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Discussion Starter #81
What is a reasonably priced scan tool for the 2000 dakota? I bought a $329 one that half the features wouldn't work on a 2000. I need the live view to check fuel trims and timing
 

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Omg I don't want to speak to soon but I think I fixed it!!! Listened to injectors with a long screwdriver and yes it fricken works and they were all tapping away. Did the radiator hose where it went down all the way and clamped it . Did that bubble test again on my pipes and before there were shit tons where the pipes meet the manifolds so remflex gaskets fixed that. Now where all the pipes meet before the flange??? 1
Still bubbles what was my fix? Furnace Cement! I crammed that shjt in amevery nook and cranny I could find whith my vacuum on suck instead of blow so I can feel the air and stuff it w cement.
Results?
No more red glowing manifold pipes. Im gonna keep checking on it but danggit!!! I did it
 

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"crammed that shjt in amevery nook and cranny I could find whith my vacuum on suck instead of blow so I can feel the air and stuff it w cement."

Not exactly sure what you are meaning there, but I am glad it's "fixed" & I am hoping that it stays that way! Hey, you have my congratulations for your determination & staying with it!

I cannot answer your question about the scan tool. i do not own one, when ever I throw a code I go to Advance & have them scan it for me & then I go from there.

I'll throw this out there for you (if you are ready for it), your battery should not be dying on you all the time. Could be your alternator. If your pipes are not glowing, you could drive it down to Advance or the like & they can check it while it's on the truck & running, OR, you can pull it off & bring it down there & they can bench check it. If you do pull it off, disconnect your battery at the negative terminal first. I once saw a service bulletin from GM relating to damage being done to the PCM when disconnecting electrics from an alternator with the battery hooked up; not sure if this applies to MOPAR, but it's always good to disconnect the battery before doing anything to any electronics. General principle.

Hey, I am glad you got her up & running & not glowing!
 

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Oh, & also: small to medium vacuum leaks like the one that you seem to indicate hearing at your brake booster are not causing your headers to glow, but regardless, if you cure them, your truck will be happier & run better. Try putting a clamp on that hissing hose, & if that doesn't stop the leak, change the hose.
 

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What is a reasonably priced scan tool for the 2000 dakota? I bought a $329 one that half the features wouldn't work on a 2000. I need the live view to check fuel trims and timing
I'd get a good quality ELM327 OBDII/Bluetooth adapter, and run Torque (Free is free, Pro is extremely cheap!) on an Android phone.

RwP
 

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Omg I don't want to speak to soon but I think I fixed it!!! Listened to injectors with a long screwdriver and yes it fricken works and they were all tapping away. Did the radiator hose where it went down all the way and clamped it . Did that bubble test again on my pipes and before there were shit tons where the pipes meet the manifolds so remflex gaskets fixed that. Now where all the pipes meet before the flange??? 1
Still bubbles what was my fix? Furnace Cement! I crammed that shjt in amevery nook and cranny I could find whith my vacuum on suck instead of blow so I can feel the air and stuff it w cement.
Results?
No more red glowing manifold pipes. Im gonna keep checking on it but danggit!!! I did it
Atta girl.
I stated about the wood stove (furnace) cement earlier. Glad it worked.
I don't think Auto Zone does specific fuel sync but they will run a diagnostic scan for ya.
 

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What is a reasonably priced scan tool for the 2000 dakota? I bought a $329 one that half the features wouldn't work on a 2000. I need the live view to check fuel trims and timing
Granted it's not a $700-$800 unit but spending that kind of money should have provided little compromise for the do-it-yourselfer.
 

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What is a reasonably priced scan tool for the 2000 dakota? I bought a $329 one that half the features wouldn't work on a 2000. I need the live view to check fuel trims and timing
 

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Discussion Starter #89
"crammed that shjt in amevery nook and cranny I could find whith my vacuum on suck instead of blow so I can feel the air and stuff it w cement."

Not exactly sure what you are meaning there, but I am glad it's "fixed" & I am hoping that it stays that way! Hey, you have my congratulations for your determination & staying with it!

I cannot answer your question about the scan tool. i do not own one, when ever I throw a code I go to Advance & have them scan it for me & then I go from there.

I'll throw this out there for you (if you are ready for it), your battery should not be dying on you all the time. Could be your alternator. If your pipes are not glowing, you could drive it down to Advance or the like & they can check it while it's on the truck & running, OR, you can pull it off & bring it down there & they can bench check it. If you do pull it off, disconnect your battery at the negative terminal first. I once saw a service bulletin from GM relating to damage being done to the PCM when disconnecting electrics from an alternator with the battery hooked up; not sure if this applies to MOPAR, but it's always good to disconnect the battery before doing anything to any electronics. General principle.

Hey, I am glad you got her up & running & not glowing!
Short lived they're glowing again. I have no idea what to do anymore :( what I did notice today when I took off my wires off the dist cap I looked under the cap and the rotor is NOT POINTING to the area where it says cylinder 1. I thought it was supposed to be pointing at that area
 

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Short lived they're glowing again. I have no idea what to do anymore :( what I did notice today when I took off my wires off the dist cap I looked under the cap and the rotor is NOT POINTING to the area where it says cylinder 1. I thought it was supposed to be pointing at that area
It only points that way if the motor is on Cylinder 1 TDC ...

If the motor stopped somewhere else in the 720* crank (360* distributor) cycle, it'll point, well, somewhere else.

