Dakota Forumz banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The list is more less random and as I observed them. On first start for break in run it was clear I had a exhaust leak. It was on the drivers side where the three pipes meet in the center of collector. With the heat shield in place it was doing no harm so the break in went on. Bought a $100 case of break in oil determined to get the best out of it.
I mentioned installing the fuel pump with the bed removed. I do not like dropping fuel tanks and have the where with all to lift the bed by myself. I added fuel two gallons at a time and at six gallons plus a 1/2 turned off the fuel warning lamp. After a 25/30 minute break in the lamp returned. Having completed cleaning under the bed I replace it so I could run to gas station and muffler shop. Muffler shop was a short visit " remove and bring it back and order more Rim Flow gaskets."
The gas station woke me up to the new norm, put it in turn it on and quit first cut off. And 16.3 gallons and $48. later it was full and is a 22 gallon tank. What concerned me was that the fuel lamp was still on and the gauge showed 1/8 tank. I recalled reading how important position was to the float not fouling the tank. I thought, par for the course and then the fuel gauge corrected at full.
At one time I shared a dumpster with another shop. It got so bad with people filling it up I gave up. I made a quick trash run putting a total of 11 miles on the truck.
I'll be easy on it for awhile yet. The PCM is busy making friends with all the new parts. My first impression is a lot like what Arrow said to expect. The 1000 to 2000 rpm range is as weak as before if not a bit lower on torque. somewhere around 2250/2500 things start to pick up. In fifth gear that is too fast. Somewhere around 2000 is 70 mph in fifth. Drop it down to fourth which is about 3000 and there is no doubt the thing is ready to go. Once the header issue is corrected I'll make a 300 mile round trip to pick up mini parts a few hundred lbs so a good work out in 5th at highway speeds. It will be the first dyno day in the spring before we have all the info. Steve

PS The Mature Marine dropped by the shop yesterday. That's two board members I have shook hands with and gotten to know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The colors are the result of 25/30 minute break in and 11 miles driven. There is no indication of a sealing failure anywhere in the gasket. I'm a believer even if not cheap I'm ordering two sets to have three gaskets on hand. Access was so much better without the brake booster. The passenger side heat shield has a little color where it's close to the pipe. No issues at all on that side. The leak makes it impossible to get a real feel the engine sound. Once the leak is repaired I'l go though the new throttle body idle adjustment. To be honest I still have more questions about the cooling system than answers. Ralph shared a pdf and I looked at it. We have a huge system, the by pass seems big to me. It was 35 degrees here yesterday at 8 am. the truck was running, heater was putting out hot air, the upper hose at rad was 112 degrees could lay your hand on it the lower hose was 40 degrees and cold all the way to the pump. engine temp was in normal position perhaps a smidge low but it was cold out side. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just heard from my exhaust guy and the header has been repaired. The only issue now is more gaskets. I ordered two sets one each from different suppliers. The first sent a conformation with a follow up of maybe next week or the week after delivery. The second sent a conformation with a being dropped shipped note. I will wait as I was very pleased with the first gaskets sealing. This is the kind of set back I just take in stride. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I'm not sure if they ran out of gas or end of shift? Safe to say it's not like that now. Repaired and ready for service. I heard from the factory drop ship and it's been entered. No word from the this week or next. I'm going to take a look at other side with my fiber optic while waiting for gaskets. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm not going to kid you. I way over spent on this project. I had planned interior work head liner, carpet and seat covers. I had the seats out to make it easier working under the dash. I have scrubbed all the plastic and shampooed all the fabric. Still waiting for a date to get the headliner done. I have a number of trips planned for the truck as soon as I have gaskets. The first 11 miles is barely enough for the PCM to say hi. Steve.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Coop what's your rear end ratio? 3.55"s? If you want to pick up some of the lost bottom end, you can go to 3.91's easily with the 5 speed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yes, 3.55 finial drive. I keep looking for 3.73 / 3.76 ring and pinion. Once again I only want a small bite. I'm sure after I get a chance to put a few hundred miles on it I'll have a better idea of how it will pull. Still waiting for couple sets of gaskets to get me back on the road. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Yes, 3.55 finial drive. I keep looking for 3.73 / 3.76 ring and pinion. Once again I only want a small bite. I'm sure after I get a chance to put a few hundred miles on it I'll have a better idea of how it will pull. Still waiting for couple sets of gaskets to get me back on the road. Steve
