Dakota Forumz banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I've replaced the hub bearing on the drivers side twice on my 99 4x4 because it was making a whining noise and recently when I got up to 75 mph it started making that same noise again. Is there a way to grease the bearing because it seemed like it was sealed. I'm wondering what keeps making it do that?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
Are you sure it is the bearing? Replaced twice in how many miles? When the suspension is supported by a jack stand as near the wheel as possible, and you wiggle the tire back and forth and up and down, do you feel play in the hub? Does the sound change as you weave slightly left to right? If you switch the wheels left to right does the sound move?

I don't know of any way of greasing a sealed hub.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Are you sure it is the bearing? Replaced twice in how many miles? When the suspension is supported by a jack stand as near the wheel as possible, and you wiggle the tire back and forth and up and down, do you feel play in the hub? Does the sound change as you weave slightly left to right? If you switch the wheels left to right does the sound move?

I don't know of any way of greasing a sealed hub.
Earlier this year while replacing the upper and lower control arms I was getting the drivers side ready for removing and a buddy stopped by and wanted to help.One of the first things he did was grab the studs and gave it a wiggle and it moved up and down as well as side to side freely and he told me that the bearing is shot on that one. So while removing everything on that side he pointed out how it looked like it has been heating up and causing that whirring noise that I was hearing. So I ordered yet another one for the same side and the other time I replaced it was about 2015 when I replaced all the end links and steering components as well as the ball joints, etc. I noticed then that I needed control arm bushings but had to put those on pause due to financial situation. Still I replaced the hub bearing then but ordered the wrong one because the one I got had a sensor on it and mine doesn't call for one so I used it anyways and of course that sensor got so hot that it had melted as well. I figured maybe that may have something to do with it making the noise then and of course after replacing it with the right one no more noise until the other day I get up to about 75 and that noise started again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
433 Posts
Don't worry, I've had to replace my wheel bearings on 4 separate occasions. They tend to fail if you take the truck in deep mud and water. These bearings are sealed and cannot be regreased. When water gets in them, all you can do is wait for them to make noise then replace them.

When installing new bearings, it is critical to tighten the big nut to the correct torque. If you don't, the nut could be too loose and the bearings will prematurely wear out. If too tight, they will prematurely wear out.

Another suggestion, replace both bearings, because if one wears out, the other isn't far behind.

Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Don't worry, I've had to replace my wheel bearings on 4 separate occasions. They tend to fail if you take the truck in deep mud and water. These bearings are sealed and cannot be regreased. When water gets in them, all you can do is wait for them to make noise then replace them.

When installing new bearings, it is critical to tighten the big nut to the correct torque. If you don't, the nut could be too loose and the bearings will prematurely wear out. If too tight, they will prematurely wear out.

Another suggestion, replace both bearings, because if one wears out, the other isn't far behind.

Ed
Thanks! I probably didn't torque them to spec either time because I broke 2 different bolts trying to torque them and was afraid that I may get them too tight.So it looks like 2 hub bearings are in my future if the Great Reset or mandates doesn't prevent that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,278 Posts
For this type of work, a good torque wrench is critical. If you can't afford one now, borrow one from the auto parts store that sells you the wheel bearings.
This.

This oh, so, very, VERY much.

Even a Hazard Fraught $10 torque wrench (with the coupon) is better than "Wazzat four or five uggaduggas?" for something like this.

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
This.

This oh, so, very, VERY much.

Even a Hazard Fraught $10 torque wrench (with the coupon) is better than "Wazzat four or five uggaduggas?" for something like this.

RwP
I'm thinking about checking out one of the local auto parts stores that has that loan-a-tool program because Hazard Fraught $19 torque wrenches only go to 150 ft lbs. The axle nut calls for 185 and those don't come cheap even there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,278 Posts
Loan-A-Tool is good also; you can also check the pawn shops if you have any where you live (we have an overabundance of them here ... )

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Home Depot shows a Husky brand on sale for $50. I can't speak to the quality.
Husky 50 ft./lbs. to 250 ft./lbs. 1/2 in. Drive Torque Wrench-H2DTWA - The Home Depot
Thanks I'll have to find a local Home Depot if I don't get one of those Loan a tool if they still have it.I know that I used to go to Oreilly's and put up the amount the tool costs and take it back and get a full refund provided that I didn't damage it or something like that. But lately I think I'd be better off just dropping $50 on one if I can get it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
After reading the reviews and knowing from experience with other Husky hand tools I opted to go ahead and check out O'reilly Auto parts and borrow one from there. Thanks for all of your help! I'm gonna try to get away with replacing the driver's side this month then hope like heck that takes care of the issue. I'm wondering though if I went ahead and torqued the passenger side to spec in the process would it benefit me or cause failure?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
37 Posts
If you were the last person to fuss with the passenger side, by all means, torque the axle nut properly. If it's never been touched, or the last time was done by a mechanic who knows his stuff, don't bother. For the bolts that hold the hub to the steering knuckle, it wouldn't hurt to make sure they are tight enough, i.e. put the torque wrench on them and tighten until it clicks. I wouldn't, however, spend the time to loosen them first; if the torque wrench clicks without turning the bolt, consider it good. For the axle nut, remove it and move the axle in a bit with a hammer or hub puller, just enough to know it's free to move, then re-tighten the nut to spec.

When you do your left bearing, consider putting anti-seize on the axle/hub splines. Since spending a couple of hours trying to free an axle from a hub, then finally borrowing a 7-ton 3-jaw gear puller to break it free, I've always used copper anti-seize on the splines.
Just for fun (the trouble you want to prevent):
YouTube - How To Remove A Seized Axle Stuck In The Hub - Mitsubishi Endeavor Example
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
If you were the last person to fuss with the passenger side, by all means, torque the axle nut properly. If it's never been touched, or the last time was done by a mechanic who knows his stuff, don't bother. For the bolts that hold the hub to the steering knuckle, it wouldn't hurt to make sure they are tight enough, i.e. put the torque wrench on them and tighten until it clicks. I wouldn't, however, spend the time to loosen them first; if the torque wrench clicks without turning the bolt, consider it good. For the axle nut, remove it and move the axle in a bit with a hammer or hub puller, just enough to know it's free to move, then re-tighten the nut to spec.

When you do your left bearing, consider putting anti-seize on the axle/hub splines. Since spending a couple of hours trying to free an axle from a hub, then finally borrowing a 7-ton 3-jaw gear puller to break it free, I've always used copper anti-seize on the splines.
Just for fun (the trouble you want to prevent):
YouTube - How To Remove A Seized Axle Stuck In The Hub - Mitsubishi Endeavor Example
Good advise I should get my new one in Monday and remember what you just told me. I was the one who replaced the hub bearing on the passenger side as well. I can't afford the huge rates charged for labor which is why I prefer to do everything myself.
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top