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Bump. I have a 96 that I have just bought a week ago a d its driver seat is full of cigarette burns. I have a line on some from a 97. Want to find out before I spend the money and then find out that they won't for whatever reason.
 

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That would be the least of my worries, I am more concerned about the spacing of mount holes on the newer seats vs those in the older seat tracks.
 

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IDK about the OP, if they got their seat issue resolved, but I have been in the boneyards abunch lately, and have seen some square bodys with what looked like factory buckets, some missing one or both thanks to other customers that beat me to these trucks ha ha one thing that was common was that those that had any part of a console in them, the consoles were busted up or at least had their lids missing.

I was gonna see about retro fitting seats out of something else into my 96, probably a 97-04 Dakota, until I found an NOS bottom seat cover that matches my truck on EPay, as the pass seat, back seats and for that matter, the seat back in mine look like they'd never been used.... and all that I had seen like mine in the junkyards were no better than what I have now, with many being alot worse actually....
and the foam and frame on mine are still actually in good shape.
I havent priced them in a junkyard yet, though I have bought seats for other vehicles from them in the not too distant past, but at least according to the 97-04 Dakota seat sets prices on Craigslist, it will wind up a cheaper fix in my case.

but being a mechanic for a living I now need to find an aftermarket slip on seat cover for it to protect them, hope to find something that fits these 60/40 ones
 

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I've got to give this one a bump, because this is the whole reason I joined.

I have pretty limited tools and resources. If my old tracks can be bolted on to the new seats' frames, fine, but I don't have welding equipment or the budget to hire somebody to splice the hardware on.
 

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I've got to give this one a bump, because this is the whole reason I joined.

I have pretty limited tools and resources. If my old tracks can be bolted on to the new seats' frames, fine, but I don't have welding equipment or the budget to hire somebody to splice the hardware on.
OK, I don't get on here much. Sorry about the lateness of my reply, but maybe it will help someone.

I have done the swap you are talking about. I put the front bucket seats and center console from a 2000 crew cab Dak into my 94 regular cab.

I don't weld so I used some hard hard mahogany blocks to space the seat. No, not a single hole lined up, I had to drill eight holes in the floor once I figured out the correct position. Each seat is mounted with four bolts. After I figured out how long the bolts needed to be, I bought some grade 8 bolts and nuts.

It was a Royal PITA! Took me about two days doing it by myself after work. I ended up taking the carpet out completely, so I could figure out where everything was going, holes etc. I used some extra large fender washers on the bottom to add some strength. Two of them on the inboard passenger seat are quite tricky, as they are in the small space over the catalytic converter heat shield.

In the end, after I got it all together, I am pleased with the result. The center console from the Gen 2 trucks is a lot more solid than the ones I've seen on the Gen 1's. I got some spare parts, buss bars and such, from a junkyard truck and wired it up like my Haynes diagram shows for 94 Dak's. Works great.

So, the job is doable with minimum tools. I used basic hand tools, sockets screwdrivers, tape measure, etc, and an electric drill and a circular saw to cut my wood spacers.( A table saw would have been nice). You will have to figure out how to get around whatever issues you come up with on yours.

Oh, and I kept my original seat belts. They work fine, and with the newer seat, the belts mounted to the seat frame, not the chassis. Didn't want to take the chance of ripping the mount bolts through the floor if I got in an accident.

Good Luck! Ed
 
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