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Hey everyone! Brand new to forum so thank you welcoming me. I drive a 2000 black Dodge Dakota and the paint has been fading for the last 2 years. The windshield trim began to fade too. I'd like to get it repainted (no dents or dings) and retrimmed as I've had the vehicle for 14 years and was wondering if anyone had any idea. I kind of have a ballpark idea that it would be somewhere are $5K. I appreciate you all
 

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I also drive a Gen 2 black Dakota and the roof panel is badly faded. I looked into having that only done but it was $1800. Also the fade has started working down and has just the edge of the next panels showing the same issue. I went to Macco which is good at a price. It seems once the clear peels the color attracts moisture and should be removed to bare metal which is then treated and start over. That took their $1500 right up to $2500. I took it two other places one which has done outstanding work for us before. They were $5500. The third place suggest I take it to Macco. While I have only had mine a couple of years I'm very happy with it.. Due to condition I picked it up very reasonable. Right off I spent $3500 on brakes, suspension and AC system. Then it was $800 for tires. I'm currently $4100 into the new engine rebuild. It looks like a rebuilt NV3500 tranny runs around $2400. I'm now looking into other 5 speeds rated at 400 or 500 Lb ft torque. They are offered with different ratios for first and OD.
Sorry got off topic, I have been concerned about under hood temps and notice how many Dakotas have staples or thumb tacks holding head liner up. Giving serious thought to having mine two toned. Leave the lower sections black and do the hood and cab from just below windows up silver or some lighter shade. Steve
 

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2003 Dakota Sport, club cab, 3.9L V6, 5 speed manual
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My 2003 black Dakota had bad Chrysler cancer (clear coat peeling). In 2015, I had Maaco repaint it, including removing the clear coat, for $1600. They gave me a 4 year warranty on the paint job, and it's still looking pretty good. There are a couple of places where the clear coat was not completely removed (beneath the pop out windows on my club cab), that show up now, but overall I'm satisfied. My Dakota definitely looks a lot better than 18 years old.
 

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I have a 2001 Dakota SLT. The roof and hood were fading and damaged from ashes raining down thanks to my neighbor. I just had the hood and roof repainted last winter for $1350. Is the entire truck fading or just some of the surface panels? The third brake light gasket disintegrated so I used silicone caulk to seal it up. A local body shop in Guilford, CT did an outstanding job on the body work and paint.
 

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I bought my 99 Dakota 4x4 a couple months ago and the paint was faded in all the usual spots. I wanted to do a bed liner paint job, and got quotes of $4,000 and $5,000 to do it. I paid $2,500 for the truck.

I looked into a DIY paint and found Monstaliner DIY that cost me $350 to do. Here are some before and after pics.

I sanded the surfaces down, cleaned it off and then did a orange roll on bed liner paint job.
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2011 Ram Dakota Laramie (QC, 4.7L V8)
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I bought my 99 Dakota 4x4 a couple months ago and the paint was faded in all the usual spots. I wanted to do a bed liner paint job, and got quotes of $4,000 and $5,000 to do it. I paid $2,500 for the truck.

I looked into a DIY paint and found Monstaliner DIY that cost me $350 to do. Here are some before and after pics.

I sanded the surfaces down, cleaned it off and then did a orange roll on bed liner paint job. View attachment 3147 View attachment 3147 View attachment 3148 View attachment 3149
Looks great! How did you reapply the badging? What adhesive did you use and how did you ensure you got it back into the right spots?
 

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Actually I went around the right side badge, and the left was missing, and ordered a replacement. Where the badges go there are 2 small holes in the fenders, so it was easy.

If I had to do it all over again, I would've removed the fender flares. As long as you can go in a horizontal line with the roller, you can't really tell the difference between a roll or spray on. I used a brush to go around the flares, and you could see some of the lines are not straight.

I mean, the roll on (2 coats) was nice and thick, and where I live in Northeast NC, the salt eats everything, so it's functional and looks good. I'm sure if it was done in a shop, it would be very nice and professional looking, but I saved $4,650 by doing it this way, and for a $2,500 truck I'm happy.

I forget what adhesive I used, I think a 2 part epoxy glue, but not sure of the brand.
 
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