Dakota Forumz banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
01 sport, 5 speed 3.9 V6. Step on the brakes and no lights. Signals, flashers, tail, reverse, and cargo lights all work. Brand new bulb in third brake light. Just replaced the brake pedal switch. All fuses look good. Unless there is one I do t know about. Removed the trailer lights hook up. I traced the wires from the rear to the firewall and didn't find any sign of damage. Is there something I missed, what should I recheck if not all?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
517 Posts
If you want to check wiring and connectors, I'm attaching a diagram of the BACK of the Junction Block. The junction block is at the left end of the dashboard, where the fuses are located. There are up to twelve connectors attached to the back of the junction block. First check and make sure you are getting power to the brake light switch - you should have 12v on the pink/dark blue wire to the switch. This power comes from fuse 5 in the power distribution center under the hood. If you have power to the switch, check that you have power from the switch when the brakes are applied - 12v on the white/tan wire from the switch.
The wire from the brake switch goes to pin 15 on connector C11 on the back of the junction block (see diagram). Back probe this wire to confirm power going to the junction block. Power comes out of the junction block to the third brake light at pin 5 on connector C4 (see diagram). Power comes out of the junction block to the combination flasher (integrates brake lights with turn signals) at pin 8 of connector C12. Back probe to confirm power is coming out.
Wherever you lose power will tell you what component is bad. No power to the brake switch - bad fuse, bad wiring, or problem in main distribution panel. No power coming out of the brake switch - bad switch or not adjusted properly. Power going into junction block but not coming out - bad junction block. Power coming out of the junction block but lights not working - bad wiring or bad combination flasher (will not affect third brake light).
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
01 sport, 5 speed 3.9 V6. Step on the brakes and no lights. Signals, flashers, tail, reverse, and cargo lights all work. Brand new bulb in third brake light. Just replaced the brake pedal switch. All fuses look good. Unless there is one I do t know about. Removed the trailer lights hook up. I traced the wires from the rear to the firewall and didn't find any sign of damage. Is there something I missed, what should I recheck if not all?

Here is the wiring diagram for your particular truck.
You can right click the mouse and save the images to your computer.
I suggest saving them to the desktop for easy reference.
Sorry I could not give you all 6 images but that's the way this site is setup .
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
517 Posts
OP's Dakota is a 2001. You posted wiring diagrams for a 1998 Dakota. There are some significant differences from the 2001. For instance, in 1998 the brake light switch was powered by Fuse F (20A); in 2001 it's powered by Fuse 5 (30A). In 1998, the wire from the brake light switch leads to the multifunction switch. In 2001, it leads to the combination flasher, a more sophisticated device than the combination flasher used in 1998. Wiring colors appear to be the same though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13 Posts
OP's Dakota is a 2001. You posted wiring diagrams for a 1998 Dakota. There are some significant differences from the 2001. For instance, in 1998 the brake light switch was powered by Fuse F (20A); in 2001 it's powered by Fuse 5 (30A). In 1998, the wire from the brake light switch leads to the multifunction switch. In 2001, it leads to the combination flasher, a more sophisticated device than the combination flasher used in 1998. Wiring colors appear to be the same though.

If you need 2001 diagrams I'll be happy to upload them.
I can only upload 5 images though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
114 Posts
Just because the wires don't look damaged doesn't mean they aren't. You have to check the conductivity of the wires. Otherwise, a bad relay or junction box.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Update:
Still haven't found the cause of the brake lights not working. Could it be in the steering column? The airbag light has been on for a long time. It started only when turning the wheel to the left, then eventually stayed on. Now the horn doesn't work. I was exploring that issue when the clutch went out...again. I just got the transmission dropped last night. I understand why mechanics charge so much. I'll post pictures later about what I found inside. The clutch fork has some grind marks and the of the clips is broke. Also there was some wear from grinding on the slave cylinder piston. This clutch has less than 30,000 miles on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
517 Posts
Your issue with the airbag light and horn not working is likely the clock spring under the steering wheel. But this doesn't have anything to do with the brake light issue. If the third brake light is not working, and you're sure the bulb is good, your problem is power to the brake switch, the brake switch itself, or connectivity from the brake switch to and through the junction block. You can't see electricity, so just looking at connections and wiring is not going to work. Get a voltmeter or power probe to check for proper voltage at the connections referenced earlier.

Sorry about your clutch. I replaced mine about five years ago, and found the problem (grinding and hard engagement) to be the pilot bearing. But now I have a new (well, only 5 years old) heavy duty clutch. I found the most frustrating part of the job to be getting the cross member out, as they wedge it between the frame rails and then bolt it in.

Good luck on your efforts!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thank you old Marine. The crossmember was a beast. The exhaust was difficult as well. Now I just have to replace the clutch and try to remember how I took it all apart. Many clips and plugs.
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top