[Arkqnsas_Dan]

My truck started jerking very badly while driving for the second time in months. The first time I cleaned my MAF and it worked like a charm.
The other day I cleaned my MAF again, and it worked. For one day I went without jerking. The next day I replaced my fuel filter and it worked. For one day. Today I'm planning on changing my spark plugs and air filter after work, but what should I also inspect or test to better my odds of being able to get to work this weekend?
Thanks in advance.

 

[immattj]

I would have though that it would have a MAP (versus MAF) sensor.
Are you getting a CEL?
Maybe time to actually replace that sensor?

 

[Arkqnsas_Dan]

I would have though that it would have a MAP (versus MAF) sensor.
Are you getting a CEL?
Maybe time to actually replace that sensor?

You are right. My mistake. The only reason I ain't replaced the MAP sensor is because my mechanic did it a year ago. But if they've got one at O'Reilly tonight I'll get a replacement. I'm prepared to replace the Crankshaft Pos Sensor, the Fuel Pump and Coil Pack, but just not tonight. The next day I might have off isTuesday, so im just trying to make it through to then. I could take another vehicle if need be but I don't want to lol

 

[immattj]

What year & engine?
And when it starts bucking & jerking do you get a CEL?
With the quality of replacement parts these days, I wouldn't be surprised if a year old sensor could go bad, but I would think that this would throw a code. I might be wrong about that.

As far as the fuel pump & the coil, before changing those I think I would try to get it where it was bucking & jerking & then check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. I kind of don't think it would be your coil; I think you would get a code for random misfire or maybe a misfire on a specific cylinder.

It does kind of remind me of what I have read when a throttle position sensor starts to go bad.

Do a google on "symtoms of a bad TPS" and see what you think.

 

[Arkqnsas_Dan]

What year & engine?
And when it starts bucking & jerking do you get a CEL?
With the quality of replacement parts these days, I wouldn't be surprised if a year old sensor could go bad, but I would think that this would throw a code. I might be wrong about that.

As far as the fuel pump & the coil, before changing those I think I would try to get it where it was bucking & jerking & then check fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge. I kind of don't think it would be your coil; I think you would get a code for random misfire or maybe a misfire on a specific cylinder.

It does kind of remind me of what I have read when a throttle position sensor starts to go bad.

Do a google on "symtoms of a bad TPS" and see what you think.

'92 3.9l v6
When it starts bucking I do get a CEL. I just learned how to read the code so I look forward to doing that this evening. Occasionally I get a CEL on startup.
It wouldn't surprise me either that I may have damaged the MAP sensor. It was very odd that after cleaning it it ran good for a day. Then the next day it was rough again. And yet after replacing the fuel filter and getting it to run good it's back to rough today. I ain't a mechanic but I don't think that should be happening lol.
I'll have to see whether O'Reilly has a fuel pressure gauge too.
A bad TPS sensor could certainly be the culprit. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[immattj]

'92 3.9l v6
When it starts bucking I do get a CEL. I just learned how to read the code so I look forward to doing that this evening. Occasionally I get a CEL on startup.
It wouldn't surprise me either that I may have damaged the MAP sensor. It was very odd that after cleaning it it ran good for a day. Then the next day it was rough again. And yet after replacing the fuel filter and getting it to run good it's back to rough today. I ain't a mechanic but I don't think that should be happening lol.
I'll have to see whether O'Reilly has a fuel pressure gauge too.
A bad TPS sensor could certainly be the culprit. Thanks for the suggestion.

Well, I think if it was me I'd get the code that is setting off the CEL before I threw any parts at it. Once you get that code, it will be a lot easier to know where to start.

Oh, and I'd bet money that OReilleys will have that gauge, but get the code first.

 

[Arkqnsas_Dan]

Well, I think if it was me I'd get the code that is setting off the CEL before I threw any parts at it. Once you get that code, it will be a lot easier to know where to start.

Oh, and I'd bet money that OReilleys will have that gauge, but get the code first.

Good deal. I will find out in about 30 minutes when I go on break.
I looked on the website but all I could find was a gauge, no hose or any couplings. I don't think this vehicle has a schrader valve. Might You have a tool number or brand name to look for? I'm seeing people installed these gauges permanently but no tool with hoses or couplings.

 

[immattj]

. I don't think this vehicle has a schrader valve.

Oops! I think that maybe in '92 that was throttle body injection (TBI)?
For the time being, ignore what I said about checking your fuel pressure.
But anyway, get that code first.

 

[immattj]

. . . I just did a couple of real quick searches to familiarize myself a little bit more, and it looks like people put an adapter in between the TB and the gauge. It looks like. But anyway, don't even worry about that until you get that code.

 

[Arkqnsas_Dan]

Oops! I think that maybe in '92 that was throttle body injection (TBI)?
For the time being, ignore what I said about checking your fuel pressure.
But anyway, get that code first.

Well it gave me code 41, an alternator or wiring code, so now I am left with more questions than when I started.
This truck has a new battery, and the alternator has been working just fine. Could it be a bad ECM or something, idk.

 

[immattj]

Well it gave me code 41, an alternator or wiring code, so now I am left with more questions than when I started.
This truck has a new battery, and the alternator has been working just fine. Could it be a bad ECM or something, idk.

