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Performance Upgrades

7.3K views 2 replies 3 participants last post by  mtglass  
#1 · (Edited)
This may be long, so bear with me here. I've seen quite a lot of posts from various forums about 'does this product work?'

More Power

The easiest way to get horsepower and torque out of the little Dakotas with the V6 motors is to swap
for a 318/360, plain and simple. Dollar per dollar there is more return on the investment by going
with more displacement. However, this doesn't necessarily mean that it's the funnest and most exciting way.

If you haven't the money for an engine swap then purchasing a nitrous kit from either ZEX or NOS would be a quick way to get ~50 more horsepower out of the stock engine with a fogger system. Yes, nitrous overall can be expensive to fill, regulate, and ultimately replace an engine with, but it certainly can be a bit cheaper than a full on engine swap.

If going to the bottle isn't on your list of things to do your next option for upgrade would be going
forced induction with either a roots/twin screw/centrifugal supercharger or a turbocharger. Highly expensive done right, but definitely worth it in the end.

What's even more expensive than a FI build? Going naturally aspirated with the same horsepower/torque figures in mind. Looking at much, much more money poured into an engine to produce the same result. Doubling horsepower through machine work, pistons, tuning, fuel, fuel management, and driveability will be time consuming, money draining, and overall a headache.

Cheap and effective: Engine Swap
Boost in power at times you'll want it: Nitrous kit
Long Haul Power: Forced Induction

Plain and simple those are your basic options, sure, there are other ideas out there that can be
accomplished, but to what end?


Simple Upgrades That "Work"

You'll see aftermarket companies advertising +20 horsepower to the wheels!, gain 10 MPG with this easy to install chip! Well, they don't work. Ever. To be blunt, air filters, full exhaust systems, chips, and throttle body spacers (for the fuel injected guys) won't net you what is claimed on the packaging.

Intakes; whether Mopar, K&N, AirAid, etc. may only get you 2, 3 horsepower maximum. Yes, maximum. They may claim an increase in gas mileage, only if you keep your lead foot off of the pedal. It is far cheaper to upgrade the intake pipe, or create an open element housing, only and keep the stock air filter (because it will filter the dir much better than the high flowing K&N and its ilk).

Exhaust: Headers with a full dual exhaust might net 5 to 10. Single outlet pipe may do a bit more. But 20 horsepower? Nope. Not on a V6 stock engine.

Chips: Whether plug-n-play or if you send off your computer to JET, they don't work. Those $20 chips you find on eBay are resistors and do nothing but trick the computer to believe that the IAT/MAP sensor is reading colder than it is so it puts in a slightly more amount of fuel. The ECUs may be EPROM and can be re-writable with different fuel trim and timing maps, but these should be done in house at a reputable tuning shop, not sending your ECU off to some company so they can solder in some resistors.
Example 1
Example 2

Spark Plug Wires: 8MM plug wires are nice, but not really necessary for lower horsepower and daily driven application. OEM wires will do just fine, save your money.
Example 1

Electric Turbocharger: Just...no. No. None of them do. None of them have. None of them ever will.


Simple Upgrades that Do Work

Thermostat: An older trick for vehicles pre-computer and pre-ODB2 is to change out the thermostat
with one that opens sooner. Most OE temperature thermostats open at 192*/195*, changing out to a 180* thermostat will allow the engine to stay a bit cooler and add some more fuel while still retaining enough heat for the cabin. This should work just fine for OBD2 and newer vehicles, however, there may be a CEL that will show.

Air Intake Pipe: Your standard paper air filter will work just fine for most applications, but going to a smooth intake pipe will help more than switching to a gauze/foam element filter. Keeping the airflow as smooth, short, cold, and direct as possible will help much more than switching to a K&N cone or panel filter.

Headers: Much like the intake, having a smooth, tuned exhaust system (tuned to match the exhaust pulses so the scavenging effect works properly) with ports that are matched to the head or vice versa will have better results than slapping on some shoddily made exhaust pipes that are press bent and held together with clamps rather than welded.

