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Howdy everyone! I am new here and as of recently i am now the owner of an '01 4x4 quad cab! I really like it! I have lots of ideas for it but its already great just the way it is! the only thing that i REALLY want to change is how i can make the fuel economy a bit better. Secondly, I have already done a search for this but have not turned up much so if anyone knows of a thread already on this topic that DOES exist, then i will be happy to click a provided link! Or a better place i could post this question, kindly let me know! aside from putting a tonneau cover, redoing the fluids filters and plugs and making sure that my tires are good, someone suggested to me that i can get some better gas miles with a performance chip. Now, typically, i am assuming since they are usually referred to as performance chips, people typically get them so that the vehicle will respond much quicker and have more go. I really do not care how quickly i can get from my driveway to the first stop sign. What i am looking for is better fuel economy. Prior to the dakota, ive been running around pretty much solely on my motorcycle; and paying $10 to go 200 miles has spoiled me ROTTEN! :) this beast is QUITE a change up! For now, ive figured that i am getting about 15-20 mpg. Are there chips out there that are better rated for more fuel economic practices vs performance practices? What should i be looking for in a chip? It cant all be a coke vs pepsi question, can it? Thankyou everyone for your time!
 

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Welcome to the Z Family from Southern Georgia!
Glad you decided to join us.

Congrats on your new (to you) truck. Based on what I've read and heard discussed, the consensus is to stay away from the chips and go with a tuner instead. The simplest I've heard it explained is that a chip fools the computer while a tuner adjusts the computer's settings. I'm sure others will chime in. Good luck and Semper Fi!
 

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Welcome to the DakotaZ from NC! I agree with stay away from a chip but I was just looking at the Diablo site and there is not tuner available for 2001 models so I'm not sure a programmer is available. A programmer is definitely better so you may need to do a little research.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
'RAH! thanks for the break down, baxter! thanks for the start kelly! hmmmmm, yes, although it might be an older model, it IS a second gen dak, and they went all the way to 04. So thats not TERRIBLY old. Also, even though it is the smaller version, it is still a v8, i should think that SOME company out there did SOMEthing for them, thanks!
 

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you will want the Superchips Flashpaq 3865 tuner. its a little expensive (360 or so) but you can look around and get a used one or one that has been locked. thats how i got mine, but it locked for 70 bucks and sent it to Superchips to be reflashd for 85, so now i have a brand new tuner for half the price!

the tuners have fuel saving tunes you can put in for 87 octane, they also have performance tunes and can read codes to help you troubleshoot issues

good luck and welcome!!
 

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a little know fact about chips and programers is the they change the factory settings in the computer to boost proformance/fuel economy witch sounds good untill must of the time you git in to read the fine print. how they do this the IE the most commen way is by adjusting the a/c fan and throttle postion/idle with means your (a/c will be slower to turn on and less powerfull if you dont use the a/c then this is not a big deal) also if the adjust the idle/throttle postion it will idle and be more slugish on accleration. if your going this route read the reviews on the product (not on the manufacturs web sight those are scewd) and try and find out how it does it.

If you really wanna git the better gas milage the best way to do it is by adjusting how you drive (the best part is this way is free :D )
>slow down any time you are going over 65 you use more fuel(theengine is usaly at the best rpm at this speed)
> cheack your tire pressures often and adjust theme to factory specs found on drivers door sticker or (+5psi anything over will cause uneven tire wear)
>try to break as little as you can (do it safely and dont be a dumb ___)
>fill up when its cold (morning or night gasoline expands when it is hot and contracts when it is cool)
>and most of the more weght you have in the truck the more the engine has to work i used these tips and im proud to say i git 20 in city and 25 high way i do have a v6 3.9 but the epa mpg on my truck is 16 city and 17highway
(and mine was free) every thing on my truck is stock
good luck and if you buy the chip or tuneer let me know how it goes
 

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you will want the Superchips Flashpaq 3865 tuner. its a little expensive (360 or so) but you can look around and get a used one or one that has been locked. thats how i got mine, but it locked for 70 bucks and sent it to Superchips to be reflashd for 85, so now i have a brand new tuner for half the price!

the tuners have fuel saving tunes you can put in for 87 octane, they also have performance tunes and can read codes to help you troubleshoot issues

good luck and welcome!!

