Joined
·
2,935 Posts
They hide a bunch of stuff under the ellipsis (3 dots).
RED GLOWING HEADER PIPES!! Exhaust manifold or header leak?
121 - 139 of 139 Posts
Joined
·
63 Posts
Ok so last night I did start it up and wait long enough to see the red thru the cement in spots. To your western about idle. I looked into that too about manually changing it bit havent. The engine does kick down and one time almost stalled. I gotta do this bubble test again. What I did notice however when I once again crawled under the body. Was a hose the hose was clamped on one end and this was under the body the other end was shredded and warped but attached to nothing I've tried to find out what uts purpose is bit to no email. I thi k you said something back about the iac the idle sensor I replaced that as well awhile back.
Ugggh. I'll get under there and take a pic of this mystery hose inreally need a solution im running out of time and money and losing jobs i could never be a mechanic in real life
Ugggh. I'll get under there and take a pic of this mystery hose inreally need a solution im running out of time and money and losing jobs i could never be a mechanic in real life
Yes, they do.
It's almost a darn novel under there if you're a super moderator in a forum.
THANKFULLY I'm only that in one; I'd hate to have to ride herd on all the VS forums they're screwing up ... errr, that I'm in.
RwP
Picture would probably help some.
By "live data" I meant watching it as someone else is driving during normal driving.
The red headers really sounds like it's running lean as crap; but if the LTFT and STFT are both 0, then it's spang on. As long as it's warmed up to operating temp, anyway.
RwP
Joined
·
616 Posts
I noted in the scan tool images that the SHORT TERM ADAP is -9.4% (rich), the LONG TERM ADAP is 0% (neutral), and the ADAP MEM FACTOR is 58.6% (very, very lean). Being familiar only with STFT and LTFT, I looked up 'adaptive memory factor', and it seems to be a synonym for long term fuel trim. If the LTFT is in fact 58.6%, that thing is REALLY lean (I've never seen or read of one being over 30%; I thought that was the limit)! It makes sense the short term is rich with the long term being so lean. It would be interesting to see what trims are shown for 2000 and 3000 rpm.
Joined
·
63 Posts
Yes I learned that and when they were both on 0 its because I did it on a cold engine and then hurried up and turned it off. The 2nd time I did it the short term. Was around 4.5% im scared as hell to drive it cuz I im scared that it will catch fire or melt my stuff again. I'll take that picture though right now and label things I see so you know my orientation under the truck. Thank you so much
Omg are u serious??? Thsts why im so scared to drive it. Ill locate weird hose first thsnks!
This is happening for one or more of 6 reasons. 1. You have a vacuum leak. 2. Dirty map sensor if you hadn't changed or cleaned it (I think you said you replaced it). 3. Dirty fuel injectors. 4. Weak fuel pump. 5. Leaky pcv valve and 6. Bad pcm.
Whatever you haven't explored in this group, I'd do so.
Why you haven't gotten a P0171-74 code is puzzling at this rate leanness. The other question is why is your pcm not adapting to overcome the lean condition. Those things should show in your fuel trim. Makes me believe you're not getting enough fuel to re-distribute settings.
You have 40-50 lbs fuel pressure? Injectors look ok? Pcv valve still jiggling?
Joined
·
63 Posts
Joined
·
63 Posts
OK the pcm was bad so i BOUGHT A NEW PCM it came in yesterday I put it ft& in ysesfdxh all the live data. new one i spent 25o on one; i put it in amd its registering now. Still red hot. I gotta check again for leak . Never changed map only iac. O2s thermostat, sparkplug 3 times and wires yes in correct firing range. Never even thought about a fuel pump. There is a light tic look ing sound don't k oe if its and injector. So first things first anyone know what that hose is?
Well crap I was hoping it was my leak. Theres so many big and little hoses I can't pinpoint where it is. My sister was attempting to help me with the spark plugs and she was doing number 8 and the truck was off amd out of bowlers we heard a hissing sound like something was deflating and it stopped I habe a feeling it was something near that canister. But by that time id already had the red header pipes so ots not the cause from the beginning I just wonder if it is now
Joined
·
63 Posts
That booster hose seems kinda loose and very soft it that a hose i need to buy special or can I cut my hose I have and replace it . I think its time to go to my local junkyard this is nuts
Joined
·
616 Posts
Your sister heard a hissing sound while working on plug #8? That's at the rear of the engine on the passenger side. Behind the firewall and below the cowling is a vacuum reservoir that assists in maintaining a constant vacuum for your heater controls. If you look on the firewall, you should see a molded vacuum line that connects to the power brake booster on one end, has a tee with a line going through the firewall near the center to your heater controls, then on the passenger side goes through the firewall -- this connects to the vacuum reservoir in there.