Spark Plugs: Most vehicles now come with iridium plugs, and there's really no upgrade from that. But for the older vehicles upgrading your spark plugs to iridium tipped plugs are best and can improve horsepower and torque by actual numbers. You won't feel it in the seat of your pants, but the better the burn the more efficient the engine. Do not gap these plugs. They are copper core and iridium tipped; if you gap them you'll take off the iridium tip and have an 8 dollar copper spark plug.

Oils: Reducing friction is huge. Using full synthetic oil will help in engine, transmission, transfer case, differential(s). Not only will it help the engine operate with less friction on the crank and help unleash more power to the wheels, but it will help everything last longer. Note: Full synthetic oil isn't so much a cleaner as it is an inhibitor. It won't clean the engine, but it will help protect it from the oil leaving deposits.

Parasitic Drag: Have an A/C pump that doesn't work but is still hooked up? Put on a bypass pulley. Heavy crank pulley? Replace with a lightweight underdriven pulley*. Remove any accessories you can. The less the engine has to turn the better. At the very least have your crank, water pump, and alternator as the bare minimum. This won't add horsepower but will release it from being pent up in spinning pulleys and accessories.

*Underdriven pulleys do work, but they may help damage the engine by not helping regulate the balance of the crankshaft. There is a lot of talk about whether this is true or not, so use your own judgement.

Engine Management: Piggy back systems will work to tune the computer to increase or decrease fuel consumption. The more fuel the more power. Unlike the JET chips or other softwire chips that are crimped into place on the IAT/MAP wires, the piggy back systems read the signal sent from a variety of different sensors and then can be modified by the driver before going to the ECU. It's quick and simple tuning at its best for a cheaper option than a full standalone computer. For safe tuning you should have a Wideband Oxygen Sensor with gauge or an Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor on each bank or one sensor on the Y-Pipe. You need to know what readings you are getting before messing with fuel and timing.

Now that we've got that out of the way for what you will likely see out of your upgrades, combining the Intake/Header/Exhaust, ignition, along with removing of components, and bit of an engine tune, might get you 10-20 HP/TQ to the wheels. But that's at the combination of a healthy engine (no knocking, full synthetic oil, good ignition system, compression within specification) with routine maintenance.
 
#2 ·
An excellent post

I hope you do not mind if I add to this excellent post to explain the why of making power, and thus explain what parts contribute to making more power.

All engines make power by burning a proportionate amount of air and fuel. To make more power, you simply have to introduce more air and fuel. However there is one element often left out of the equation. That being the element of time. Horsepower is derived by how much air and fuel you can get into and burn in the engine, in a given time. This is where RPM comes to play. It's easy to understand. Your engine would theoretically burn twice the fuel at 6000rpm then it would at 3000rpm, thus making more power. But at twice the speed, the dynamics of the air flow entering the engine changes. At faster engine rpms, the valves which allow the air to enter the engine are opening and closing faster, and the amount of time they remain open is drastically reduced. Bends in the manifold or irregularities in the surface of the intake runners, create resistance to high speed air flow. And fuel can fall out of suspension, puddling on the walls of the intake runners.


To make hp, many performance modifications for gas engines are often designed around improving the breathing capability of the engine at higher rpms. For example, intake manifolds come in a variety of designs intended to improve breathing. Everything from using long runners, dual planes, or other designs which have larger diameter runners with as few bends as possible, enhance high speed breathing. Porting and polishing is an extension of the modified intake systems. By smoothing over the transition between the intake manifold and the head, the air flow is less interrupted, thus improving high speed air flow to the cylinders.

Cams are another component designed to improve breathing. By controlling the valves at higher engine rpms, an aftermarket performance cam can open the valves earlier, open them deeper (into the cylinder) and for a longer period of time. The aftermarket cam allows more time for more air to get into the cylinder. When it comes to getting more fuel in, there are numerous means to get in more fuel. In the carburetor days, having larger or multiple carbs was the way to get more fuel in. These days there is fuel injection and with fuel injection, the option is to increase the size of the injectors and increase the pressure at which the fuel is injected.

