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Correct
Hope they broke before the block and not inside.
The trick here is to spray the bolts w Liquid Wrench for a couple days before they get loosened. Makes it way easier.
I would recommend Kroil.
Kroil makes Liquid Wrench seem like cool Kool Aid.
If they are broken off flush in the head, drilling them with a left handed drill bit before you bang in an Easy-Out might help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
They are both flush. Drilled the one out, broke my bit on the other. So, will need to get a new one. Drivers side came out smooth, no breaks.
I would recommend Kroil.
Kroil makes Liquid Wrench seem like cool Kool Aid.
If they are broken off flush in the head, drilling them with a left handed drill bit before you bang in an Easy-Out might help.
Well thats what happened. The easy out is what broke off in the bolt we drilled with the left hand bit 🤦‍♂️
 

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They are both flush. Drilled the one out, broke my bit on the other. So, will need to get a new one. Drivers side came out smooth, no breaks.

Well thats what happened. The easy out is what broke off in the bolt we drilled with the left hand bit 🤦‍♂️
Yuk.
Broken off Easy Outs are tough.
 

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I was concerned about that possibility. By design easy outs are very brittle and snap off at the worst times. The only thing I like less is a snapped off tap. Again we are heading down the rat hole. If you pull the head a good machine shop should be able to EDM the easy out and bolt without issue. My next concern is the condition of the head. Both my heads were cracked one so tiny it was near impossible to locate. When working on trucks with so many miles there is a surprise under every rock. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
I was concerned about that possibility. By design easy outs are very brittle and snap off at the worst times. The only thing I like less is a snapped off tap. Again we are heading down the rat hole. If you pull the head a good machine shop should be able to EDM the easy out and bolt without issue. My next concern is the condition of the head. Both my heads were cracked one so tiny it was near impossible to locate. When working on trucks with so many miles there is a surprise under every rock. Steve
They are definitely the gifts that keep on giving. I went and got some new bits, so the work will continue today. If all else fails, pulling the head will become a necessity, although, im trying to avoid that if possible. Eventually I'll have to pull them, but im trying to not have to today.
 

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Take it from me, it takes a very good bit to drill an easy out. I have had some luck using a 1/4 inch Masonary bit. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
If you have a variable speed drill turn it slow and keep good pressure to keep it cutting. Steve
Got it all out and the headers installed. It took some definite doing and some not so nice language, but it came out. New headers are on so gonna go see if i can notice any difference
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Automotive parking light Tire Car Automotive side marker light Wheel


As a follow on to the previous post. The headers seem to be working pretty well. Truck is running great, seems to have a bit more power probably not as much as they claim. But i can feel a bit of an improvement. But here is a picture of my pride and joy
 

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Got it all out and the headers installed. It took some definite doing and some not so nice language, but it came out. New headers are on so gonna go see if i can notice any difference
Good job!
After I read that last night, I was seriously thinking that you were going to need to pull the head & go at it with a high-speed with a carbide ball on it to grind that busted EZ Out away & then re-drill.

Just out of curiosity, how did you wind up getting the broken bolt (with broken EZ Out) out?
 

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View attachment 3739

As a follow on to the previous post. The headers seem to be working pretty well. Truck is running great, seems to have a bit more power probably not as much as they claim. But i can feel a bit of an improvement. But here is a picture of my pride and joy
That is a nice looking Dak you have there
Good job getting those headers on her!

(On edit: what brand is that cow catcher?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
View attachment 3739

As a follow on to the previous post. The headers seem to be working pretty well. Truck is running great, seems to have a bit more power probably not as much as they claim. But i can feel a bit of an improvement. But here is a picture of my pride and joy
Me and my brother worked on it a good chunk of the morning. We started out drilling on it with a masonry bit, then used a bur bit in a dremel. Ill admit we got lucky on it. But it came out.
 

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Me and my brother worked on it a good chunk of the morning. We started out drilling on it with a masonry bit, then used a bur bit in a dremel. Ill admit we got lucky on it. But it came out.
Yeah, some type of "burr bit" was what I was thinking of when I typed "carbide ball".
And a Dremel would have been a better choice than the high speed I was thinking of.

Anyway: good job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
Yeah, some type of "burr bit" was what I was thinking of when I typed "carbide ball".
And a Dremel would have been a better choice than the high speed I was thinking of.

Anyway: good job!
Thanks, i started out with the goal of making the engine more efficient, so i feel the headers with the dual exhaust i have ran for years will help in that. I am still strongly considering the 1.7 Roller Rockers, but thatll.be another $300 bill. So may wait until after the holidays for that one. Other than that though, i do intend to upgrade to a K&N air filter, had thought about it for years but never wanted to pay that kinda money. But now that im a little older and very slightly wiser, i see that with what ive spent on paper filters all these years i couoda bought the KN a dozen times over.
 

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View attachment 3739

Truck is running great, seems to have a bit more power probably not as much as they claim. But i can feel a bit of an improvement.
I was reading a thread, on the other Dakota/Durango Forum, about installing headers, & there was a post to the effect that the higher you ran the RPMs at, the greater the improvement you would feel. Not that I am saying that you should take it out & run it pedal to the metal, but just in case. . . .

Back in the 70s when I wanted to put headers on my stuff, I couldn't afford it.
Now that I can afford stuff like that, I am a little bit leery about the extra heat inside the engine compartment. I enjoy the feeling of performance when I put my foot into it, but in my old age, reliability is my highest priority. Not only that, my RT does not have what I would call a true dual exhaust--the Y pipe goes into 1 cat & then into a magnaflow (via one inlet) & out two outlets. So, besides the sound, I don't know if that exhaust actually does anything else.

