Dakota Forumz banner
1 - 20 of 169 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm building up my 96 Dakota pro street truck, swapping out the V6 to a 318 stroker 475 hp , need to change out the 10 bolt rear end with a 12 bolt rear end with disc brakes in the rear , what vehicles can I interchange with
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,633 Posts
I'm building up my 96 Dakota pro street truck, swapping out the V6 to a 318 stroker 475 hp , need to change out the 10 bolt rear end with a 12 bolt rear end with disc brakes in the rear , what vehicles can I interchange with
Depends on how good your fabrication skills are.

There are NO GM 12 bolt rear ends that bolt into a Dakota without fabrication.

And if you really mean "a 9.25 with disc brakes", consider you'll still have to do the shock mounts on a 2000-2003 Dakota/Durango rear axle with disc brakes; and it's 6 lug.

OTOH, you can find 8.25 disc brake conversion kits ( one that I found rated well online is Ram Man / Shop / MOPAR / DODGE 8.25" REAR DISC CONVERSION KIT (10.5" Drilled & Slotted Rotors) (therammaninc.com) ), swap to 1987-1990 5 lug rear axles, and build up your current rear axle and you're golden (no fabrication skills, just mechanical ability).

(BTW - the "10 bolt and 12 bolt" nomenclature is for a GM rear end; try calling it by the Mopar name, helps some when you go looking. 8.25 / 8.75 / 9.25 are the sizes, and 8.75 was never offered, being depreciated by the time the Dakota came out.)

The 8.25 is also called, for some ratios, a 8.375 or 8 3/8" rear end. They pick size by the diameter of the ring gear.

For the front, as I mentioned earlier, a 87-90 front rotor/hub combo will fit and work fine. If you have good fabrication skills, you may be able to remove the rotor from the combo (don't know, haven't tried), and machine out a Mustang rotor's center hub to fit.

DO use a high quality bearing set (I'm partial to Timken, prefer the German ones myself, but they're not the ONLY good game in town) and top line lube (again, I'm partial to the moly graphite lubes; YMMV depending on exactly what you find out on the track.)

For the rear end - again, I like rebuildable, but if it's going to be a drag truck, a locker may be your best bet. (Don't want a locker on the street, defeats the whole purpose of a differential).

You'll have to remove the ABS equipment, and also use a different proportioning valve, if you go disc in the back.

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
3223

Depends on how good your fabrication skills are.

There are NO GM 12 bolt rear ends that bolt into a Dakota without fabrication.

And if you really mean "a 9.25 with disc brakes", consider you'll still have to do the shock mounts on a 2000-2003 Dakota/Durango rear axle with disc brakes; and it's 6 lug.

OTOH, you can find 8.25 disc brake conversion kits ( one that I found rated well online is Ram Man / Shop / MOPAR / DODGE 8.25" REAR DISC CONVERSION KIT (10.5" Drilled & Slotted Rotors) (therammaninc.com) ), swap to 1987-1990 5 lug rear axles, and build up your current rear axle and you're golden (no fabrication skills, just mechanical ability).

(BTW - the "10 bolt and 12 bolt" nomenclature is for a GM rear end; try calling it by the Mopar name, helps some when you go looking. 8.25 / 8.75 / 9.25 are the sizes, and 8.75 was never offered, being depreciated by the time the Dakota came out.)

The 8.25 is also called, for some ratios, a 8.375 or 8 3/8" rear end. They pick size by the diameter of the ring gear.

For the front, as I mentioned earlier, a 87-90 front rotor/hub combo will fit and work fine. If you have good fabrication skills, you may be able to remove the rotor from the combo (don't know, haven't tried), and machine out a Mustang rotor's center hub to fit.

DO use a high quality bearing set (I'm partial to Timken, prefer the German ones myself, but they're not the ONLY good game in town) and top line lube (again, I'm partial to the moly graphite lubes; YMMV depending on exactly what you find out on the track.)

For the rear end - again, I like rebuildable, but if it's going to be a drag truck, a locker may be your best bet. (Don't want a locker on the street, defeats the whole purpose of a differential).