Not a Mopar spec. You'd be much happier with an entire pumpkin swap that entails the 3.91's. 3.55's to 3.91's is a "small bite". 3.55's to 3.73's (if you can even find that ring and pinion) is hardly worth doing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It never fails, my exhaust gaskets arrived late last night. Tracking says I'll have another set by 9 pm Monday as well. And this morning it's 20 degrees here. I'm sure the shop is 60 degrees which is a good working temp. I have been nursing a bad back for several days. As soon as my Advil kick in I'm ready to see what she sounds like less the exhaust leak. Steve
Arrow, I started rebuilding classic mini gear boxes in 1968. I have been able to build a collection of CWP (crown wheel & pinion) 2.56, 2.65, 2.76, 2.95, 3.1, 3.2, 3.44, 3.65, 3,76, 3.95, 4.10, 4.20, 4.35, and still looking for the 4.56. As you can see I'm used to taking small bites. I run the 2.56 in my street mini and used the 4.35 in my SCCA Solo2 car. The street car rarely sees 3500 RPM the Solo car red lines at 9200 and I used all of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
It never fails, my exhaust gaskets arrived late last night. Tracking says I'll have another set by 9 pm Monday as well. And this morning it's 20 degrees here. I'm sure the shop is 60 degrees which is a good working temp. I have been nursing a bad back for several days. As soon as my Advil kick in I'm ready to see what she sounds like less the exhaust leak. Steve
Arrow, I started rebuilding classic mini gear boxes in 1968. I have been able to build a collection of CWP (crown wheel & pinion) 2.56, 2.65, 2.76, 2.95, 3.1, 3.2, 3.44, 3.65, 3,76, 3.95, 4.10, 4.20, 4.35, and still looking for the 4.56. As you can see I'm used to taking small bites. I run the 2.56 in my street mini and used the 4.35 in my SCCA Solo2 car. The street car rarely sees 3500 RPM the Solo car red lines at 9200 and I used all of it.
We're talking about an additional 100 rpm or so at 65 mph from 3.73's to 3.91's.
You have to make up some of that low end torque loss plus the cam will be much happier within its wheel house.
Trust me, I've been all through this.
Minis an these heavy trucks are in a different category.
What even a slight change in rer, the minis showed "snappiness" with its combination of lightness and tranny gear ratios.
Not so w these.
You have 5 speeds in the DaK, use all of them as well....go 3.91's.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thanks for sharing your experience I was searching for a gear ratio for a multi use mini years ago. It was 3.44 from factory at the time I had 3.44, 3.76, 3.95 and 4.10. I tried the 3.95 for awhile then the 3.76 my conclusion was a 3.95 is not a 4.10 which I had used before and the 3.76 was better suited for daily driving.
I was able to reinstall the header and heat shields yesterday. Running without the exhaust leak sounds so much better. I need to line up some help to put the hood back on. It looks like my truck will return to service with 186109 miles on the clock. Will make a stop to have the head lamps adjusted, the AC serviced and check the cam position sensor angle. There is also idle air control adjustment along with the throttle body. Let's give it a couple hundred miles to find its footing. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was able to get out and make a 175 mile loop into North Carolina yesterday. I stuck to the two lane back roads of my youth. Lots of cotton in the fields. I'll agree idle to 2000 is a weak as ever. It appears 2250 is the magic number. And 3000 may be the jack pot. Speeds are a little different from what I remember. It looks like 70 mph in 5th is 2200 rpm. It seems to me carrying 4th to 3000 also 70 mph before shifting make the jump to 2250 about 75 mph easier. At that point empty (light) it accelerates aggressively. I feel pulling the empty trailer (roughly 600 lbs) or a 300 to 500 lb load in bed 5th will be perfect. Pulling a 2000 lb load 4th will handle it well. About half way though my test loop the truck threw a code. I did not have my code book with me so I stopped and called the Mature Marine for a read. It was the PCM telling me I have still not adjusted the idle speed at the throttle body. It's idling around 850 and 675 is flashed into to the PCM. I may have found the answer to the random miss fire code. The simple answer is replace the engine with a new one, replace the complete cooling system, replace all sensors, replace the complete exhaust system and clean all connectors checking the wires. That and a Keg plate should set things straight. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
I was able to get out and make a 175 mile loop into North Carolina yesterday. I stuck to the two lane back roads of my youth. Lots of cotton in the fields. I'll agree idle to 2000 is a weak as ever. It appears 2250 is the magic number. And 3000 may be the jack pot. Speeds are a little different from what I remember. It looks like 70 mph in 5th is 2200 rpm. It seems to me carrying 4th to 3000 also 70 mph before shifting make the jump to 2250 about 75 mph easier. At that point empty (light) it accelerates aggressively. I feel pulling the empty trailer (roughly 600 lbs) or a 300 to 500 lb load in bed 5th will be perfect. Pulling a 2000 lb load 4th will handle it well. About half way though my test loop the truck threw a code. I did not have my code book with me so I stopped and called the Mature Marine for a read. It was the PCM telling me I have still not adjusted the idle speed at the throttle body. It's idling around 850 and 675 is flashed into to the PCM. I may have found the answer to the random miss fire code. The simple answer is replace the engine with a new one, replace the complete cooling system, replace all sensors, replace the complete exhaust system and clean all connectors checking the wires. That and a Keg plate should set things straight. Steve
lol!