Vacuum goes from the intake manifold through a large diameter line to the brake booster. The small line (I just described) runs from your brake booster to the vacuum reservoir. If this reservoir is cracked, or if the small line itself is cracked, it will make a hissing sound as the vacuum is lost, and I'm guessing this is what your sister heard. And this could be a significant vacuum leak into your engine, causing, or contributing to, the engine running lean. To test, disconnect this line at the brake booster and plug the opening with something temporarily.
Start the engine and see if it runs any better. (Obviously, you won't have any control over your various air control doors in your HVAC system while this line is disconnected.)
Vacuum goes from the intake manifold through a large diameter line to the brake booster. The small line (I just described) runs from your brake booster to the vacuum reservoir. If this reservoir is cracked, or if the small line itself is cracked, it will make a hissing sound as the vacuum is lost, and I'm guessing this is what your sister heard. And this could be a significant vacuum leak into your engine, causing, or contributing to, the engine running lean. To test, disconnect this line at the brake booster and plug the opening with something temporarily.
Start the engine and see if it runs any better. (Obviously, you won't have any control over your various air control doors in your HVAC system while this line is disconnected.)
A regular emission grade hose that size will do just fine. It needs to run up though; I don't know where it runs to on your age truck, maybe someone can point out where.
Or if you have the factory service manual, it should show where it runs.
RwP
Joined
·
63 Posts
Thank you I will do that Lthough every person keeps saying my engine sounds really good I hope I can tell a difference. Your instructions are awesome will do!
Joined
·
63 Posts
Hi there I'm changing out what I hope are vacuum hoses the blue ones are the new ones so far is the one that the evap service port know a vacuum hose? Cuz I see this crack but its got something g hard throughout it not like the others
Thanks!
Attachments
Joined
·
616 Posts
If the hoses you replaced were cracked, you have solved some vacuum leaks. The blue hose that runs vertically from your brake booster goes to the vacuum reservoir. The small black device in the middle of that blue hose is a check valve that only allows air to flow one way -- toward the booster and engine. You can see the tee near the center top of the photo where the vacuum is teed off toward the HVAC controls.
The second blue hose runs from the intake manifold to the evap canister purge valve. The second port on that valve goes to the charcoal canister in the evaporative emission system. The small green cap is where you can connect a vacuum source or a smoke machine to test the evap system. Note that the vacuum hose connected to the base of that tee with the green cap looks like it's cracked too. You may want to splice a short piece of vacuum line in there, or replace the line, but I think it may be hard to get to the whole line.
If you find some of the hoses to be hard, it's because they are over 20 years old and have been exposed to the heat and fumes in the engine compartment, which will make rubber hard. About 3 - 4 years ago, I replaced almost all the vacuum hoses in my engine compartment. It stopped my check engine light from coming on every couple of weeks with evap leak codes (P0442, P0456, etc.).
The second blue hose runs from the intake manifold to the evap canister purge valve. The second port on that valve goes to the charcoal canister in the evaporative emission system. The small green cap is where you can connect a vacuum source or a smoke machine to test the evap system. Note that the vacuum hose connected to the base of that tee with the green cap looks like it's cracked too. You may want to splice a short piece of vacuum line in there, or replace the line, but I think it may be hard to get to the whole line.
If you find some of the hoses to be hard, it's because they are over 20 years old and have been exposed to the heat and fumes in the engine compartment, which will make rubber hard. About 3 - 4 years ago, I replaced almost all the vacuum hoses in my engine compartment. It stopped my check engine light from coming on every couple of weeks with evap leak codes (P0442, P0456, etc.).
Joined
·
63 Posts
Ok so all the ones you noted are indeed vaccuumines I can replace?
Montygirl, just checked in to see how this was working out for you. Quite a bit of reading to catch up on. Did a vacuum leak turn out to be the root cause of your ills & did replacing vacuum line solve your issues?
121 - 139 of 139 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!