Dakota Forumz banner

1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 01 dakota 3.9 automatic 2wd an need to reinstall /replace driveshaft to yoke correctly .

It came out from the overdrive in a accident an was still in drive in the rear diff ..
A shop said its fixable but needs new leaf springs an driveshaft.

How would I need to go about lining it back up so its correct on new driveshaft ,yoke,an splines?
I think the rear is still in drive,an front gear is in park , but I wont know till I support it an turn the wheels.Its not a LSD diff.

I cant recall when replacing overdrive if theres a mark I can go by to realign it but I'll look.

I just need to be sure what gear the rear is in before reinstalling new driveshaft . Its rolled around some with shaft out of overdrive.
Any info is appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,266 Posts
Hidden1 - Your post makes no sense.

OD, park, drive - that's in the TRANSMISSION. There's nothing to do with the driveshaft.

There are spring lands on the rear axle, positioning pins (a bolt through) on the spring, and a matching hole in the spring mount; it'll all line up automatically.

You don't "remove the overdrive" on a 2001 automatic; it's the whole tail shaft.

The rear end gear does not change because it rolled around.

That's if I figured out what you're trying to say while using terms completely wrongly.

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
I think I might understand what you are trying to say. #1, don’t worry about anything in the diff as far as being in drive. There are no gears in the differential that shift. That is all done in the transmission. #2 I think what you are thinking about is the drive shaft being in/out of “phase” -this is only referring to the balance of the driveshaft itself. You are installing a new driveshaft, so it should be balanced. A rule of thumb that I go by is put the back yoke in the same position as the front when installing the drive shaft. All you have to do there is get the rear tires off the ground and turn the rear yoke. If the ears of the front are at 3o’clock and 9o’clock then make the back look the same. Now, if you have an extended cab, then you have a two piece driveshaft with a driveshaft support bearing. Just to the rear of the driveshaft support bearing is a sliding joint where the rear driveshaft slides over the front(splined). That could be a bit of an irritation. On the rear, inside the sleeve, there will be 1 too the missing. The rear should slide over the front smoothly. If it doesn’t, the turn rear 1 tooth and try again. A tale tell sign will be that on the front, there will be two splines that appear clean. That is where it fits. As far as leaf springs go, the easiest way I have found to do that is to completely disconnect the driveshaft and leaf spring from the truck and roll it all out as a unit. Take off old springs, put on new springs, roll back under. The short end of the leaf springs go forward. The axle is not centered on the springs. Short side forward. As far as springs and axle go. The leaf spring are bolted together at the point where it mates on the spring perch on the axle. You will see a hole in the spring perch. That is where the nut goes, in the hole. Here is what I do. I put the U-Bolts and plate on. The U-Bolt nut are on just enough to hold 3 or 4 threads. Then slide the spring into the gap between the ubolts making sure the short end is forward, I then start to tighten the nuts, closing the gap and pulling the spring closer the the spring perch on the axle. This give my plenty of time and control to ensure that all the dowels go into all the hole properly. Tighten the nuts until all the dowels are in the holes but leave loose enough to adjust the leaf springs later. Roll the assembly back under the truck. Attach the front of the leaf springs on both sides. At this point either lower the truck into the springs(most difficult) or raise the differential until spring is in place to mount the rear(easier method) do one side, then the other. Now, remember we left those U.bolts a little loos right? That is so when mounting the springs to the shackles, the spring were free to pivot on those dowels in the holes. They are still loose!!! Now tightened the holy crap out of those U-bolt nuts. Do it in an Xpattern and in increments. As example I’ll use a 1-10 scale. Tighten them all at a 2, then to a 4, then to a 6 then 8 then 10. Don’t worry about “overtightening” those. Almost impossible. Make em super tight. Then re attach shocks, brake lines, electrical connectors and now your good to go. Don’t worry about aligning anything. It will self align. I just put in a 9 1/4 rear with 3.92 under my truck, and this is how I did it. Biggest tip is, stop over thinking this. It’s really not a big deal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Wow.it isnt too much of a factor then.Great to know.
So should I put it back into drive as it was last time it was running then install shaft or just leave it in park an put in in?
Yea sorry if I worded it in a confusing way.
This is a 2wd .an yes I did put in another overdrive unit a year ago ,.an I marked the splines on driveshaft end for a easy reinstall.
Thanks for the great tips.!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,266 Posts
Swapped the OD on the transmission, or added an additional one?

Since you had overdrive already ...

I'd have it out of park so I could turn the drive shaft; it doesn't matter what gear the transmission is set to otherwise.

RwP
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,266 Posts
Ah.

But yah, it's not in ANY gear save park or not-park if the motor isn't running; all not-park are equal to neutral due to no hydraulic fluid being pumped around.

RwP
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top