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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I did this write up a while ago, but I can finally post it with pictures :)
This is for my 1998 5.2L, but this method is applicable with a few of the other engines as well.

Parts list

- 8mm Socket for the Throttle Cable brackets
- 10mm Socket or necessary size for battery terminal disconnect
- 13mm Socket for the bolts that hold the Throttle body itself down.
- #25 Torx driver for the IAC, MAP, and TPS
- Adjustable wrench [in my case, for the airhat removal]
- CRC Throttle Body and Air Intake Cleaner [or similar cleaning product][/URL]
- Replacement gasket [good idea to have around, and about $2.50 from advanced auto or a similar place]

Procedures

1. Remove Negative Battery Connection. Tool: 10mm Socket if applicable


2. a) Locate Air Intake and Remove the Assembly.


2. b) Resulting Image.


3. a) Locate the IAC [Idle Air Control] and disconnect it


3. b) Locate the TPS [Throttle Position Sensor] and disconnect it


3. c) and Locate the MAP [Manifold Absolute Pressure] Sensor


3. d) Remove the Vacuum line as well



4. Disconnect the C-Clamps holding the throttle linkage. Note, the rear linkage goes to the Transmission [kickback] and the front two are for throttle and cruise control

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
4. a) From the furthest from the Throttle Body to the closest C-Clamp Connection.


4. b)


4. c)


5. Remove the Throttle Bracket Tool: 8mm Socket

5. a) The one on the side of the bracket


5. a) The two on the front of the bracket


6. Remove the Throttle Body Bolts Tool: 13mm Socket



 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
7. Remove the Throttle Body and the Gasket






8. Remove all 3 Sensors from the Throttle Body. The torx driver is used to remove all of the sensors Tool: #25 Torx Driver



9. Resulting [Dirty] Naked Throttle Body




 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
10. Cleaning the Throttle Body. Tool: Intake Cleaner of choice

Read the instructions on the can of cleaner as some have VERY strong fumes and will remove paint and stain clothing. With all of the sensor removed, liberally spray the CRC cleaner onto the areas you wish to clean. The stream essentially stripped all of the carbon off of the Throttle Body. Using a tooth brush and terry cloth I was able to strip all of the carbon I wanted off. Take the IAC sensor as well and clean that up. With the carbon removed from it's plunger and the area were it sits, your idle will smooth out. These are the results I wished to achieve. I believe 100% clean is attainable. I worked for about 95% because I will probably port/polish my Throttle Body in the near future.









Let the Throttle Body dry before re-installation.

11. Re-installation:

Follow the steps in reverse order. Add the New gasket before replacing the Throttle Body. Reconnect the battery and start it up to make sure everything was done correctly.

Good luck and post up if you need assistance :)
 

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excellent write up Luke!! Rep points for that!!
 

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Great write up. I'll be doing this in the near future. I'll rep you once I have a rep power above zero.:)
 

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I have a 91 dakota with the 318. im trying to geteverything out of it i can. already took the fan off and replaced with electric cut exhaust off and shortened it and added flow master. ive heard talk bout IAC mod.s and a few others. also my friend owned the truck before me and it didnt run all that strong then but yet it would bark when it shifted into second everytime. now it shifts fine no slipping or anything but dont bark second. automatic with overdrive that is. anyway thanks. any ideas would be appreciated
 

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Thanks. My 97 was stalling constantly and this was exactly what my friend suggested that I do. Perfect and thanks for the post. It was easy and no more stalling.
In addition, I stuffed a rag into the intake and cleaned the throttle body openings as well. Then after reassembly, shot the rest of the can into the throttle body while revving the engine. Cleared out a bit more gunk.
 

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Nice write up and a great job on the pictures. A littlw late for me as I have already removed and reinstalled the engine etc. However if you have any ideas on how to get more Power and MPG out of my 5.2L Magnum v8 1996 Dakota 4x4 I am open to any and all suggestions. you mentioned that you were going to port and polish the Throttle body ? What are the gains for that process? I have also seen many ads both on here and in the magazines for the "chip" upgrades any advice on those?
Thanks,
Gary
 

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I just bought a 96 Dodge Dakota. The guy I bought it from told me it had issues of occasionally stalling, and backfiring.

I had Ford F-150 that did this and was able to remove and clean the throttle body and it fixed it perfectly. So, I assumed this was the same issue with the Dakota.

Thank you very much for posting step by step instructions & photos!

I am far from a mechanic, but good at following instructions. Ha Ha

I will try this to see if it solves my problem. If not, I may be asking for you guys help!
 

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I had my codes checked today at the parts store, and it was throwing a bunch of codes! Most were misfires. The guy said the others could actually be caused by the misfires.

He reccomended I change my Ignition Coil, and it fixed it..... for now anyway. I let it run for about 15 minutes and they never came back.
It still wants to stall at idle on occasion.

Cleaning the throttle body tomorrow, and replacing the gasket. Hopefully that helps too.

Cheap fixes on a dirt cheap truck are always good!
 
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