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Discussion Starter #1
When I rev the engine in my truck, the RPMs jump up quickly, but it winds down much slower than when I do the same thing in my Charger. Anybody know why?

Is it a difference in tuning with the older PCM and the 360 Magnum versus the 5.7 Hemi's modern computer? If so, it may change when I get my tuner.

Is it maybe that the truck has a heavier flywheel (for towing and such)?

It seems to run fine; good power and throttle response. I'm not interested in taching it up to 7k just to hear it scream just for kicks, but just noticing the diffrence and wondered why.

Any thoughts?
 

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the valve train, and rotating assemblies of the 360 are heavier than the 5.7 pistons, rods etc.360's use more steel the hemi is aluminum and are lightened up and balanced the hemi also breathes alot better than the l.a. or the magnums along with heavier flywheels balancers etc. but the 360 has more cubic inches. The 360 also reacts better to simpler mods I.E headers, colder air,cams.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
OK. That makes sense.

So am I losing HP and torque by running the open element air cleaner as opposed to a CAI? I had a friend tell me that was the case yesterday. Honestly, I didn't think it would make a huge difference and I did it mostly for asthetics (love the old school look). I guess with the older muscle cars I've had all seemed to respond well to opening up the air cleaner, but CAI's weren't as effective back then (if they existed at all).
 

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mine doesnt do that at all, when i let off the pedal regardless of how high its revved, it drops off fairly quickly and im using an open element air filter too
 

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Discussion Starter #5
mine doesnt do that at all, when i let off the pedal regardless of how high its revved, it drops off fairly quickly and im using an open element air filter too
Yeah? That is interesting. One day I'll get up that way and compare notes.:)

I knida shifted gears; I don't think the revving issue is related to the CAI. However, I think I'm going to test out my air cleaner setup (which I like) against a CAI once I get my tuner. I really like the old school look though so if it isn't hurting me in HP or mileage, I'm inclined to stay with it.
 

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Yeah? That is interesting. One day I'll get up that way and compare notes.:)

I knida shifted gears; I don't think the revving issue is related to the CAI. However, I think I'm going to test out my air cleaner setup (which I like) against a CAI once I get my tuner. I really like the old school look though so if it isn't hurting me in HP or mileage, I'm inclined to stay with it.
let me know, i've thought about going back to the CAI now that i put the 93 octane tune on mine, want to know if there is a diff. plus my filter is getting dirty
 

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guys i have been using an air raid cai for years and have sworn by it. but after reading this post I went looking, and seems there is a lack of proof that they actually work. I have been a drag racer for a long time. I know from my own experience that removing the air filter gets you more air volume into the engine a toilet bowl or a sealed cowl induction hood pulls fresh / cooler air from the outside of the engine bay and they both translate into more horsepower and torque resulting in lower e.t.'s. so it only makes sense to me that the same should be applicable to a cai by pulling air out of the fender well and a free flowing element in the filter. I love the looks of the old school air cleaners I would bet that a cowl induction type hood would be very beneficial to these by presenting a cooler air supply from the windshield.
I have been pondering something else I use a fuel cooler box on my drag cars I wonder how this would work on the dakota?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The discussion my friend and I had centered around the CAI emulating more of a forced induction or closed air induction system. It seems logical to me that if the air you're brining in is cooler it might impact performance. But as I said, all my old school cars ran an open element air filter and none (except the 73 T/A which had a shaker) had any cowl induction or other hood scoops that allowed fresh air in; it was all underhood air (so to speak).

My 77 Firebird Formula ran a 8.81 in the 1/8 mile with a Moroso setup atop a Holley 800cfm DP on a 400ci Pontiac with headers, aluminum intake manifold, ported closed chamber heads, a R/A IV cam, TH-400 trans with 3000 stall and 3.23 posi on slicks (about 9.00 on street tires). Its an old track reference (circa 1986), but, unfortunately, the most recent one I have. All the folks I knew then ran a similar air cleaner setup on their street cars so it worked well.

