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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,
This is my first post here. My power windows (both doors) on my 1992 Dakota with 210000 miles have ceased working. The fuse is good but neither window works. I would like to convert to manual (crank) windows. I saw another post describing how to remove the door panel. Has anyone converted power to manual before? Is it simply a swapping out of hardware? I am hoping that Dodge used the same components where possible and there would be minimal replacement pieces needed. Any help appreciated.

Thanks,
dakotafrank
 

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Hello all,
This is my first post here. My power windows (both doors) on my 1992 Dakota with 210000 miles have ceased working. The fuse is good but neither window works. I would like to convert to manual (crank) windows. I saw another post describing how to remove the door panel. Has anyone converted power to manual before? Is it simply a swapping out of hardware? I am hoping that Dodge used the same components where possible and there would be minimal replacement pieces needed. Any help appreciated.

Thanks,
dakotafrank
I don't have a clue, to the info you are needing, but I was hoping to go the other way myself and hoped that they were easily convertible. If I find out anything, in that respect, I will be sure to post it. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Followup to my original post

Hello All,

Since I first posted my question, I was able to examine a similar Dakota with manual windows. The door panels are not the same, so there are more parts needing replacement than I originally thought. After removing the door panel, I checked and found that the motor was good. It was the switch that went bad. Pep Boys wants $100 for the double-switch (exact replacement) so I went to Radio Shack and found a momentary switch intended for an electronics application that was sturdy enough to work. This switch cost $5. I mounted the switch onto the lower dash panel (grey panel beneath the light switch panel) and wired it directly to the motor. It took some work getting the wiring through the rubber boot between the door and the door jam but the boot had plenty of room inside.

For the passenger door, I mounted a second switch onto the grey panel below the steering wheel column (the panel to the right of the first switch I installed). I ran the wiring directly to the passenger door motor and in the same way as the driver door motor. It took 3 hours for the first switch and the following weekend, another 2 hours for the second switch.

Important: you have to anticipate when to release the switch when the window is all the way up or down as the motor will otherwise try to keep pushing (or pulling) the window. This could blow the fuse, or burn out the motor. I believe the original switches have some kind of circuitry which prevents this and shuts the motor off automatically. Anyway, it was an inexpensive fix and the windows work fine now.

dakotafrank
 

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Nice work. I'm glad you were able to figure it out. Thanks for sharing. Reps for DIY!
 
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