[CaffeineTripp]

So far I've only found one vendor that will supply an EGR blockoff/delete plate for the 3.9 (works on the 318 and 360 as well of course). Unfortunately for most of us, the plate is a little expensive to be a chunk of metal we'll be putting on an older vehicle; $23.00. Though it is a great looking piece with hardware included, I can't justify spending that much money on the plate right now, maybe down the road, but immediately, I think we'll just get one made.

I'll be doing a full write up today after work and after a rear brake job on a Liberty.

Edit: Unfortunately I won't be able to finish the EGR Block Off Plate given my brother in law has my drill, but no matter. I'll get to going most of the way on the write up.

Time Required:
1 Hour

Ease of Modification:
2 / 5

Tools:
3/8" Drive Ratchet
10MM Socket
10MM Wrench
Tin Snips
Dremel with Sanding Band Attachment
Razor Blades
Permanent Marker
Drill with Various Bits

Equipment:
10"x8" Duct End Cap
EGR Valve Gasket
Black RTV


Step 1:
Remove the EGR Valve's vacuum hoses, remove the EGR Valve.


Step 2:
Check to make sure the EGR Valve Gasket has not left behind any residue on the manifold.


Clean the manifold EGR Valve ports as best as possible without letting any carbon drop into the manifold. Clean the mating surface of the manifold.


Step 3:

Make a template using the new EGR Valve Gasket on the tin. Cut out the template from the tin and grind down the sharp edges keeping the block off plate as uniform as possible to the gasket itself.


Step 4:
Use the black RTV to put a small bead on the manifold and on the EGR Block Off Plate. Reassemble the EGR Gasket, Block Off Plate, and EGR Valve. Hook up hoses once more to the EGR Valve. If not using the EGR Valve, you will need shorter bolts and need to cap the hoses.


Notes:

I would recommend using shorter bolts if you want to completely remove the EGR Valve from the intake manifold, given you will need to. The tin is rather thin in comparison to the EGR Block Off Plate sold by HiPoTec, which means that it will not be as durable and may not seal nearly as well, hence the bead of black RTV. Of course, this is just a temporary fix/mod instead of purchasing the real Block Off Plate.
If necessary, you might be able to get away with cutting out a few templates, JB'ing them together to create a thicker plate, but this still will not give the necessary compression in comparison to the vendor's product. Definitely a backyard mod. Of course, use at your own risk.

 

[Voorhees]

What is the benefit to this mod. I just bought an 04 4.7l, and am looking for some cheap or free performance mods. Thx

 

[CaffeineTripp]

What is the benefit to this mod. I just bought an 04 4.7l, and am looking for some cheap or free performance mods. Thx

For your vehicle I would not recommend this mod as your CEL will trip because the EGR will not be working properly. You can do it, but given how well the EGR systems work in newer vehicles, there's really no point.

But if you still feel inclined to remove your EGR valve/disconnect it/block it off, you'll expect no gains in horsepower or torque. Doing an EGR Delete on older vehicles helped keep the burnt fuel and carbon out of the intake system to be burned again later. This hot exhaust was reintroduced to further burn everything again to help with emissions standards. For older vehicles, 1994 and older, it wasn't that good of a system, but newer vehicles it works much better, let alone the entire process is much more efficient than that of 20 years ago. From vacuum operated valves to electric (like yours), the emissions systems in today's vehicles are very touchy when it comes to something wrong; there is a fine line between working 100% and failing, in terms of how well the air/fuel mixture is burning.

My suggestion is not to do it as you will see no benefit to your vehicle, possibly worse mileage, and you will fail an emissions test.

 

[CaffeineTripp]

I've been hunting around for a better block off plate than using sheet metal, something where I could get rid of the EGR valve completely and have a clean look.

So, here's what I've found.





The FelPro 72649 EGR valve gasket that fits the Chrysler 2.2 Turbo out of a Daytona, which also fits basically every Ford engine made (2.3 I4 up to the 7.5 V8), fits the EGR valve of the Dakota. This means that the block off plates for the above engines will fit the 3.9 engine.

 

[CaffeineTripp]

Purchase a JSR EGR Delete Plate from JSR's online store on eBay. Plate came in great condition and was $10.99 shipped.

Test fit the plate, the bolt holes were a little too narrow in comparison to the Dakota's EGR valve. Nothing a little drilling out couldn't fix. The plate is aluminum so it didn't take any time.

I wanted a thicker EGR plate mostly so I wouldn't have to get more bolts and I could just reuse the OEM bolts.









Fits very nice and gives a much cleaner look.

 

[BrandoMan]

Wouldn't even the first gen daks set off a code since EGR transducer is controlled by the PCM? Also wouldn't the engine run really rich since its programed to actuate the EGR after warm up? Does the EGR shutdown at WOT like Ford PCM does? This would be cool to do. Making a block off plate is simple I did this to my old AMC 401ci but it was carb and no computer so no worries. Never.done it on a computer actuated EGR.

 

[CaffeineTripp]

The EGRs on the pre-magnum engines are vacuum operated, so not computer controlled. The 4.7, like Voorhees' engine, has an ECU controlled EGR system, which would essentially make this block off plate pointless.
There are three codes continually stored within the ECU even before this mod, all emissions related. The emissions system hasn't worked since I purchased the truck; EGR system (completely), AIR pump, EVAP. So, I did away with it entirely.