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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I wasn't kidding I had SS sleeve nuts welded to the header in order to mount heat shields. Not sure it will work like I expect but I'm trying. Once the shields are done the headers go in for the last time. And the shields can come and go as I like. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
The right side header comes close to the plastic inner fender. No points for artistic ability, there are so many nice things about stainless. While I have shear, brake and Pexto bench no roller. I want it snug to the pipes but not touching. Locating the holes were fun and this is my first attempt, I have plenty material and friend with a roller so some blanks can be made to play with. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
I can run my fingers between the shield and plastic, on which side should I have the Teflon coating applied to? The left side is a walk in the park and while out of sight will be my best, may redo the other but can't look back. This is the card stock template and is about to be a SS cut out. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Yeah, a walk in the park. Form follows function, design never ends. That is the first of three times that template was taped down. The shield has a ridge and a tuck to avoid vibration and stiffen. I had thought running right up to the cyl head was best. Then realized that may concentrate heat when stationary along the already over stressed lower edge of valve cover gasket. The factory shields leave space for heat to escape in that area. While doing more than they did I'd not do less. Suddenly there is an awful lot going on under the hood. I'm not crazy about the color of the heater hose but it has a nice liner and the molded one from Rock was 3 inches short. I wasn't sure the power steering pump could come and go with header in place. Once header installed, torqued and loc-tite made up steering plumbing and installed pulley. Anti freeze now comes in colors. I have to buy that the power steering fluid and transmission fluid. Any good ideas along those lines? Steve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
There you go Nate, I had not tightened that side. The top is as supplied by header people, next the one Arrow suggested followed by Fel-Pro. Once in place I lifted the gasket upward and tightened. Bottom my heat shields in SS polished on other side. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Exhaust gasket is hanging on a couple of studs waiting for the header. It's not clear but as mentioned by lifting up the ports line exactly with the port matching I did. The under drive pulley kit did not happen to mention a belt of unknown length would be required. I could clearly pinch more than an inch. I now know more than I had expected I'd need to about serpentine belts. Got it first shot and lucky is also good. If anyone recalls my concerns about oil capacity it's level on jack stands with how many qts in and oil shows the width of the line above full. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 · (Edited)
While I have continued to work to make this my truck, it's not the work I love. I spent so much time sitting under the hood cleaning and prepping for the new engine. Thank you Ralph and Nate, the engine compartment does look good. I have a roll around crane which seems perfect for lifting the bed. I tend to work alone it's sometimes safer. Reason for lifting the bed was to access the gas tank. I'm very glad I went this route as there was a lot of cleaning to be done in the area. All the factory heat shields were in rough shape, scraper wire wheel steel wool and SOS pads. I was so pleased there were only 4/5 small plastic pc in the tank as well as 4.5 gallons of gas. The old fuel pumps filter pad is a dark color, the one on the new pump is as white as the case. I still need to install the cam position sensor as well as both O2 sensors, connect the battery and wake the girl up. Yes, I see the rear end and all that mess around it. I have decided to wait on the rear end until we see what comes of all the work done so far. If the 3.55 gear works well for my towing needs it can stay get rebuilt with posi. If not a posi with a 3.9 ring and pinion if no 3,7 is available will take it's place. Steve

Edit: I'm sure many of us have and do use Rock Auto as a source. I have a big stack of packing slips from them. It has gone well for so long but recently not so good. So far and all recently power steering pulley, plug wire set, cam position sensor, both O 2s, have been missing something, boxed wrong or just plain wrong.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
This is a follow up thread to my 3.9 V 6 engine build. What can I tell you? Ralph suggested we crank and run the engine while the bed was removed in case of a pump issue. About the pump, having owned the truck for 20,000 miles I have had to turn on the key listen for the pump to shut off, cycle it again and then start the truck. In the truck with doors and windows shut I could clearly hear the pump running up to pressure. With windows and doors open and bed removed it's very hard to hear the new pump at all and the run up time is very short. About the gas tank and the low fuel light. I had no plan to run the new pump dry so I added gas to a empty tank. Knowing I had waited for the light to come on and drove a couple more days before removing engine and removed 4.5 gallons from tank I added 4 gallons and checked. Yes the light came on after a short wait. I added 2 more gallons and the lamp returned and another 1/2 gallon turned it off.
As for the cooling system it holds a lot as well. I added new 50/50 anti freeze over several days. Four and 1/2 gallons is almost what it takes for a dry system. I used a squeeze bottle with a clear tube to send coolant over the hump in the top hose to top of the thermostat. Once I felt the system full I added three inches to the over flow tank. In the major cleaning of everything I have miss laid the dip stick for the over flow. After the 20 minute break in run for rings and camshaft with heater on full blast and cooling down the over flow tank measured 2 inches of coolant.
With the next door neighbor standing by with the fire bottle it started as soon as the key rotated. Idled up, warmed up, idled down and I picked up the revs to 1500/2500 for the break in period. I carried it on up to 3000 a few times as it went on. I did touch the AC button and was so pleased the big new electric fan came on. I have the new dryer, tube filter and O rings to service the AC. The gauge settled about the normal location roughly 1/4 inch above the left hash mark. As I was ready to shut down from break in run I noticed the low fuel lamp come back on. Once I finish waxing the under sides of hood and bed I'll take it for a ride to AC shop.
I need to thank the Mature Marine for posting the pictures. Also thanks to those who have taken part and shared. Like so many I came here looking for the answer, "Why is my truck throwing P0303 codes?" I have the removed engine and have yet to dive into it. 2021 was as rough for me as anyone else. Replaced oven, refridge, dish washer, washing machine, central air and water heater. My father passed in march, shop rent doubled in april, daughter totaled her first car ( no injury ) so it's been a year to forget. Thanks Steve
 
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