You'll have to remove the ABS equipment, and also use a different proportioning valve, if you go disc in the back.

RwP
Thanks, I'm at the very beginning of it , my good friend is a mechanic and built two drag cars already that pulled willy's on take off , got me thinking so I decided to go with it on my truck, I love driving it, next is replacing the whole suspension with profomance parts and dropping it 3 inches in back and 2 inches in front and going to stiffen it up to corner, the starter buying the new rear end , and I guess I will have to find a new transmission to bolt up the 318 stroker and I think I'm running a 2500 stall and a B&M shift kit in it , what transmission would you recommend for it to handle around 475 horsepower with a posi traction with 3.73 gears in s 22 bolt, I'm in my mid 50s and just want a hot rod lol and here is the blue paint I bought for my truck
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,633 Posts
Why are you stuck on GM rear ends? They aren't the ONLY good ones out there.

"posi" is a Pontiac trademark of the design of limited slip used in other GM differentials; you'll want a TrakLok (DANA design) or a SureGrip (Chrysler design) for a limited slip, not a positraction.

What proformance parts are you finding for a Dakota? Is it a drag truck, or a cornering truck? (Different requirements for suspension to do it properly).

Is it going to be street, or strip only? That makes a BIG difference in which transmission is the "best" one.

You are making a lot of decisions before the necessary decisions are being done. B&M may not make a shift kit for the optimal transmission. I'd look more for the output ("I want mid-9's for my 1/4 mile runs") than the exact parts list at this point.

Is it 2WD or 4WD? Again, the parts choices will vary quite a bit. (For a drag truck, I'd not do 4WD personally ... )

But I'd use a built 46RE/46RH for a street truck (overdrive and a lockup torque converter), or a built 727 for a drag truck (no need for OD or lockup on a 1/4 track!)

You CAN find A500/44RE/44RHs built up (or a A904) and get the slightly stiffer first gear; but the A518/46RE/46RH (or 727) is a beefier unit.

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I just had to put a new V6 in it 3 month age because I lost my oil pressure in my old motor setting at a light, but I decided that I wanted to build it up , but when I started calling around, one place I called was Jegs profomance and they said there was very little profomance Pat's for it so I called a few more places and that's when I decided to sell my new :6 that has less than 4000 miles on it and put a v8 in it , I really don't care of what brand name the part is as long as it works
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I live way out in the country and nothing but back roads with a fair amount of curves and some nice long straight stretches and it's fun to come out of a corner and get on it with no cops , that how I'm going to drive it plus I live by a small town to
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,633 Posts
The word is "performance", not "proformance". That's part of the confusion ... Proformance sounds like a brand of professional performance parts, a portmanteau if you will.

OK.

For street usage, my next question - are you going to stay factory EFI (hint: There ARE tuners that can let you tune more on a EFI system like the 1996 and up has, than there are ways to tune a carb system)? If so, I'd go 46RE for the transmission, but again, have it built up.

A 8.25 will hold up if built with good parts; that keeps you running a factory axle.

Using 87-90 rear axles and drums, or a 8.25" disc brake conversion, will let you run 5x4.5 wheels; if the center bore is big enough, Mustang wheels will fit (i.e., they're studcentric, not hubcentric, wheels.) The 87-90 front hub/rotor combo will also fit the same wheels (5x4.5). I personally am running some Jeep wheels on my 1988; fit a treat.

One advantage of the 46RE is that it was a factory offering; if kept with a 8.25 rear end, you can use factory length and size drive shafts.

Addco and Belltech sell anti-sway bars; one in the back and a beefier one in front will help keep it flatter. So will dropping it; but I'd be careful.

You may want to investigate using a 97+ control-arm-out setup to get the better ball joints.

For the rear, you may also want to consider getting a frame shop to re-arch your current springs, and rebuild them with PTFE (Dupont brand is Teflon) instead of rubber between the springs.

For the motor - 475HP is doable, barely, on the 5.2 . I'd really start with a 5.9 to give me more cubes (there's no replacement for displacement!) Hot Rod Magazine has done a couple of 500HP builds on 5.9s.

