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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
While we chew on that I'm on to the drive shaft. It has been awhile since I rebuilt a drive shaft. I did not take before pictures. It appeared to be the only thing under the truck rusty. I loaded my small pot blaster with glass bead and blasted the yokes paying special attention to the u joint cups and retainers. Then sprayed PB blaster all over the u joints. I used the 20 ton press to remove the u joints. The center support bearing rubber was in poor condition but pressing the bearing off required the full size and ability of my press. The center support bearing sounds dry and has a kind of rattle. There was one u joint that was stiff. I wire brush and paint, seems an easy way to reduce rust. The replacement u joints have a zerk joint to grease. The wheel cyl hone is to dress up the u joint cup bores. Steve
 

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I plan to build a magnum 3.9L for my 88 Dakota with, we'll call it a vintage twist (I'll leave that implication up to the imagination of others), watching your motor build closely along with the rest of what you do with the truck. Just found out about your project through RalphP and I gotta say, enjoying it so far 🙂
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Thanks, we have had a good time sharing the efforts. Ralph and the Mature Marine are both long timers and full of information they are glad to share. I haven't done a drive shaft since 2000. I went to a drive shaft shop for my parts rather than see where Rock Auto ones are made. In order to assemble the caps need to come off. Three in the boxes and sealed plastic bags. One had a dab of black grease, one a dab of clear grease and the third almost no grease.

For those interested in the throttle body story. I made first contact with Richard in April and like so many he was having materials and equipment issues. He was great about talking to me about my planned project. Once he was able to supply a modified V6 throttle body it was on the way. While it looked good I wanted more info. I had a std and the modified units flow tested. The guy testing suggested he could get another 12/15 CFM by further thinning the throttle shaft and working the screws to match. Richards reason for not, is his concern for issues with turbo or super charged units. After testing the std unit at 518 CFM followed by the modified unit at 685 CFM. I have mentioned several times how much I love math (not) but that's somewhere around 30 percent improvement. The flow bench guy decided not to mess with someone else's work. It seems it's possible to work one from 500 CFM to 700 CFM. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
A couple things these give a good idea of the rust pitting the shaft has suffered over the years. The lower shaft has a section that does not show rust. A simple sticker has been there all these years, makes me think what a little paint would do. I mentioned a tight u joint and after assembly the pinion yoke the one on the right in lower picture was snug. I tried to seat the cups again with no improvement. I removed one snap ring reduced it's thickness by .0025 replaced and seated cup still not right did same to other snap ring and the joint feels right. Oh yeah you can see the amount clear grease pushed out by the grease gun. I keep pumping till grease escapes all caps. Joints without zerk joints are one and done grease, these should be good for awhile. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
That is not rust on the support bearing strap. That is fish eye and I did not do much prep on it. I do so many CV joints I bought the tool for setting these boot straps. I should have known the booster/master would have to come out. Starting with that in mind would have moved things along. May as well do some more brake lines. All I wanted to do was change the clutch hydrulics. That crazy little switch on the clutch push rod is a hoot as well. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Removing the brake booster revealed a small rust area and some cleaning to do. Sanded the rusted area primed and painted. Polishing compound and wax other wise. The clutch kit includes a new push rod. It is half plastic with a new bushing. I plan to swap the bushing and reuse the org. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
That's the no start without pressing clutch switch. A lot of fun to try and remove in position. Do not break it as they are $70/$80 each. Mine is half broken, there are two tiny coil springs to return contacts to off position. One was broken in a couple places and overlapping it's self. I removed the broken spring, cleaned and lubed the slide and it works fine. Better understanding the design of the part changing in position will not be that bad. While there will be more parts, I'm not waiting for any more parts before installing the engine. The clutch hydraulics are now in place fire wall repaired and cleaned waiting for the paint to dry on booster spacer. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
I have picked up some 1/4 - 20 sleeve nuts in stainless and will have them welded to my stainless headers to mount stainless heat shields some what like the factory ones. It appears they try to protect the booster and the PCM from direct heat. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
Don't know why I always start on the easy side. Upper pic I have removed all the old tape cleaned the cover and wires taped and rehung harness. The lower pic is mostly the engine harness and yet touched. If you remove a couple layers of old tape the joints look much better. In for a dime in for a dollar. Out with the old and in with the new. I did complete the right engine bank before coming home. I believe it's an improvement and looks better if nothing else. A couple more hours on that board and I can start installing the engine. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
What is this stuff and how long did it take? You have to look under every rock. Hands taking a beating tried to cut that index off with the scissors just the end! I have opened all junctions cleaned tubes and wires, all connectors that will meet new sensors. Checked that all wires were tight in their connector, wrapped sealed the ends and resealed unions. I have the four at the very back right in this pic. yet to do and it's engine in the air looking for a lifting point. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Not sure if it's my age or the new norm. It seems to take me three days to complete a days work. While I do not enjoy electrical work, several days spent were worthwhile. I went in without headers and motor mounts. The oil filter was almost in the way. The crossed chains a ratchet strap to adjust angle until the tranny could ride the jack back into place. New mounts at all three positions.
I attempted to hammer form heat shields for the headers on the work bench. I was not happy with the out come so I'll install the headers and see what shape shields will take. Under hood temps are not my friend and having spent so much time under there I'm beginning to see how much effort went into directing air. Steve
 
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