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Discussion starter · #142 ·
When the transmission first went out I went to are local junkyard to get a used transmission but the bell housing had a bad 6 inch crack on it so they gave $250 credit to use at Watt's, so I was going to look for a factory steering wheel with those options on it to put I my truck, is there any veicals that will work to get one out of. And since the truck has been out of the shop it runs fantastic.
 
Only one I can suggest is a late 1st Gen.

The factory parts book shows 95/96 Dakota and RAMs both have the same wheel; that may help some.

Past that, maybe look at biting the bullet and doing something like a Ididit column to replace it, with a valid after market wheel.

(Note: Ididit does require changing to a dash mounted ignition switch; there may be better choices than that.)

RwP
 
Discussion starter · #144 ·
Ralph , remember back when you told me about what vehicle will fit the 5×4.5 lug pattern, Tuesday I'm going to a tire and rims shop to talk to the guy about a package rim and tire set for my 96 Dakota. He told me to look though wheel pro , but I not able to use the Dakota because it comes up as a 6 lug pattern, I'm not wanting a truck rim but more of a drag rim style, I wanted this style but they can't get it so I'm trying to find a rim of this kind of style but I'm not sure what to put in to get me a category of style rims like this to choose from, this gray truck is the the style I'm going with on mine , dropping it a little to this height.
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Discussion starter · #145 ·
Going with 10 wide rims on back and I'm guessing 8 wide on front, I'm not even close to being done with it , with motor , transmission and rear end upgrades and putting a decent turbo on it, building it to take to the track and run it every once in a while , my goal is up around 475 horsepower but I want the more agressive look rim style, I figured I should be up around the $20000 to $23000 mark when done, I'm at $12500 now but $10000 is all new drive train on it , brand new motor, transmission and rear end with posi now
 
Discussion starter · #146 ·
Because the guy that put the first transmission in kinked one of the transmission lines it fried the transmission just one day on the road so there are 2 transmission rebuilds and a new crate motor. so there's the $10100 of the $12000
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If they've got a big enough center bore (71.5mm minimum), and are lugnut centric not hubcentric, Mustang wheels will fit ( specifically 1964-1973, skip the 4 lug years, and pick back up 1994 and up to 2008 or newer). (Mustangs only needed a 70.3mm center bore; it's close, and may fit.)

Also, Jeeps of similar vintage as our Dakotas (again, the references turn up (1980 to 1998 almost anything, 2002-2007 Liberty, 1980-2006 Wranger, amongst other choices.)

Check out 5 X 4.5 Bolt Pattern Cross Reference and Wheel Sizes (roadkillcustoms.com) for the list I use - tell it 5x4.5 or 5x114.3, and see what's got at least a 71.5mm center bore. Those with close (Mustangs, for instance, are 70.3mm) might - MIGHT! - fit in aftermarket; if the manufacturer won't state the center bore size, you may have to trial fit it.

(With a big enough rubber hammer you can usually get the smaller Mustang wheel on; problem is when it's time to take it off.)

RwP
 
Discussion starter · #148 ·
Thanks, I thought it was a mustang but couldn't remember a 100% so what do you think about the style I'm going with on it , you remember the blue paint I have and changed all the dash lights to blue also , truck was a dark forest green originally
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I like that dark blue!

(Personally not so wild about blue lights for the dash, but eh, not my truck.)

That's with a blue LED added to the in-dash cup holder so I can see it at dark-30 AM while driving to put my drink or whatever in it :LOL:

RwP
 
Discussion starter · #150 ·
If you can't tell ,i.love the dark blue color, I called Jegs Performance and Summit Racing , and they both do not show any performance parts for the magnum 3.9 V6 , originally I was going to put a built 360 in it , but since the motor and transmission went out so I'm going to eventually pull the stock V6 out and build it up some to handle a turbo and the same with the transmission, and gave fun with it
 
Discussion starter · #152 ·
After a little over a week ago of getting the 2nd transmission rebuild done in just a month, last Saturday night I was out with a friend on the hwy and the U-Joint came out of the bracket that holds it in but one side was still in place but the other side the 2 bolts back out and the drive shaft came out and was bouncing off the ground, so I had it towed back to the transmission shop and found out today that the drive shaft was still in good shape not damaged so they ordered a new bracket and the 2 bolts with a new U-joint and making the mechanic pay for the repairs and also pay for the $164 towing bill , I should get it back out of the shop again for the 5th or 6th time total later today , I think in the last 4 1/2 months I only got to drive it 2 to 2 1/2 ,months total
 
I have again begun work on the 3.9 V6 engine. We are in the middle of a great big mess. I was sold pistons for which there were no rings for three months. Also bought a cam and kit for which not all parts were available for 5 months. As you mentioned performance parts are in short supply for the 3.9. I build N/A engines and have played with C/R as high as 16 to 1. Very important to control fuel and timing. Having adjusted advance curves and jetted carbs all my life, I now have to learn how to talk to the computer. With 100,000 plus miles on my truck, I will rebuild and install my driveshaft with new U joints and center support. Steve
 
Discussion starter · #155 ·
Spring time I'm pulling out the V6 and bore it 30 over with flat top pistons, head work and stronger head studs with a 460 lift and around a 236 duration compatishion crane cam my friend that's going to help me with it says it should go from stock 179 horsepower to around 350 to 375 with just the motor work, then going to put either a single turbo or twin turbo on it to bring up to around 500 to 575 horsepower, it's just a toy for me
 
You may do well to research your victim. I have spent my time figuring out what is both possible and practical. And tell me again how driving down the highway your drive shaft fell out! And the best part is it's not even hurt? I wish you luck with your project. It should be interesting. Steve
 
Discussion starter · #159 ·
Hey steve back at 26 years old I bought this red 80 trans am from a buy here pay herd for $2500 and after working on it for 5 years and $33000 later turned it to the fast 80 trans am, 5 inch minny tub with 18×12 on back and 18×10 in front with a 600 horsepower 383 stroker. with a built 700r4 with a stall converter and shift kit with a 12 bolt rear end with a posi and 3.73 gears, and I took a cluster out of a 71 trans am that went to 160 and had it buried a few times , the picture is outside my friend's dad's shop in northern Orlando around 27 years ago , 54 now
Car Tire Wheel Vehicle Motor vehicle
Jeans Tire Sleeve Wheel Gesture
 
Hey I don't know your name but that's OK. I noticed your interest in the 3.9 V6. I'm trying to think out of the box while coloring between the lines. I need a truck that will haul a 2000 lb trailer single axle no brakes. The big wheels and tires, four wheel disc, and 5 speed manual sold me. I'd like to stay with regular gas and improve performance to the ability of the system to support it. I understand the cost of playing with engines. Cost of my project just went up $500 heads shipping and tax.
Flash back I ran an automotive machine shop 25 years before retiring 21 years ago. I still go in and use machines as I need. We used to make custom drive shafts the new owner has since dropped the service. I have seen a few drive shafts that fell out. Do you get under your own stuff and look?
I in no way doubt your resolve or ability to get it done. I hope you keep good records and photos for us. It sounds like yours spends more time in the shop than on the road. I could not afford to pay someone to work on my truck. Regards Steve
 
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