You can get one on Amazon for $315. http://www.amazon.com/Superchips-38...dge|40&Year=2005|2005&vehicleType=6&carId=004
 

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a little know fact about chips and programers is the they change the factory settings in the computer to boost proformance/fuel economy which sounds good untill must of the time you git in to read the fine print.
How true. Your mileage may vary as they say. :D
If you really wanna git the better gas milage the best way to do it is by adjusting how you drive (the best part is this way is free :D )
>and most of the more weght you have in the truck the more the engine has to work.
Here's the thing folks..there is no "magic bullet" available for an older designed
engine from the 70/80s (when gas was a lot cheaper)to give you better fuel economy
now that gas is more expensive. You need a complete engine redesign for that..
Ford is doing it with the new F-150.
The weight of the truck, the type and displacement of the engine, the gear ratios and how you drive will all play a factor in fuel economy.

Performance or fuel economy..you can't have both. The ideal stochiometric
air /fuel ratio (AFR) is around 14.7 to 1. If you lean out the mixture to 15:1
you run the risk of burning exhaust valves.

"Vehicles using an oxygen sensor(s) or other feedback-loop to control fuel to air ratios (usually by controlling fuel volume) will usually compensate automatically for this change in the fuel's stoichiometric rate by measuring the exhaust gas composition, while vehicles without such controls (such as most motorcycles until recently, and cars predating the mid-1980s) may have difficulties running certain boutique blends of fuels (esp. winter fuels used in some areas) and may need to be rejetted (or otherwise have the fueling ratios altered) to compensate for special boutique fuel mixes. Vehicles using oxygen sensors enable the air-fuel ratio to be monitored by means of an air–fuel ratio meter."

In as much as we would like to get better fuel economy out of our trucks, the
type of driving we do...city or highway...lower gears or O/D will determine
the amount of fuel we consume...you can buy all the fancy engine reprogrammers or fuel additives and it won't change this basic fact very much...an 6 or 8 cylinder truck will always burn more gas than a 4 cylinder
Honda Civic!
 

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yeah but you'd still have to pay me to drive a Civic.... in addition to giving me the car for free. I have never and will never buy anything but a RWD/4WD Mopar and/or jeep.... actually my best "mileage" vehicle is a 78 plymouth 2-door Fury Sport, with a carbureted 318....a "boat" by most people's definition but for 1978 there was 1 model larger than mine... I love this car same interior as my 1st 2 cars a 76 Charger and 75 Cordoba... but unfortunately as they love road salt in Illinois it's parked til salt season is done. My 81 4WD Dodge 1/2 ton and even my 87 window van (also 318 with carburetors) were cheaper on fuel than my Wrangler my Cherokee (both with 4.0 inline 6s) and my 3.9 powered 94 Dakota which are all "only" 6s...
 

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i think there was a little mix up

:Di think there was a little mix up the tips that i posted are not just my personal views but just things that i have read about from the epa (a well known goverment agency) and have implamented with great results if you dont belive me here is the link
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/consumer/17-tips.htm

now on to the good stuff i am a compleat beliver that their is no "magic bullet" to better mpg. how ever the origanl poster was asking for tips on how to improve it, and that is what i was trying to provide. now i dont know how well buying a gas saver car :eek: would help him git better gas in his new dakota. but i would love to hear it. <-just giveing you a hard time bud.

