Dakota Forumz banner
281 - 300 of 365 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter · #282 ·
I have mentioned before I'm a fan of brass freeze plugs. With a couple days till the head castings arrive it's a good time to install flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. Also the pilot bearing which is no fun coming or going. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter · #284 ·
The flywheel is secured by 6 7/16 - 7/8 fine grade 8 bolts drilled in a odd pattern. Only goes on one way. The pressure plate does not have any dowels or alignmant other than the bolts 3/8 - 1 course grade 8. I torque and red Loc-tite all my hardware. The machine shop marked the alignment of pressure plate to flywheel with a white mark I have highlighted it with black paint. The flywheel was balanced then the pressure plate added and balanced as well. Position may effect balance. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter · #286 ·
The pilot bearing is a bear to remove and not a lot better to install. There is a grease seal / dust shield on the outer side. Best to install the right way around. once in place fill with the grease supplied. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter · #288 ·
Funny I have a flywheel for the 10.5 clutch, also the flywheel and 11.5 and 12 inch clutches. This is the big one and looks like enough springs to cushion engagement. I'll put the 11.5 in my next project. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter · #290 ·
Well there is a new cyl head casting. Unlike the factory heads they seem to have hard exhaust valve seats installed. The ports are cast much smoother. I think lightly working to valve bowls will give my most of what there is there for this build. Now we are going to get something done. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter · #292 · (Edited)
This is the 12 inch pressure plate. This should take care of all my clutch needs. Looking forward to it After mounting the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate I could not mount the engine on the engine stand. I had to make up spacers to move the engine out enough to clear the stand. Even with spacers there is barely room to rotate. My plan is to build oil pressure with a hex shaft and drill while rotating the crank by hand. I think I'll do this before the intake goes in place. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter · #293 ·
Back on page three I had begun work on the cyl heads. I picked one and started work removing rust outside. I checked the chambers and failed to see the very tiny hair line crack. I began porting with burrs, stones and paper rolls. Due to a long back order for cyl head parts I moved away from head work. Taking up where I left off I realized the second head was cracked and further inspection located a crack in the first head. Before starting work on the new sat of heads I decided to read a book on cyl head modification. I'm now thinking I may not have done myself any favors on the first head. I now believe port matching and bowl blending may well give the best results. I'll see what I can do to get some good pictures. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter · #295 ·
It's plain to see where the machine work ends and casting begins. Call it a ridge a step what you like blending the two I think is my goal. This is the new head and the seats are surely machine done. Starting at the cast chamber you have the outer narrowing angle followed by the seat angle then the inner narrowing angle. Blending the inner angle to the cast port is what I call low hanging fruit. On the cracked head I opened the port almost to the seat angle all the way to the turn. You go grinder boy. Glad I got that out of my system. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter · #297 ·
It really is hard to get good picture, if you can zoom in there is a valve in the last exhaust. that is the cyl with the crack between the valves. I did go to work on the ports and it shows. I did much the same trying to remove the hump in the exhaust port. The next set of heads will be very different. More may not always be better. Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
424 Posts
Discussion Starter · #299 ·
No matter who is doing the casting or where, there is the dreaded core shift. Using the same gasket aligned the same way I port match intake leaving about half the red line. On the heads the red line is ground away fully. Wear a mask and eye protection. You can get hurt doing this. I'm rereading the chapter on port size vs cyl curtain effect ratio. Steve
 
281 - 300 of 365 Posts
Top