RwP
 

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Short lived they're glowing again. I have no idea what to do anymore :( what I did notice today when I took off my wires off the dist cap I looked under the cap and the rotor is NOT POINTING to the area where it says cylinder 1. I thought it was supposed to be pointing at that area
MG, did you finally check or have checked timing and fuel distribution? You are running super lean.
You didn't put E85 gas in there correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #92
MG, did you finally check or have checked timing and fuel distribution? You are running super lean.
You didn't put E85 gas in there correct?
I was told that on my year the timing is controlled by the pcm computer so as long as I haven't touched or moved the distributor its fixed to stay. I had to break down and pay someone to come out on Friday to put my truck on his $3000 scanner so we will see! And no only reg 87 gas
 

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I was told that on my year the timing is controlled by the pcm computer so as long as I haven't touched or moved the distributor its fixed to stay. I had to break down and pay someone to come out on Friday to put my truck on his $3000 scanner so we will see! And no only reg 87 gas
Then you were talking to someone who knows half the story. All the distributor does on these is adjust fuel synchronization.
Timing is controlled by the computer but yours is trying to make up for something that is awry somewhere else. Fuel sync, injector signal, IAT problems and a bad computer can all lend itself to what you're experiencing.
Hopefully your scanner person will pin-point the problem.
Did you ever change out the IAT sensor?
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Then you were talking to someone who knows half the story. All the distributor does on these is adjust fuel synchronization.
Timing is controlled by the computer but yours is trying to make up for something that is awry somewhere else. Fuel sync, injector signal, IAT problems and a bad computer can all lend itself to what you're experiencing.
Hopefully your
Then you were talking to someone who knows half the story. All the distributor does on these is adjust fuel synchronization.
Timing is controlled by the computer but yours is trying to make up for something that is awry somewhere else. Fuel sync, injector signal, IAT problems and a bad computer can all lend itself to what you're experiencing.
Hopefully your scanner person will pin-point the problem.
Did you ever change out the IAT sensor?
You are 100% right my ECM has a ? Mark on it so it can't read squat. I gave to send mine in to this company called solo pcm to do what they do and send it back and I put it back in $189 for that and $60 for him to tell me that. So there it is people. At least in my case wish ida know. That before spending all that money for o2 sensors map egr or whatever thats called. :(
 

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You are 100% right my ECM has a ? Mark on it so it can't read squat. I gave to send mine in to this company called solo pcm to do what they do and send it back and I put it back in $189 for that and $60 for him to tell me that. So there it is people. At least in my case wish ida know. That before spending all that money for o2 sensors map egr or whatever thats called. :(
That's ok Monty. That other stuff is considered regular maintenance replacement anyway so don't fret too much about that.
I hate freakin computers in cars and all their stupid sensors it needs to read.. Give me that old distributor and coil all the time.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
So I'm wondering how much of a problem these pcm computers are and shoukd I just buy one used at an autosalvage place that happens to have my exact dakota
 

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So I'm wondering how much of a problem these pcm computers are and shoukd I just buy one used at an autosalvage place that happens to have my exact dakota
So I'm wondering how much of a problem these pcm computers are and shoukd I just buy one used at an autosalvage place that happens to have my exact dakota
Figure it this way: If you have a Dodge Dakota, its ecm will go bad within a 10-20 year period. They're not "much" of a problem imo and they're replacement is literally a plug in. They just cost too much.
As far as a junk yard purchase, yes you can but you need to match the year, tranny, engine and rear end ratio to be completely trouble free and you don't know if that used one is set to go bad as well. Catch the mileage on the donor vehicle. If its over 120,000 stay away unless they want 50 bucks for it. Make sure it still starts the donor car and is protected from precipitation and the donor vehicle not involved with a heavy front end collision.. Ask them to bring along a battery starter pack to make sure.
 

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Then you were talking to someone who knows half the story. All the distributor does on these is adjust fuel synchronization.
Timing is controlled by the computer but yours is trying to make up for something that is awry somewhere else. Fuel sync, injector signal, IAT problems and a bad computer can all lend itself to what you're experiencing.
Hopefully your scanner person will pin-point the problem.
Did you ever change out the IAT sensor?
Well, that wasn't exactly what i said.
What I did say was that "your base timing is not adjustable by the consumer. So as I do a review with my Haynes, it says that "the PCM controls the ignition timing, spark & advance characteristics for the engine." " and that I didn't think that you could check it with a timing light if you had one because there probably aren't timing marks on the balancer & the timing chain cover. I also said that I was thinking that this "would have to be checked by a dealer & IF this was the issue, the cure would be having the PCM repaired or replaced."
 

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Well, that wasn't exactly what i said.
What I did say was that "your base timing is not adjustable by the consumer. So as I do a review with my Haynes, it says that "the PCM controls the ignition timing, spark & advance characteristics for the engine." " and that I didn't think that you could check it with a timing light if you had one because there probably aren't timing marks on the balancer & the timing chain cover. I also said that I was thinking that this "would have to be checked by a dealer & IF this was the issue, the cure would be having the PCM repaired or replaced."
Of course there are marks. A consumer would be able to "tune" their vehicle with a program and a laptop. Timing would be part of the tune.
That is not the case for Monty however.
Hopefully that company will straighten out her ecm but I don't have high hopes.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Well, that wasn't exactly what i said.
What I did say was that "your base timing is not adjustable by the consumer. So as I do a review with my Haynes, it says that "the PCM controls the ignition timing, spark & advance characteristics for the engine." " and that I didn't think that you could check it with a timing light if you had one because there probably aren't timing marks on the balancer & the timing chain cover. I also said that I was thinking that this "would have to be checked by a dealer & IF this was the issue, the cure would be having the PCM repaired or replaced."
Oh I wasnt even talking about our conversation I was saying what someone else that came and looked at it said
 
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