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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, i have had my dakota for almost 5 months now and i do not remember this happening when the weather was warmer

recently about the last month or so, maybe a bit longer, when its cold or the engine hasnt warmed up, as im driving and going from second to third it doesnt want to shift and when it does it slams in kind of hard, not too bad though, but a decent jolt when it does shift

i can tell when this is about to happen because the engine revs, the rpm's go up, but the truck doesnt go any faster. if it step on it i can get it to change gears into third and i get that jolt, but the rpm's go way up to over 5k. sometimes i can ride it out a bit and it will change on its own, but takes a bit of time and the rpm's still climb, just not as high if i gas it

i checked the tranny fluid after i drove around for awhile and it was above the max line (my oil is too, the used car dealer probably had all that topped off, getting ready to change the oil though, been 5k miles already) but it looked ok

any thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
this also happens even after driving on the highway for a good bit. if i get off the highway and stop at a light, it will sometimes do it if it is cold outside
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
bump! anyone?
 

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On my old Dakota it did that once in a while. I changed the fluid and did some work on the valve body and it didn't do it anymore. I think it must have had a little piece of trash floating around in it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
yeah i was thinking of changing the fluid soon. whats the vavle body? guess if i dont know, i shouldnt be messin with it :)
 

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The valve body sends the fluid to where it needs to go, it has passages and little steel balls that direct it to the pistons in the clutch packs. When you change the fluid, if you have a lift, take the valve body out and remove the accumulator piston spring. This will firm up the shifts. Did it to mine and it feels so much better. I also turned up the pressure a bit too. Do a search on youtube or google for a dodge 46re valve body. I think that's what yours would be. Let me know how it goes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The valve body sends the fluid to where it needs to go, it has passages and little steel balls that direct it to the pistons in the clutch packs. When you change the fluid, if you have a lift, take the valve body out and remove the accumulator piston spring. This will firm up the shifts. Did it to mine and it feels so much better. I also turned up the pressure a bit too. Do a search on youtube or google for a dodge 46re valve body. I think that's what yours would be. Let me know how it goes.
what about the TV cable? saw that on a few videos, would that help?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
74,444 exactly :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
so how hard is it to take the valve body out? drain the fluid, take off the cover and filter and unbolt it? and will i be able to identify the accumulator piston and how hard will that be to get the spring out?
 

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Its not hard, when you pull the pan you'll see the VB. This job is best done with the truck in the air. I wish you were closer we'd put it in my brother's shop on the lift and just do it. Wish I would've took pics or video of when i did mine. Let me know when your gonna do and I'll write you up a little guide to refer to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
i will, never messed with the transmission though. i'll install a new intake manifold or headers but im leery when it comes to the transmission
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
that would be cool, sent you a pm
 

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It's cool, you won't be getting to deep in it. I can send some pics of a tranny I've got thats already apart.
I'm also interested in this for future reference.:)
 

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I have 77,187 and I seem to have a similar problem when I am driving and mat the peddle to the floor from a dig it will not shift and hit the rev limiter unless I feather the peddle at like5800rpm, if I am driving and floor it and it down shift it will slip out and rev high then if I let off re engage, if I do like a slow roll and gradually push it to the floor but not push the peddle that last lil bit it will shift it is just wwhne I bury it to the floor so if you get any where with the valve body and trans flush let me know as well, thanx bambam
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I have 77,187 and I seem to have a similar problem when I am driving and mat the peddle to the floor from a dig it will not shift and hit the rev limiter unless I feather the peddle at like5800rpm, if I am driving and floor it and it down shift it will slip out and rev high then if I let off re engage, if I do like a slow roll and gradually push it to the floor but not push the peddle that last lil bit it will shift it is just wwhne I bury it to the floor so if you get any where with the valve body and trans flush let me know as well, thanx bambam
changing the fluid did seem to help, havent adjusted the TV cable yet, still want to do that, but it is a lot better, havent had it slip at all in awhile
 

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I'm having the same problem with my 98 5.2L V8. When the tranny warms
up, it takes a long time for it to shift from 2-3rd. Rpms go up to 3500
and finally the PCM decides it's time to shift.

The shift valve solenoid cable from the throttle body linkage down to the
shift valve solenoid, seems to have quite a bit of slack at the throttle body linkage.

When I disconnected it, and tried to pull on it, it seemed like it was "binding"
and didn't want to spring back. I'm suspect this is more my problem than the
TPS sensor which has the correct voltage range 0.5v (closed throttle) and 3.77 volts
(WOT).

Also the fluid was overfilled by the transmission shop when they repaired
the pinhole leak on the cooler lines 3 years ago.
I downloaded Dodge Ram manual that has the full description of the 46re tranny,
and in the 46re section, it says NOT to overfill these because it's
just as bad as not having enough fluid. The pump creates air froth
and that can cause shifting issues as well.

So I am going to a tranny shop to have the shift cable inspected to see
if it is seized down below and get some of the excess fluid pumped out,
although it was shifting fine with the excess fluid before and the repair
and fluid/filter change was done at 50K, now it's at 105k.
 
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