wel i hope this has cleard things up
 

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yeah but you'd still have to pay me to drive a Civic.... in addition to giving me the car for free. I have never and will never buy anything but a RWD/4WD Mopar and/or jeep.... actually my best "mileage" vehicle is a 78 plymouth 2-door Fury Sport, with a carbureted 318....a "boat" by most people's definition but for 1978 there was 1 model larger than mine... I love this car same interior as my 1st 2 cars a 76 Charger and 75 Cordoba... but unfortunately as they love road salt in Illinois it's parked til salt season is done. My 81 4WD Dodge 1/2 ton and even my 87 window van (also 318 with carburetors) were cheaper on fuel than my Wrangler my Cherokee (both with 4.0 inline 6s) and my 3.9 powered 94 Dakota which are all "only" 6s...
Well, I guess each man to his own :D I like small cars, and I think that when they're in good shape, they're great for the daily commute. They're easy to maneuver and park and generally fairly zippy and definitely easy on the wallet - lower fuel costs, insurance, etc. If someone gave me one for free, I certainly wouldn't say no - I could even get a few hundred for it if I decided I didn't want it. For a daily driver all I look for is a bit of comfort (required comfort is directly proportional to the commute distance) and dependability

I had a mid 70s Duster with a 318 - what a gutless wonder. That was the era when they redesigned a few things to cut down on emissions and gave up a lot of HP as a consequence - I had to change a lot of stuff on that engine to get it back up to some reasonable horsepower & thankfully fuel was cheap then.

I've worked with jeeps for a few years and still have a 91 YJ (called a Wrangler in some places) and although the inline 6 (both the 4.2 and the 4.0) were/are pretty dependable, they took a lot of abuse and negligence, they're awful on gas, especially on the highway - I'd hate to watch my paycheck roll through that if it was my daily driver. I often regret not installing a 350 into it when I had the chance about 3 years ago, instead I replaced the original 4.0 with a 2005 4.0 that I converted to run under OBD1.
 

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I had a mid 70s Duster with a 318 - what a gutless wonder. That was the era when they redesigned a few things to cut down on emissions and gave up a lot of HP as a consequence - I had to change a lot of stuff on that engine to get it back up to some reasonable horsepower & thankfully fuel was cheap then.
Yes, those old carbureted 318 really sucked on performance. My ex had
a Chrysler "banker's car"..the old Fifth Avenue..it was so gutless it barely
made it up a steep hill in Vermont and that was in LOW.
...they're awful on gas, especially on the highway - I'd hate to watch my paycheck roll through that if it was my daily driver. I often regret not installing a 350 into it when I had the chance about 3 years ago,
Just wondering how you would do that since a GM 350 (and I had a couple'
GM cars with them), were designed to work with the turbo-hydramatic GM
transmission and if you bolted up the 350 with a 2bbl carb, to the Mopar
tranny for a 3.9L ? ...the additional torque available on the the 350 would
decrease the life of the Mopar tranny.... never mind the adapter plate
necessary to bolt up the Mopar tranny to the 350.
 

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Just wondering how you would do that since a GM 350 (and I had a couple'
GM cars with them), were designed to work with the turbo-hydramatic GM
transmission and if you bolted up the 350 with a 2bbl carb, to the Mopar
tranny for a 3.9L ? ...the additional torque available on the the 350 would
decrease the life of the Mopar tranny.... never mind the adapter plate
necessary to bolt up the Mopar tranny to the 350.
It's relatively easy to use most versions of the 350 with quite a few other parts. Since it was a very popular engine, there are a lot of aftermarket adapters (Advance Adapters makes some quality products) available to "glue" the engine to various transmissions. I would have kept the robust traditional Jeep 5 speed manual transmission (AX-15), used an AA adapter, welded in new engine mounts, and after adding a couple of re-sized drive shafts, it would have been ready to roll. The automatic transmissions weren't as popular for the Wrangler due to the length of the typical auto tranny. The rear drive shaft is very short to begin with, and when you raise the jeep with a suspension lift. the drive shaft angle at the transfer case becomes too large really quick.
 
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