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Discussion Starter · #242 ·
I know it's silly but that's me. I rolled up a paper towel sprayed it with brake clean and cleaned the exposed area. Then I taped the timing cover and rotated the crank and painted the damper in the bare area. Any over spray wiped right off the damper. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #244 ·
In another 18 years no one will care. And yes I do go around and paint the heads of the bolts. While living in the south where rust is much less an issue I take no chances. A little paint won't add any horse power but the under drive pulley will reduce loss.
I had forgotten what it takes to just turn a fully assembled short block. I can check it with a old school beam torque wrench. Unlike my screaming four cyls which carry large clearance and turn 9000 plus I have gone with factory specs on bearings and piston to cyl wall. Rather than low tension oil rings I went with std tension. Each piston/rod assembly added drag as it went together. The timing and cam drive the oil pump. Even the timing cover seal adds drag. Sometimes I'm amazed these things work at all. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #246 ·
All sealed up and ready for some heads. It seems to me everything about these engines is heavy. I visited a auto machine shop yesterday owned by a pair of MOPAR guys. They were very nice and helpful but did not have retainers for my springs. They did have more Dodge engine info than anyone else I have met. I'll bag the engine and go back to cyl head grinding. I'm pleased with everything so far. When the new clutch arrives I'll get some good pictures of that being balanced. Then the bottom end will well and truly be complete. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #248 ·
Sorry, life does tend to get in the way. If there is anything I like better than working on mechanical things it's learning. This is a 3.9 V6 Dodge flywheel drilled for a 10.5 clutch which is in fact 10 3/8 but commonly reffered to as 10.5. I only show it here for the casting numbers. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #250 ·
This on the other hand is the correct flywheel for my 3.9 V6 with either 11 or 12 inch clutch. The casting number and the five point star are differences. Also the bolt pattern is visible outside the reluctor ring. The two large holes outside the reluctor upper edge top picture are balance corrections. The three holes within the reluctor top picture are balance corrections. The 12 inch flywheel ( that is clutch size not flywheel size ) has a couple corrections over by the A. If I recall the top flywheel required a correction of 28 grams. That of course is an oz. or once if you like. We'll see how how close they got the one they put their mark on. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #252 ·
I glass beaded this one as well and this is the flywheel machine. Not sure what people like to see but with 3000 views in two months must be something here. I'll flip it over and secure for grinding. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #254 ·
May interest some, I glass beaded the edge, ring gear and center. No reason to do the face as you will see. There are a few blue heat spots which are not bad as there is no surface cracking or checking. This machine grinds the surface leaving a nice pattern. The blue areas are in fact higher than the surrounding areas. The heat hardens the metal and the area around wears. To cut the hard spots in a lathe you would need a very strong set up and very hard tool to avoid push off. Another thing you may not realize. That great big spring pushing against the clutch and grabbing just the edge tends to bowl the wheel. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #256 ·
A earlier shot would have shown how it starts at the edge. Thank goodness for the diamond cup cutters. They do need cooling flow and cut really well. I have been surfacing flywheels on this machine at least 45 years and this is normal. We are not talking any depth to be concerned about. As bad as it looks total of .010 to .015 at the most. It will clear across as we are out of the bowl and dealing with the wear. And everything is running in this pic. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #258 ·
Sparking out, I cut as little as possible and stop feeding down and allow it to "Spark Out" once no sparks, raise the cutter and rinse the slurry away. The coolant is water based and rust is doing it's worst as soon a the machine is off. I washed this one in Safety Clean and sprayed with WD 40. Tomorrow I'll mount flywheel it and the pressure plate go to be balanced. I'll try to get some pictures of that for you. Steve
 

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Discussion Starter · #260 ·
It's plan to see they have as much clutch in there as possible. That is a Classic Mini flywheel to left and crank to right. I'm currently building two 998 Cooper power units. That's engine, transmission, differential and cooling system one piece. Steve
 
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