Chrysler Fault Code 41: Alternator field control circuit...

Chrysler Fault Code 41: Alternator field control circuit open or shorted by Bob O'Neill and Bob Lincoln As the logic module turns on or off the alternator field coil driver, it monitors the voltage. If it detects a voltage near 0vdc when the coil driver is turned on or near 12vdc when the...

www.allpar.com

Hmmm, that is interesting. Well, I suppose that could have an effect on driveability, but I agree with you that I would think your battery would be discharging. But I don't know for sure.

Before I threw any parts at it, I think I'd have the alternator tested at a parts store who has the test equipment to do so (which should be most of the stores). I don't think that buying a reman ECU/PCM would be your next strp. Before I would go that route, anyway, I would send it somewhere to have it diagnosed (to be sure instead of blindly throwing a part at it). That would, unfortunately, incur some down time.

I'd get to the bottom of that code 41 first.

 

[immattj]

. . . if you do pull your alternator off to have it tested, i once bought an ac delco alt for my chevy pu from rockauto that came with a service bulletin from gm warning one to disconnect negative battery cable prior to unhooking alt to advoid a harmful spike to the pcm.

also, inspect all your wiring at the alt.

you also mentioned your crank position sensor, and that does remind me of some posts that described a condition similar to your issue, and someone posted that a crank pos sensor going bad could cause that without a CEL.

 

[Arkqnsas_Dan]

. . . if you do pull your alternator off to have it tested, i once bought an ac delco alt for my chevy pu from rockauto that came with a service bulletin from gm warning one to disconnect negative battery cable prior to unhooking alt to advoid a harmful spike to the pcm.

also, inspect all your wiring at the alt.

you also mentioned your crank position sensor, and that does remind me of some posts that described a condition similar to your issue, and someone posted that a crank pos sensor going bad could cause that without a CEL.

My wiring has definitely had some work done to it. It so far looks impeccable though. The wires are neat, safe and secure. The previous owner installed LED lights and a custom radio.
The only issue I ever had with the power system is that six months ago I got a steady drop on the dash voltmeter until I could no longer start the vehicle. After changing the battery then the alternator the problem persisted. I had my alternator tested, it passed, and so I reinstalled mine and was refunded the one I bought.
After some electrical probing my mechanic found that the tachometer was somehow parasitic even with the vehicle off. So we removed the tach fuse and everything's been fine regarding the charging system ever since.
Well I guess I'll try replacing the CPS tomorrow and hope for the best. Tonight I'll do the spark plugs because why not. And if none of that works I'll remove the alternator and have it tested again.
I don't even know where to send an ECU but I'm sure Mr. Trayce at O'Reilly or my mechanic knows somebody.
You have been very generous with Your time friend. I'm 28, married father of four. The oldest is 6, and I'm just trying to get something lined out to guarantee wife and kids will get to mass on Sunday, and I'll get to work.
I may have to jump my '09 ford fusion and use it this weekend. That thing is awesome, I4 engine, and I love it. But man I hope You never have to locate and change the PCV valve in a duratect 23 engine. It's been sitting the last couple months because I ain't gotten around to it.
I'll post updates

 

[immattj]

Sorry about that last post; I was trying to do two things at once.
Anyway, what I was meaning to say regarding the crankshaft position sensor is that it now comes cack to me from previous threads I've read that people have reported them acting up & creating driveability issues such as what you are describing WITHOUT generating a CEL. So for the price of the part & how easy it is to replace, I'd look at it as nan expendable part . . . almost like a tuneup part. A lot of people are saying to only buy the MOPAR sensor, but I am thinking you won't find that for a '92. Keep the old one for a spare in case it doesn't fix it.

The camshaft position sensor for a 3.9/5.2/5.9 lives underneath the distributor cap & will also be known as the distributor pickup coil, and for the price of the part (which I also consider expendable) & how easy it is to change, it probably wouldn't be a bad idea to get that as well.

As far as the PCM: my '03 went into an intermittent crank but o start mode which went from intermittent to permanant . . . at which time my troubleshooting sequence led me to the PCM, but I was still not 100% convinced. I did send mine to a place called SIA Electronics in Tilden Il. & they did diagnose & repair (that was back in '18). I want to point out that I am not plugging this facility, I am only relating my one & only personal experience.

And that code 41 you are getting interests me.

 

[immattj]

. . . and I also wanted to add, that right now I'd put the ECU/PCM at the bottom of the list.

 

[borthdaniel631]

You are right. My mistake. The only reason I ain't replaced the MAP sensor is because my mechanic did it a year ago. But if they've got one at O'Reilly tonight I'll get a replacement. I'm prepared to replace the Crankshaft Pos Sensor, the Fuel Pump and Coil Pack, but just not tonight. The next day I might have off isTuesday, so im just trying to make it through to then. I could take another vehicle if need be but I don't want to lol

I had a similar problem for myself I'm part of it turned out to be the seals for the air intake before your maf can be loose or a bad seal letting dirt get in there and having improper vacuum or if you have a map sensor that can be getting contaminated because of this and not having the correct vacuum and if it is over filled with oil it'll go through your PCV valve and contaminate a map sensor which happened to me also double check these couple items if you find a fault in either one fix it and then clean your map sensor or maf sensor