On the exhaust side, improvements to breathing can be made there too. Getting rid of the exhaust quickly and efficiently makes more room for the incoming charge of air and fuel. Everything else on the high performance engine is designed to supplement or add dependability at these higher rpms, such as performance ignition systems. Or even combustion chamber designs. Many performance engines can use multiple valves. There is also the classic and effective hemi design which benefits by it's use of very large diameter valves.

Most of these mods will increase power, but at higher rpms. Many of these mods do not enhance low rpm performance very much, if at all. Take the performance cam. While they allow more air, more time to enter the cylinder, at high rpms, at lower rpms or idle, they become inefficient. This is why you will notice a lopey idle with many high performance engines. It may sound cool, but they are actually running pretty poorly and probably burning extra fuel in the process.

Another means to increasing power is to increase displacement. Like anything else, a physically bigger engine, allows more air and more fuel to enter the cylinders to burn. A V8 for example, will always produce more hp than a 4 cylinder or six cylinder, simply by having a larger physical size.

Superchargers and turbochargers are just another way to increase the amount of air into the engine. They do require an increase in the delivery of fuel, but they can increase power substantially because they can force feed more air into the engine, than the engine can draw on it's own. This is the only true replacement for displacement. With supercharging or turbocharging, a smaller engine can indeed produce more hp than a naturally aspirated V8.

Power adders such as nitrous oxide, isn't a fuel in itself, but it does have qualities which increase hp by it's use. First, nitrous oxide has the ability to cool down the intake charge, a lot! Thus increasing the density of the incoming air, much like an intercooler does, on a turbo'ed engine. This increased density means more air enters the engine. Next, nitrous oxide contains oxygen which also burns with the fuel. It's simply adding more air into the engine for the fuel to burn with and releasing more power.

Besides nitrous oxide, plain old water can be a power adder. Water injection can be used to increase hp. It works similarly to nitrous, in that it cools the intake charge, increasing the density of the air entering the engine. Add more fuel and you make more power.

There are other types of fuels which naturally produce more power due to whats known as energy density. Diesel, for example contains almost twice the energy density of gasoline, per gallon. This is also why diesels tend to inherently produce greater torque and increased fuel economy at far less engine rpms. At the other end of the spectrum of fuels, you have nitromethane. Technically, engines that burn nitro, tend to be very high horsepower engines. Top fuel dragsters exclusively run on nitromethane, but the fuel itself has a very low energy density. The difference is, in a top fuel engine, you can burn over 7X the amount of fuel in the engine at once, thus releasing an enormous amount of power at the cost of horrendous fuel economy.

So in a nut shell. Making power is a matter of introducing as much air and fuel into the cylinders at higher rpms, as possible. Performance parts, such as "chips", physically cannot trick the computer enough to introduce increased amount of air and fuel into the engine to make a significant difference. Nor do other "bolt on" products which promise performance, like special spark plugs, or fuel line magnets.

Ed
 
#3 ·
2 very good posts. Thank you.

You guys didn't mention just using higher Octane (93 vs 87)
and how that helps you advance the timing, unleashing more power.
(the main advantage of tuners IMO)

Higher octane also allows you to raise the compression without pre-ignition: Some of the mods mentioned actually do that to some degree: improving the intake, any kind of boosting, porting and polishing, headers, EGR, cam timing and valve overlap all contribute some to the amount of air that is pumped in. But to really reach peak conditions you need high performance heads with improved springs and valves.
And you need to control the timing...see previous point.

Also, some modern engines are using cooled EGR now.
This reduces pumping losses, stabilizes cylinder temperatures, and helps to reduce NOX.

I think a CAC (cold air charger) is useful too for naturally aspirated and boosted engines. Let's just say it can't hurt.

Mike