Random misfire codes are a result of the new cam. Mine always shows P0351 with a cam of .520 lift, .216-.224 dur @.50 and a 112 lsa.. It's cheaper to ignore.
2500-3000 is that cam's wheel house. The algorithms in the pcm cannot pick up the new valve timing sequences and thus thinks the truck is always misfiring.
Ned would be vastly disappointed with your cam in his truck. (which correct me if I'm wrong was the same cam he showed he was contemplating on getting)
It would be just too big for his style driving.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Do you read for meaning? I have no codes other than a P1294 look it up. I'm still running the break in oil plan a change to the thin multi grade oil around 500 miles. I'm sure it's ready to do anything I ask of it. I'll wait till I have some additional miles on it before towing. Things I have noticed, it does have compression, down shifting you can feel engine braking. Selecting the correct gear for what you are doing is important. I have not run it though the gears hard yet. I'm playing with acceleration in different gears from different rpms. Let's see I have an over weight mid size under powered everywhere. I now have a over weight mid size with what may prove to a fair improvement in power in some part of the rpm range. I don't know where the cam will lay down. I don't imagine I'll go looking for it. May well show up on a dyno pull. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
175 Posts
Do you read for meaning? I have no codes other than a P1294 look it up. I'm still running the break in oil plan a change to the thin multi grade oil around 500 miles. I'm sure it's ready to do anything I ask of it. I'll wait till I have some additional miles on it before towing. Things I have noticed, it does have compression, down shifting you can feel engine braking. Selecting the correct gear for what you are doing is important. I have not run it though the gears hard yet. I'm playing with acceleration in different gears from different rpms. Let's see I have an over weight mid size under powered everywhere. I now have a over weight mid size with what may prove to a fair improvement in power in some part of the rpm range. I don't know where the cam will lay down. I don't imagine I'll go looking for it. May well show up on a dyno pull. Steve
More appropriate question is: Do I read for your meaning? You're the one who stated you have misfire code. Predominant are the P300 series and up.
" I may have found the answer to the random misfire code" and your answer struck me as comical because you are about the 100th person who did a cam change and got these misfire codes.
Traditionally that would include P0300-308 with P0351 to include coil.
Just trying to commiserate but you seem testy about it so I'll bow out.
Good luck w your truck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
About seven months ago I was fed up with the codes and running issues with my truck. Having done all those things and more. I will again state the only code now had to do with the idle (which now has been adjusted) I'll clear that and go back to PDone. I adjusted as per instructions, it stalled first try instructions said it would and restart all good then which has been the case. It's a little Jekyll & Hyde operate in the 1000 to 2000 rpm it's no worse and not stumbling smoking and getting 6.5 mpg has to be better. If you want to work above that it's very different. As stated only thing left block, crank, timing cover, intake and PCM which seems to be adjusting to it's new friends fine. I was not happy to get a code but it makes me feel the PCM is checking and reporting things that are not within the flashed program. I got one of the blue tooth readers and will down load the app. Once I have more data I'll start checking with tuners if there are any. Steve

Nothing testy here and only one code as reported a little over 200 miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
After making the throttle body adjustment for idle I did not reset the check engine light. It seems in the small amount of driving I did yesterday the PCM has checked the idle speed finding it correct now and turned off the light. Steve
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top