Still on the emission stiff but reinstall issues

3889 Views 6 Replies 2 Participants Last post by RBG, Dec 17, 2016

RBG

Discussion Starter · Dec 14, 2016 (Edited)

Still on the emission stuff but reinstall issues

OK, I have ordered the leak pump and have removed the battery tray and removed the leak pump from the tray. for those who may attempt this..the leak pump is attached to tray with three screws and to get the tray out after removing the bolts(3) that hold it down and disconnecting a plug(I'll ask about later) you have to raise the fuse box and pry the tray past things on all sides..not easy but doable.

Now for my reinstall issues. It seems like someone has messed with some of the tubes to this set up. The tubes that come form the purge valve are "T-ed" together about two feet pic 1 from where the tube goes into the bottom of the throttle/carb/intake setup..like it should . But the two lines coming from the purge valve being T-ed doesn't seem correct. The bottom line of the purge valve is the one that is the main/straight line into the intake..the upper line is the one that is T-ed into that line..see the first two pics. Note the bottom of the purge valve is toward the top of the pic..confusing sorry.

The lines from the gas tank canister seem correct, see pic. Then there is a another big tube coming from the canister thing in the pic going to the bottom of the leak pump (pic 2) and then big tube coming from the gas tank. (pic 3 as well toward the back bottom of the big) The small line from the gas tank goes into the top of the leak pump(pic 3). Then there is a loop tube going from the top port into a bottom port on the leak pump (pic 4) something not right but what??? See diagram??? pic 5

Note on the small tube/line coming from the gas tank there is a "T' with a cap on it should it be there or should the tube ??from the purge valve on it instead and the 'T' at the purge valve line be capped????

So anyone have an unmolested emission set up they can look at.. the diagrams I have seem so far don't make anything clear to me. And if my tubes are not connected correctly..could that be my issues and I don't need a new leak pump!!!!

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oldmarine

· #2 · Dec 14, 2016

I replaced most of the smaller diameter vacuum hoses on my 2003 Dakota a couple of years ago, and everything is working properly. This is how mine is set up:

The large diameter hose from the canister is connected to the bottom of the leak detection pump, as you stated and showed in the images.

The smaller diameter hose from the canister has a servicing port with a schrader valve and green cap teed into it, and then it goes to one port of the purge solenoid (I can't tell which port without dismantling the setup because the hoses run behind/below the battery tray). The servicing port is where they connect the smoke machine to troubleshoot leaks.

The vacuum hose coming from the throttle body has a tee fitting, one side going to the second port on the purge solenoid, and the other side going to the smaller port on the leak detection pump. In the schematic diagram, this would be the equivalent of teeing line 12 into line 10. So the leak detection pump gets its vacuum from the throttle body (like the purge solenoid) instead of from the intake manifold.

The U-shaped line from the top to the bottom of the leak detection pump is correct. This line is not shown on the schematic. Your new pump may come with this line already installed.

You said that the two lines from the purge solenoid were teed together and then to the throttle body vacuum port? That is definitely wrong.

And if the smaller line from the canister was connected to the leak detector pump, that is also wrong. That would mean that the leak detection pump has no vacuum source to perform its function. I would guess that would trigger the P1494 code, because the pump could not respond to the ECM commands.

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RBG

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 14, 2016

WOW..you are the man .just what I needed..I knew someone really screwed up the tubes..big time..so now just that last detail which tube goes to which port on the purge valve..see pic>>>for what is the purge valve. Can ANYONE??? trace one of the tubes from it to it's other end..and post the answer..if so I'll be sure to put this all together in one post so the next guy has an easier time of it..

Maybe I'll see if a Dodge service guy would give me the answer I'll try tomorrow is no one shows up with an answer today here.

I would hate to have to drive around like an crazy guy to see if the check engine light stays off not knowing if it really is the tubes just wrong on the purge valve or maybe the leak detection pump is really bad or I guess it could be the purge valve too just bad or both.

One would think Dodge could have made things easier by color coding the tubes and ports or numbering them....something..

THANKS AGAIN Oldmarine you have saved my bacon!!! If you are ever in AZ a case of beer or dinner out is waiting..

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oldmarine

· #4 · Dec 15, 2016

I just checked my purge valve with a mirror, and the bottom port (furthermost from the electrical connector) is marked "VAC", so I'm sure I connected the line from the throttle body vacuum port to that port. My purge valve looks more like the pic you posted in the other thread, where the ports are more included in the body than projecting out like the picture above.
Check on your purge valve to see if one of the ports is labeled.

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RBG

Discussion Starter · #5 · Dec 15, 2016

Thanks, again..I will check it as soon as the sun comes up still dark here!!!

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RBG

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 15, 2016

Maybe good news. I got all the lines put back on per the above info and took her out for a test 50 mile run to re-set the emissions chip..got her home and NO check engine light. I'll take her out again tomorrow to be sure but so far so good.. all this hassle because idiot took the lines off and just shoved them back on any-old-way..##[email protected]@##**!!! and here's a schematic of the system..hope it makes sense and you can read it...

Basics: large tube from the fuel tank canister goes to the back side bottom on the fuel leak detector pump(FLDP))and other large tube comes from the filter and goes to the other side of the FLDP toward the bottom. The small tube coming from the fuel tank canister goes to the small port on the purge valve not marked "vac"..

The small tube coming from from the throttle intake the one with the "y" split in it and the green smoke tester cap..one leg goes to the solenoid pump/purge valve's port marked "vac" and the other goes to the FLDP's small port near it's top.

The FLEP is located on/actual screwed to it the battery tray's rear wall and the whole tray has to removed to get at it. The purge valve on my 2002 was located next to the battery and hung on a rubber sleeve that attached to the battery tray as well but was easy to take off w/o removing anything else.

AND AGAIN MANY THANKS TO Oldmarine!!!!

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RBG

Discussion Starter · #7 · Dec 17, 2016

WAHOO!! passed emissions legal to drive...THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP.. Now if I just get the FLDP back into place I just stuffed it into an open spot to run my check and didn't want to disturb anything before I got the actual emission test completed..It's a really poor design for maintenance. Like trying to fit a size 12 foot into a size 8 shoe!! The issue is that the fuse box is in the way and really can't be moved very far due to the large bundle of wires going in and out at the front AND back of the box. I didn't try tilting it up..just thought of that so that may solve the problem of reinstall for the FLDP!! I'll report back...

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Still on the emission stiff but reinstall issues

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