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Hey there, I was wondering if anyone could give me a little input here. My blower was working just fine a few weeks ago but out of no where it quit completely. I checked the fuses under the dash and the fuse/relay box under the hood and that all checks out, I even followed the wires looking for a short or loose connection. My only guess is that its the resistor or the motor its self is dead. The resistor looks alright and nothing is melted or broken. However the wiring harness and the pins are pretty rusty. What is weird is usually if the resistor goes bad it will still work on High settings.

Will update with a picture or two soon.
So any advice that you could give me would be appreciated.
 

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You're on the right track. Notice the rusty, and burnt connections. The other end of this is the fan speed switch, the other place for problems. Keep in mind that 12VDC positive goes from the fuse panel to the motor. The other side of the motor, on it's way back to ground, goes through this resistor network. I ended up putting in a couple of switches and routed four different paths to ground to the resistor block. The fan switch on mine was shot, and is not available separately. The whole fan motor / heater control (with vacuum connections) is very hard to find, and expensive. Somewhere on this board I posted a wiring diagram. If I can find it, I'll post another answer with a link. BTW, if you have to change the motor, that's not hard, and not too expensive, about $45.
 

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Thanks, that diagram might be just what I need here soon. I dont think its the switch since when I change the direction for the blower (from floor to vent or defrost) I can hear the vaccuum lines adjusting pressures. I think I'm going to start with the wiring harness and the resistor then move to the motor if that doesn't work. Hopefully its not the switch then, otherwise I might need to do some junkyard crawling.
 

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I Glo Blue - the mechanical switch is a separate part of the control head from the vacuum switcher. I've got the vacuum switch out of the one on my 1988 now, so I could a) pull the vacuum lines and b) replace the lamps with LEDs.

RwP
 

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I Go Blu - let's not get confused. There are two different things you are referring to. Changing buttons/levers from heat to AC to defrost is a function done by vacuum, to servos and flaps. That action is not electrical. Yes, you will hear movement of these flaps when you do this and the engine is running. However, there is only one blower, and it is run by electricity. From the fusebox, through the ignition switch, to the motor, out the motor to the FAN SPEED SWITCH, then to a resistor point and then finally, to chassis ground. If the blower does not blow (and believe me, you will hear the roar of the electrical fan, especially at high speeds, when it works) then you have an electrical problem. The motor should blow in any of the servo positions except OFF.
 
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