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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had my 1991 Dakota painted and when I was taking off all the trim I was searching for any good information on how to get the windows out. It was a real PITA so I thought I would share a couple suggestions to help the next person. The most difficult part was getting the old glass out. The service manual lists a Miller Special Tool but it is not available. After I got it out I talked to an old service manager in Detroit and he said the Miller Tool was just an ice scraper. I wish I would have talked to him before. He said you insert the scraper in the channel and pry the channel apart while pulling the glass out of the channel. I tried to use one of the christmas tree fastener pullers that are like a pair of pliers to spread the track but I was afraid of breaking the glass. I ended up pulling the door run out of the door to get the rear track off the glass. Had I known about the ice scraper it probably would have worked just fine. The glass has two plastic guides that have a lip on one side that retains them in the rear glass channel that is made from stainless steel. In order to get the glass out you spread the channel and pull the glass forward. It is tight so you really have to watch what your doing. If you do pull the run up and out of the door you most likely will tear it. Not to worry, a new set was only $70 from Jegs. The belt mouldings were $35 from Parts Train. There are two screws inside the run, one near the top of the window frame and one near the belt moulding. There is a plastic retainer at the bottom of the door that holds the rear channel in position. Remove the two 5/16 screws and pull the plastic piece down and off the channel. There is one 3/8 bolt holding the lower end of the front channel to the door. Remove the screws and pull the run out of the channel on the front of the window first. Then work your way to the rear of the door. The run is attached to the rear channel so they both come out together. Be very careful not to bend the channel. Get the top edge out by pulling the run toward the front of the door, and carefully pull it up to the inside of the window opening. I found it also helps to cut the rivets off the lower window stop bracket and get the glass off the regulator by unbolting the regulator, slide it off, then put a couple regulator bolts back in to hold the regulator in position. Also remove the plastic exhauster out of the back of the door so you can get better access. Let the glass rest on the bottom of the door. Once the run is out you can remove the belt moulding and remove the glass.
To replace the glass run carefully bend the tabs holding it to the channel. The new runs has tiny marks and were slit where the tabs go through it. Get the run on the channel and carefully bend the tabs back down tight. Work from the top of the channel to the bottom. It helps if the run is warm as you need to stretch it a bit to get the tabs to line up. The secret to getting the run back in the door is use LOTS of baby powder. It make the run slide in much better. Work it in from the top rear corner, down the rear, then from the top rear corner forward. Push it in tight and work it up to the top rear corner. I marked the two screw hole locations on the door frame with a Sharpie because the run is squeezed tight and you have to spread the run to see where the two screws go. The first time I didn't get enough powder and the run was too low. I thought I had to trim the bottom flaps to make it fit, but when I got the run in the proper position I had cut it too short. I reordered another pair just in case. The second one went in great and they fit great. You do not need to trim them at all. Once the run is in, put the glass in the door and let it sit on the bottom while you install the belt moulding. Then tilt the glass at a 45 degree angle front down making sure it is in the front channel and run. The lower in the door the glass is the more the lower ends of the channels flex to make getting the glass in easier. Snap the lower glass guide into the channel first, then tilt the window up in front to snap the upper guide in. Hold the rear guide with one hand and pull back on the glass HARD to snap it in. Be firm but careful.
Once the glass is back in the channels insert the bottom roller into the glass by removing the regulator again. Reinstall the regulator bolts again and check the operation. The window should roll up and down smoothly.
It sounds like it is hard, but in the end it wasn't that bad once you understand how it all goes together.
 

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huh I swapped doors on my 96 earlier in the year and wanted to save the door windows "just in case" I have an "oops" with either my 92 or my 96.

The spotless replacement junkyard doors came from an 87 believe it or not.... I got tired of fighting to pull that lipped clip out of the channel, so being that I was scrapping the original, rotted 96 doors anyways, I sawzalled the top track portion of the door off and raised the window right out of there. I know thatw asn't the right way to do it, was wondering what was....
 
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