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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
We have had good time putting together a message thread about the 3.9 V6 engine build looking for a little more power. As we know an engine is nothing more than a air pump. The greater the volume of air that passes thought the greater the power produced. As they say I have tried to think out of the box and color between the lines. I'm not sure this is the place to drop it but here we go. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After pulling the engine and tranny I split them and to my surprise the clutch assembly is rusty as if it was out side in a junk yard. It has functioned prefect fine the last 20,000 miles. The second surprise was the amount of oil and gunk in the tranny bell housing. It would seem there was awful rear main seal leak and a engine swap happened. We know how I feel about clean parts. Brae clean would not touch it. Putty knife, varsol and a still brush. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Do not think for a minute they come out from under looking like this. Does it bother me that I have three four hour days in cleaning this thing? Making me happy is my toughest job. The new 12 inch clutch kit came with the TO bearing. I went ahead and ordered the arm and ball pin. I had no complaints with the clutch till close to the pull. Same with the belt system. After pulling into the shop and opening the hood while running there was a loud click from front of engine. I sprayed belt dressing and it became a loud squeal. I shut it down and started the pull? Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It's funny I was so shocked at the condition of the inside of the bell housing I failed to take a picture. Take my word for it she's better now. The clutch kit came with a very tight fitting alignment tool. Two of us were able to slip the tranny right into place. I continue to clean and wire brush apply a drop of Loc-tite and torque wrench to fasteners. I noticed Arrow offered Nate advice on header gaskets. I sent my SS headers out and had the plates surfaced just to be sure. I think I'll order a set of the header gaskets. Steve
 

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It's funny I was so shocked at the condition of the inside of the bell housing I failed to take a picture. Take my word for it she's better now. The clutch kit came with a very tight fitting alignment tool. Two of us were able to slip the tranny right into place. I continue to clean and wire brush apply a drop of Loc-tite and torque wrench to fasteners. I noticed Arrow offered Nate advice on header gaskets. I sent my SS headers out and had the plates surfaced just to be sure. I think I'll order a set of the header gaskets. Steve
Yeah i should be getting the headers today, and then ordering the gaskets. So hopefully this will give me something to do while im off for Christmas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
My good friend Mr Bill is concerned about my ability to see after dark. So I ordered these for him to install if he likes. Can't help but think this will be an improvement. I have washed with soap and water, wiped down with WD40 rag, worked with polishing compound and waxed the inner fenders and fire wall. I have sanded and touched up paint on the frame horns. Once back in place the engine makes working under here tough. So the front brake hoses and the hard pipe gets replaced. The right front to the block below the drivers feet, hard line is about 6 feet ling with about 100 bends. There is a three inch section that is rust affected on both front hard lines. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
These lines were not replaced with the brake/ suspension earlier refresh. I feel better about the brakes but now realize my ball joints only lasted 20, 000 miles. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I should have started in this corner, saving the best for last. There is a large dia evac hose below the battery box. I'm getting tired of this work but expect it to pay off later. There has to be something more interesting. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
How cool is that? I used to call this the "Put a V8 in it Forum" and I have read the get a V8 TB and 180 thermostat and good to go. I'm thinking this is more in line with the balance of my effort. The three are my truck with 176,000 miles, the core engine after my cleaning from about the same condition and the modified one. If that don't scream "look here, you found that 20HP" I don't know what would? What to do? Bend a length of all thread and a jam nut or thread some stainless rod? To create a air cleaner bonnet hold down. That developing a better air pump begins right here. Remember I'm not building a rocket ship I want to be comfortable towing a 2000 lb trailer with race car in fourth gear around 3000 rpm and if I need to pass, a slight rise will not send me backwards. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I didn't realize these things have an idle adjustment screw. I guess there is a lot I don't know. Wondering if my lifter valley splash shield and Keg plate will stop the vacuum leak and oil in the Keg. There should be nothing but clean air in there. Steve
 

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I didn't realize these things have an idle adjustment screw. I guess there is a lot I don't know. Wondering if my lifter valley splash shield and Keg plate will stop the vacuum leak and oil in the Keg. There should be nothing but clean air in there. Steve
The lifter valley plate, or lack thereof, won't make any difference.

The keg plate will help.

Add an oil canister to the PCV valve line and that'll help the last bit; there's some vapor sucked in through there also.

RwP
 
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