As far as the K&N you mentioned, I did put that on mine back in '16. It ran good before I put it on, & it runs good with it on, however I don't know if it actually runs better with it than without it. I can hear it "sucking" now (like in the old days when we would put our aircleaner covers on upside down). Don't quote me on this, but I seem to remember K&N saying that it was supposed to add around 15 HP in the 5000 RPM range. I seldom run at 5k, & as I just typed, don't quote me because this is coming totally from my memory. It does feel as if when I do stand on it, & as the RPMs pick up, when it gets in to the higher RPMs it actually starts to feel like the revs start climbing quicker than before I put it on, but then again, that could be wishful thinking as I have no true way of measuring it.

On other discussion boards I have read nothing but negativity about the "Cold-Air" systems, but I believe a lot of it is negativity for the sake of negativity. Personally, I would think that if the engine was sucking increased air, the PCM would then have to tell the injectors to shovel in more coals, & I would think that would have to do something.
But I could be wrong about that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I was reading a thread, on the other Dakota/Durango Forum, about installing headers, & there was a post to the effect that the higher you ran the RPMs at, the greater the improvement you would feel. Not that I am saying that you should take it out & run it pedal to the metal, but just in case. . . .

Back in the 70s when I wanted to put headers on my stuff, I couldn't afford it.
Now that I can afford stuff like that, I am a little bit leery about the extra heat inside the engine compartment. I enjoy the feeling of performance when I put my foot into it, but in my old age, reliability is my highest priority. Not only that, my RT does not have what I would call a true dual exhaust--the Y pipe goes into 1 cat & then into a magnaflow (via one inlet) & out two outlets. So, besides the sound, I don't know if that exhaust actually does anything else.

As far as the K&N you mentioned, I did put that on mine back in '16. It ran good before I put it on, & it runs good with it on, however I don't know if it actually runs better with it than without it. I can hear it "sucking" now (like in the old days when we would put our aircleaner covers on upside down). Don't quote me on this, but I seem to remember K&N saying that it was supposed to add around 15 HP in the 5000 RPM range. I seldom run at 5k, & as I just typed, don't quote me because this is coming totally from my memory. It does feel as if when I do stand on it, & as the RPMs pick up, when it gets in to the higher RPMs it actually starts to feel like the revs start climbing quicker than before I put it on, but then again, that could be wishful thinking as I have no true way of measuring it.

On other discussion boards I have read nothing but negativity about the "Cold-Air" systems, but I believe a lot of it is negativity for the sake of negativity. Personally, I would think that if the engine was sucking increased air, the PCM would then have to tell the injectors to shovel in more coals, & I would think that would have to do something.
But I could be wrong about that.
I had looked before and couldnt find a true cold air intake for my truck, i could probably repurpose one from a 318 and make it work, but in the meantime ill just use the drop in replacement filter.

I never run my truck past 2000 to 2500 RPMs but it definitely felt stronger there today than it had in the past. And i would agree that the more air that goes in the PCM should increase fuel to match, assuming the injectors can keep up. Which shouldnt be a problem as the engine is still mostly stock
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Well, i did some looking and i have found a cam upgrade for this truck. So now im leaning towards going with the 1.6 RRs and a cam. If i go with the 1.7s the cam wont work without additional work. So i got some studying to do.
 

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Well, i did some looking and i have found a cam upgrade for this truck. So now im leaning towards going with the 1.6 RRs and a cam. If i go with the 1.7s the cam wont work without additional work. So i got some studying to do.
would you be able to link that cam? I've recently been looking into a cam just for the hell of it for my new motor build, and I can't seem to find anywhere that sells em anymore. Could have sworn Hughes sold one for the 3.9 but it doesn't show up
 

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I had looked before and couldnt find a true cold air intake for my truck, i could probably repurpose one from a 318 and make it work, but in the meantime ill just use the drop in replacement filter.
The second half of the SNF game wasn't close & I was bored so I did a couple of cursory checks.
I would think that the determining factor on whether you could make that work or not would be the diameter/circumference of the top of the throttle bodies. I would think that you could make modifications to make up for other differences. (I could be wrong about that.)

It looks like you would have to go back to '99 to get a 318 Dak set up. According to Rock Auto, the ID for that "air cleaner gasket" (which I am assuming is the circular gasket between the TB & the bottom of the air cleaner box set up) is 5 1/32" and Rocks PN ifor a Felpro is 60038.

For your '03 3.9, Rock isn't saying what the ID of the gasket is, but their PN for the Felpro for that engine is 61216. Making me think it is a different diameter at the top of the TB. (I could be wrong about that also.)

But: Rock's PN for an '03 5.9 Felpro "air cleaner gasket" is the same as the one for your '03 3.9 (61216). Making me think that if you were going to go that route, a K&N CAI set up for a 5.9 would be the one to try.

I can tell you from previous experience that K&N is pretty forgiving about returns, & it's a longer story than you want to hear, but back in '14 I did buy a K&N CAI set up (from Advance) for my '94 Fire Bird, which did not fit because the ABS module was in the way, & although I had practically destroyed the box it came in & Advance didn't want it back, K&N still took care of me directly.

However: right now K&N shows "out of stock" for the CAI for the '03 5.9.
But, if you want, I can go out & measure the OD of the top of my TB for you to compare yours with. Let me know.

As far as the K&N drop in, I put one in my '02 GMC & I did that shortly after I bought it back in '02 or '03 & it is still there. All I do is periodically clean it & oil it, so if your goal is not to buy anymore paper filters, that will definitely do the trick.
 
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