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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We just bought a 2006 Dakota. First one for us. Pulled out of the lot and the engine light came on! Nice welcome to dodge. Sheesh!
Dealer thinks it's just an evap code from bad gas cap. I hope so!
 

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We just bought a 2006 Dakota. First one for us. Pulled out of the lot and the engine light came on! Nice welcome to dodge. Sheesh!
Dealer thinks it's just an evap code from bad gas cap. I hope so!
Yup, I bought a 2004 in really nice shape, two weeks later it threw a code for EVAP. I would have had it e-checked the day I bought it, but the dang places were closed, at least I've got till July 3 to figure out what it is........😠
This is my third Dakota, a 2000, a 2004 I bought new, and this one out of Pennsylvania. I love my Dakotas !
 

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Call me skeptical, but I am thinking the dealer probably cleared the code out prior to your test drive & it came back on you. It's cheap & easy so throw a gas cap at it & see if that works, but I have my doubts about that also. I don't know how similar the EVAP plumbing is between years & models, but I had that issue after I bought mkine in '14, & after changing all the EVAP tubing out, I cleared the code & it staye clear. On mine, there is a bunch of EVAP plumbing hidden underneath the battery on the driver's side of the engine compt.
 

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We just bought a 2006 Dakota. First one for us. Pulled out of the lot and the engine light came on! Nice welcome to dodge. Sheesh!
Dealer thinks it's just an evap code from bad gas cap. I hope so!
Wouldn’t surprise me at all! My 2003 would start coding when I got low on fuel and it got cold out. Wasn’t getting a good seal between the cap and filler tube. Tube had a bit of rust and warp, gas cap gasket starting to dry out, and not enough back pressure when the tank was under 1/4 full all contributed. My mechanic would reset it after I filled the tank, and we’d be good to go.
 

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EVAP codes are very common on Daks. Usually it's the beginning of the end for the PCM. (Computer) You should probably consider investing in an OBD II reader. The port is by the brake release. You can clear the code easily that way, instead of disconnec the negative terminal on the battery. Keep track of the codes. I drove mine for 3 years with EVAP codes before the PCM started failing. When you start getting misfire & O2 sensors codes, think about a new PCM.
 

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That is an interesting observation, MoPar Pens. As I noted in my first post to OP's thread, I did clear my EVAP code by replacing all the EVAP tubing; however, it was three years after that my computer took a crap. As opposed to replacing it with a new PCM, I sent it out to a place in Illinois for repair & then I reinstalled it & have had no issues with it for 2 years.
 

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Call me skeptical, but I am thinking the dealer probably cleared the code out prior to your test drive & it came back on you. It's cheap & easy so throw a gas cap at it & see if that works, but I have my doubts about that also. I don't know how similar the EVAP plumbing is between years & models, but I had that issue after I bought mkine in '14, & after changing all the EVAP tubing out, I cleared the code & it staye clear. On mine, there is a bunch of EVAP plumbing hidden underneath the battery on the driver's side of the engine compt.
Okay. Ya didn't say anything about the PCM. If the gas cap works, great. Buying a new PCM is just not cost effective. The $1,500 FCA wants is... (Insert expletive) I got a refurbished one with a lifetime warranty from a place in New York. Sorry, I should have been clearer in my post.
 
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