Dakota Forumz banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all. New member, but long time Dakota owner. I have a '99 Dakota 4wd. Back in Nov. '18 started having trouble with brake lines. Had to have them replaced over several trips to my mechanic. Been having trouble since. Latest is the brakes freezing. So this time took it to a dealer. I think it's the emergency brake, yet all dealer did was lube all the lube points and claimed rust from non-use. yet it's rusting up bad enough to lock everything up within a few days of not being used.

The right caliper was replaced in Nov. with brake lines in Nov. '18 and the cylinders were replaced in Jan '19. Then it was in mid-Feb to beginning of March that the brakes started locking. (In all the 20 years I've had this truck, this has never happened before.) I can get them to release once in a while but usually not for long. Has only 98,000 miles, about 25,000 of those in the last 2 years.

Anybody heard of this before or have a solution that the dealer doesn't seem to know about? Might it be the new cylinders or the new caliper?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
On my rust buckets, I change the caliper bracket whenever I change a caliper.
You might consider that, as sometimes the pads seem to get hung up in all the gunk & corrosion that builds up inside the grooves that the pads slide in & out in.

I am assuming you have rear discs?


By changing the brake lines, were you referring to the flexible lines attaching to the calipers, or were you talking about the rigid, metal brake lines from the ABS box out to the brake caliper flexible lines, or both? I remember reading that (particularly with rear discs) corrosion inside the the metal lines would sometimes allow fluid flow out to the calipers but would restrict as it attempted to return (kind of like a 1-way check valve) & hence the the brakes wouldn't completely release.


If you only replaced the flexible lines from the calipers, you might think about doing the rigid lines as well. That's a job that can turn into a bit of a b*tch sometimes, but that might be your problem.



As far as your emergency brake being the culprit, I am not sure if different years vary on the way the calipers are set up, but on mine (which utilizes rear discs), the e-brake is a separate set of brake shoes which applies on the inside of the rotor (kind of like drum brakes) while the regular braking is accomplished by the caliper piston squeezing the rotor with pads. Meaning that I don't think your e-brake is the problem (if you have rear disc brakes).


When you wrote that you had the cylinders replaced, are you talking about your master cylinder? What was the reason?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
1999 dakota brakes

Thanks for the response. The rear brakes are drum. The rigid metal brake lines and some were replaced in Nov. '19 and the others in Jan '19 so it shouldn't be corrosion. The wheel cylinders were replaced. The Master cylinder is the original. e-brake petal goes to the floor, which I don't think it should. I've always had trouble with the right front capiler, which was replaced in Nov with the lines. I'm wondering if the cylinders or the caliper are bad.



Well thanks. It goes to the dealer tomorrow. My local mechanic is the one that replaced the brake lines, etc then I started with this brake problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
1999 dakota brakes

Thanks for the response. The rear brakes are drum. Some of the rigid metal brake lines were replaced in Nov. '18 and the others in Jan '19 so it shouldn't be corrosion. The wheel cylinders were replaced in Jan. The Master cylinder is the original. I've always had trouble with the right front capiler, which was replaced again in Nov with the lines. I'm wondering if the cylinders or the caliper are bad.

The e-brake petal goes to the floor, which I don't think it should.




Well thanks. It goes to the dealer tomorrow. My local mechanic is the one that replaced the brake lines, etc, then I started with this brake problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Just to clarify then, is it one or both front brakes that are not releasing, or one or both rear brakes?


(You wrote that your issues started after you had the right front caliper replaced, so that is making me think that that is the one that is not releasing?)



Sorry for being dense about the cylinders you referred to. I haven't worked on rear drums for quite a while.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Honestly I'm not sure. I'm not in a position to take the thing apart. The front brakes are disc and rear drum just to be clear.

I park this truck in an up angle driveway and always engaged the e-brake for safety. Been doing this for 20 years and suddenly after having all this brake work done, lines,caliper,cylinders...,I'm having this problem. Sitting on this hill in drive or reverse it won't move at all. It should at least drift backwards into the street. It will move in neutral. At this point I hope the dealer can get this fixed and not mess it up worse. I was hoping to maybe find some suggestions to pass on to the dealer.



Thanks again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
60 Posts
Honestly I'm not sure. I'm not in a position to take the thing apart. The front brakes are disc and rear drum just to be clear.

I park this truck in an up angle driveway and always engaged the e-brake for safety. Been doing this for 20 years and suddenly after having all this brake work done, lines,caliper,cylinders...,I'm having this problem. Sitting on this hill in drive or reverse it won't move at all. It should at least drift backwards into the street. It will move in neutral. At this point I hope the dealer can get this fixed and not mess it up worse. I was hoping to maybe find some suggestions to pass on to the dealer.



Thanks again.

Right--pretty much everything is front disc; at first I just wasn't sure if you were rear discs or drums.

As Ralph wrote, the fact that it is not drifting in D or R but will drift in N does not indicate a brake issue. But I can tell you how to know which brake or brakes is hanging up if you do have that issue. Take it for a drive & then get out & feel your wheels; if you do, in fact, have a brake that is hanging up & not releasing, that wheel will be significantly hotter than the others--probably too hot to touch. If it is REALLY stuck BAD, the brake will actually be smoking.



As far as your e-brakes, as I am sure you already know, those are your rear brakes, but when you wrote that the e-brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, that actually suggests to me that they may not be engaging at all. Either way, if your problem was e-brake related (which I am thinking it is not), I think it would be related to a e-brake cable issue.


You've got me curious though; good luck, & when you do get an answer, I'd love to know what you find out.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top