However, technology has evolved since then and my Airaid CAI works really well on my Charger R/T (which has not yet been to a track); I love it. Thus, I am open to going with it on my Dakota, but I don't want to invest the money unless I know it will be worth it.

I must apologize for the noobish questions. I was always a Pontiac man and I know how to make them run. I've worked on a few Chevy's but my experience on the nuances of the Mopar engines is fairly limited.

But I am anxious to learn.:D I've resisted the urge to put a cam and ported Eagle heads on my Charger, but that will probably happen eventually.
 

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HOW AIR INTAKE TEMPERATURE EFFECTS POWER
Hot air rises because it weighs less than cold air. There are fewer
air molecules in a given volume of hot air than the same volume
of cold air. When the engine consumes hot air, there are less air
molecules to burn with the fuel. This causes unburnt fuel to exit
the combustion chamber, resulting in less power being produced.
For every 5.5° rise in air intake temperature, engine power will be
reduced by 1 percent.
air raid claims to lower the intake temp. by 39 degrees.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks. That all makes sense.

I am shopping for either the Airaid or K&N FIPK. I love my Airaid on the Charger and was hoping the one for the Dakota had a heat shield, but it doesn't. That has me leaning toward the K&N.
 

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I have the air raid, it has a heat shield/ box. it uses the stock box without a lid, it has a piece that snaps to the top of the box and seals to the hood. it gets fresh air from the fender well.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I have the air raid, it has a heat shield/ box. it uses the stock box without a lid, it has a piece that snaps to the top of the box and seals to the hood. it gets fresh air from the fender well.
Ah. I just pulled the trigger on the K&N FIPK. Mine didn't come with the stock air box and my OEM hat is in rough shape. It had some sort of... um, shall we say "custom" setup that I wasn't too crazy about.:D
 

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have you guys seen the frankentake setup for LX cars? its a lot cheaper than going name brand, i can have a do-it-yourself CAI for my charger for around 140 bucks including shipping

im sure the same can be done on the dakotas, just have to get the right size tube and bends in it

and i dont see how air raid can claim a 39 degree temp drop by using their CAI, thats a lot
 

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I've seen those. you can adjust them to fit about anywhere. 39 degrees is what they claim. I tried sticking a frozen bottle of water in the bottom of the box to see if it would cool the air enough to make a difference at the track in my dak. I made several runs during time trials to get some ideas. no change with the ice. I ran 9.82 in the 1/8 took the air filter off 9.75 that was the only gain i could make. i don't think i want to run around without some kind of filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
My K&N FIPK arrived Friday and I installed it that night. My initial impression from driving around last night and today is that it feels stronger with the CAI. I guess I'll be good and check the mileage aspect of it on my next long trip.:D I'm thinking that I really need a tuner.
 

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oil pressure problem

Hello , I have a dakota r/t v8 5.9 the oil pressure gauge is dropping to zero and check engine light comes on . it's going up and down and now it's down and check engine light is on and no oil pressure. is this a oil pressure sending unit or the pump itself.thank you
 

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Hello , I have a dakota r/t v8 5.9 the oil pressure gauge is dropping to zero and check engine light comes on . it's going up and down and now it's down and check engine light is on and no oil pressure. is this a oil pressure sending unit or the pump itself.thank you
Yes. Neither. Possibly.

Since I'm not there, I can't tell you for sure. But. When it drops to zero, does the motor make more noise? And since the 5.9 sending unit is reachable, without tearing into the motor, I'd check the connection and swap the sending unit and see if it helps any.

RwP
 

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Ok I will try your suggestions .Yes I drove the damn thing for a few miles to get home and it did start rattling .valves of course ticking..I'm thinking an oil pump it has 167000 miles
 

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the iac is probably causing your truck to idle down a little slow,mine had a serious lag when returning to idle, cleaning it helped tons...theres also a way to reset the iac count if interested i can find the procedure for ya. it was on bionic dodge if im not mistaken
 
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