes ya crazy.
Please let us know your final findings.
I just bought my 2005 Dodge Dakota 4.7 couple months ago and I have been going through it to make it a little reliable truck when I need to haul stuff in the bed.
I am noticing somewhat of a rough idle after the truck comes up to warm temps, before that it idles fine. The truck doesn't throw any CEL's or stall, I can just feel it when sitting at a light (regardless if in drive or neutral). I have done the following since I got the truck few months ago.
Other than the idle, truck seems to run fine at WOT and gets up to speed easy.
- Changed Oil/Filter
- Flushed Coolant
- Replaced Sparkplugs (NGK V-Power Copper top, gapped to 0.040)
- Replaced Evap Solenoid
- Seafoam cleaning through intake.
- Fully cleaned throttlebody.
- Smoke Tested (No leaks detected)
- Replaced EGR Valve
The only thing that I am noticing is that on 02 Bank 1 Sensor 1, it looks very jaggedy while 02 on Bank 2 Sensor 1 looks smooth. Here is the picture.
Could I have a 02 Sensor that is going out?
View attachment 4435
It could be an o2 sensor it could be the coolant sensors check to make sure the temp and the sensor match. With o2 sensors the dodges are sensitive I believe Mopar or ngk don't use the cheap knock offs.
I also have a 2005 Dakota SLT Quad cab 4.7L, and have the same issue from time to time, and when I do, I just replace the IAC sensor, The life time warranty comes in handy. It happens about once a year for me. Problem solved.
Replaced the upstream bank 1 o2 sensor with a denso, same issue. (Also was a pain in the rear to get out).
Took off all the connectors from the ECU and used electronic cleaner. The ground on the ECU was loose, fixed that.
Drove it, felt fine and then after a couple mins of sitting, bumpy idle came back.
I will say, replacing everything I have replaced so far... the truck gets up and goes, so I definitely made the truck run overall better (When I first got it, I was 100% certain my old v6 ranger had more power) but that is no longer true, it's barely keeping traction in 1st and 2nd.
So my journey continues on, I will take a look at the crank sensor and see how hard it's to replace and just replace it since I pretty much replaced 80% of sensors/solenoids so far.
I still need to clean the injectors, my new o-rings are going to show up on the weekend.
The good news is, I will have a peace of mind not guessing when the last owner replaced what, now I know at least what I have replaced so far.
Took off all the connectors from the ECU and used electronic cleaner. The ground on the ECU was loose, fixed that.
Drove it, felt fine and then after a couple mins of sitting, bumpy idle came back.
I will say, replacing everything I have replaced so far... the truck gets up and goes, so I definitely made the truck run overall better (When I first got it, I was 100% certain my old v6 ranger had more power) but that is no longer true, it's barely keeping traction in 1st and 2nd.
So my journey continues on, I will take a look at the crank sensor and see how hard it's to replace and just replace it since I pretty much replaced 80% of sensors/solenoids so far.
I still need to clean the injectors, my new o-rings are going to show up on the weekend.
The good news is, I will have a peace of mind not guessing when the last owner replaced what, now I know at least what I have replaced so far.
Does flat mean zero, or there abouts?I just checked long-term fuel trims and they are flat on both banks.
When I check the timing at idle, it just bounces between 10-18, it's super sparatic. Giving it any throttle or keeping the idle up keeps it steady. It's just super puzzling. Not sure what else to check besides maybe swapping one of the lower o2 sensors and putting it on Bank 1 upper since the 2 upstream sensors and the lower right are the same. Take the lower right and swap it into upper bank 1. It drives fine, it's just the idle that bothers me.
Yes, Zero.Does flat mean zero, or there abouts?
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
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