DO start with a Magnum block, so that the motor mounts fit factory!

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have the computer and it fuel injection now but my friend was talking about making it carburetor with no computer for the motor, which way would you suggest, the way I will drive it from take off to cruise around 70 to 80 and that would be low to mid range for response, right now I'm saving up for the whole suspension , so now the rear end, transmission, and motor design is just starting for that for the drivetrain to match up to get maximum performance out of it ,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,633 Posts
I'd go computer, with the factory ECU.

Contact Flyin' Ryan ( frptuning.com / Flyin' Ryan Performance ) and Marty (UTAWESOME PERFORMANCE - Home ) on tuning.

That allows you to keep the RE transmission, and a good tuner can even optimize that for you.

Factory issued ratios went from 3.55 to 3.92; 3.73 is available, but 3.92 may be better if you go larger than say a 30" tall tire on the truck. Mopar Replacement 68035568AA (summitracing.com)

The Dana TracLok LSD is available brand new ... Dana Spicer Drivetrain Products 75101X Spicer Drivetrain Products Differential Carriers | Summit Racing for just one possible source.

OTOH, a pump gas 455HP Magnum can be build easily enough ... Build Your Own 455HP Pump-Gas Magnum V8 For Around $4,000! (hotrod.com)

OTGH, you CAN go to a 5.7 Hemi if you wish; Holley even makes all the fabrication parts you'd need. 1987-96 Dodge Dakota Gen III Hemi Swap Components - Holley That MAY be a better way to go, especially if you can pick up a 6 or 8 speed auto to put behind that Hemi.

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I really appreciate your advice and help today , I live a hour noth of Little Rock , Arkansas those sites you sent me are they out of state for me , with the body parts and body supplies, and new new V6 that I have now plus putting AC back in it that blows at 34 degrees now and the new tires I have on it now I'm up to $9480 , but will be selling the new V6 that now just hit 3900 miles on it to put towards the new parts , you stay in touch and have a wonderful day buddy
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
147 Posts
There are some advertisements for Mopar small blocks. A 475 hp n/a stroker small block may not be to your liking for actual driving around. Those hp ratings are for the upper echelon of rpms. Running around with a cam of say 246-255 duration will get tiresome real quick. I think you'd be happier with a cam in the 224-236 range with a 2800 stall converter. It will be more of a streetable combo. Run a 10-1cr at least and go with a cam of 110-112 lsa.
It'll be more of a truck you can live with. HP isn't everything.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Hey , I decided to do a a 400 horsepower with a nice but more milder cam in it to enjoy more every day driving because it will be my every day driver , since I'm on S.S. income , I'm going to buy a rear car for it to rebuild the. A better size transmission to rebuild it and then buy a 318 long block to rebuild up , and replace all my suspension parts , then put it all in at one time , its going to take awhile on my income but that's the only way I can do it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,633 Posts
I'd go 360; "there's no replacement for displacement" and for those that scream "Turbo" and "Supercharge!" remember, you can do those to a 500ci Caddy motor as well as a lawnmower engine; starting at a higher level means that the same increase yields even more.

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,633 Posts
Or a GenIII Hemi and the Holley kits.

But yah, if you're on SS, that Holley kit may be a bit out of pocket.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
116 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
But I starting to have a hard time doing it though, my health is starting to get in the way for me I'm going on my 25th surgery in a month and there's another one after that and arthritis in my hands already had hand surgery for that , but I just want to build my truck up , but physically its getting harder for me then when I was younger lol , what would you say would be the best way and the reasonable price way I can do it , I know its going to still cost me , I'm doing as much by myself as I can
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,633 Posts
Not knowing what you can and can't do, and what you have handy, I don't know.

IF you have the space, and have or don't mind buying the engine stand, engine hoist, etc. - I'd take a good core, strip it, get a good machine shop to prep it, and build it up myself.

OTOH, if your fingers are too bad, you may have to pay to get it done.

Dunno what your actual situation is.

RwP
 
1 - 20 of 169 Posts
Top