This timing set gives me mixed emotions. It is finely machined to very tight tolerance with pre stretched true roller chain. Any deflection or out of align as gears move back it won't go on. We put the tensioner on and three of us had not a chance. I may end up with just a cam thrust plate and oil deflector. This chain is going to be there awhile. Once this is correctly done the whole front and pan go in place. Steve
I spent the better part of yesterday going from one machine shop to another trying to find valve spring retainers to fit my springs. I was able to find some that fit the spring but with 8 mm valves the valve and keeper are to deep. It seems Bee Hive springs are popular now. These are not Bee Hive but straight spring OD 1.440, inner 1.033 . Machined for 7 degree keepers to 8 mm stem the Hughes Engine # is HUG 1278 for 16 retainers and they fit spring # HUG 110P single spring with damper. If you have some or can help it would be great. After the block assembly is complete and bagged I'l be grinding ports in cyl heads till retainers can be found. I'm calling every friday looking for them to arrive from manufacture. Thank you for your interest. Steve
I know this is a old pic run before, and I wish it were a better angle. This is the original link belt chain a very strong and dependable part. It must come with some slack out of the box. When I bought the timing kit I ordered the OE type tensioner. As it turns out the two will not work together. Looking above it's plain there is no slack to work with. Even the stationary rubbing block causes a slight deflection. I removed rubbing block and no help at all spring loaded block can not be fully straightened. Since I have no retainers its modify this one or order a camshaft thrust plate with oil deflector. I could save this one for the budget rebuild on my 3.9 currently in truck. I have been turning high quality duplex chains to and above 9,000 RPM since before I knew better. I think this should give good service next 5 or 10 years running up and down 95 looking for old cars. Steve
After several days and trying with as many as three people with car smarts I removed the slapper and installed the timing kit.
I tried several setting to see what can be done. Cam card calls for 110 degrees and I ended up at 110.5. I'm sure by jumping teeth I could have gotten there sooner or later. I'm good with this. Once the timing cover and water pump are on and pan installed that will be it till retainers show up. So much mounts to the heads. Steve
Edit: If you look closely you can see the center hole for the lower pin of the slapper. Go back one page and look at the slapper as mounted before gears. There is not enough room to get it in. I did save it I'll take a look at 100,000 miles and if room I'll put it back in.
Taking this one apart I bagged and tagged hardware as I went. When I have had a little time I clean and wire brush bag and tag clean. This is just a mock up to see what bolt and stud goes where. I did not take enough pictures as it came apart, but having a complete unit in the truck helps. I'll need to install the front seal and use the balancer to align the cover. Gasket, sealers and torque the timing cover and water pump all together. I still have the degree wheel attached to the rear of crank so I can check marking on balancer with timing cover. I'm not sure you ever put a timing light on one but it is marked. Steve
I need to admit I made a mistake thinking I'd use a timing chain tensioner with the Hi Po timing kit. While I have not taken a measurement the pictures show the link belt chain and gear are a smaller dia. than the roller. Some times we look so hard we can't see. Going back and looking at LA engines they did not have a tensioner. While I did look at moving the slapper over, there is no room within the housing. My truck has suffered a cooling system issue for a year. Things are looking up in that department. Steve
This is the oil pan off my core engine. There is a badly damaged one in the truck and a new one in a box around here. We took a hard look at expanding this to 5 qts. With the cross member, tranny, starter, slave or being the lowest point under the truck it's not practical. Once again I find myself trying to solve problems others think are not one. Steve
I had mentioned I got the wrong pressure plate and the balance job did not include the pressure plate. This is a junk yard wheel. and I insisted it be balanced. I had to deal with a machine shop that could balance a V6. Having balanced a few engines along the way I never trust a pressure plate. The machine shop won't set up the crank and bob weights just to do my pressure plate. The pressure plate will need to be attached to the flywheel and the flywheel mounted to a shaft. Steve
This is the answer to the question. The flywheel will bolt to this mandrel and as it is zero balanced should check. and if not a small correction to the mandrel flange should bring it in. Then the pressure plate can be balanced and I'll be happy. Steve
It's clear the bolt pattern is not Dodge but two holes across from each other do line up. And the more important thing is the spigot fit in the center of flywheel. If you look close someone has pressed a sleeve on the smaller dia spigot. Even better once removed the remaining one is the correct dia for the flywheel. It gets bumpy now and then but I set standards and keep them. Steve