Try a superchip, they are about 315 bucks when on sale at Autoanything.

 

I'm just listening In because I'm in the exact same boat. I have a 89 3.9 and would really like to get some more power out of but I think a motor swap is out of my league. Also do you have to chanel the motor mounts as well or it there a motor that just drops in. And second of all if I were to do a motor swap I'd want more than 200 hp if you know what I mean

 

For a 1989, your main problem is that the engine bay is a bit short for a V8 to just drop in. It can be done - Shelby shoe-horned a 318 in there - but you have to get rid of the mechanical fan and go between the condenser and radiator with a pusher.

A Magnum 5.2/5.9, with the wiring harnesses and ECU, will drop in with that caveat. Motor mounts swap if it's 2WD, transmission will bolt up (although you'll need the proper torque converter) and may even last a while. A later LA 318/360 (mid 80's on) will also, given that you may have more fits getting an ECU to work unless you roll your own or convert to completely non-computer (add a voltage regulator for the alternator, go points or stand alone electronic for the distributor.) Carbed or TBI'd will use the stock pump, fuel injected may take a different pump and regulator setup.

RwP

 

Oh, I dunno - the local U-Pull-It sells engines (without the accessories on the front, though!) for $218 if you're a paid member. That's not bad.

Transmissions are $79. ECUs are $32, and wiring harnesses are $29 each (so, say three harnesses to get enough of the wiring). At that, I'm at $420 tax included - that fits within $500. Fluids will push over that, but he'll be ahead of the game even so.

RwP

 

Cheapest and best upgrade to get you to 200+ HP? Drop in a 5.9L Magnum V8. You'll need the proper ECU for a 5.9L (the 5.2L ECU will also work if it's not the exact same), and to add the two extra injector wires.

You can also use the 5.2L (318) Magnum.

Try to get a motor out of a 1992 or 1993, those had slightly larger exhaust manifolds and for only 200HP, should do nicely. Supposedly, the 5.2 is 230HP (ref: http://www.allpar.com/trucks/dakota-1987.html ).

RwP

 

Though that is the best way to make power, it seems that an entire engine is going to be a bit out of their budget.

 

Don't know if your 200HP goal will be met then. That's a decent increase of 50 HP (drivetrain loss and all taken into consideration).

In any case, first thing's first; make sure the engine is in perfect running condition. Right now that's the best thing for it if you want to meet your goals down the road. Modifying a worn engine will do more harm to it and will make reaching your horsepower/torque goals that much harder.

Start off with the basics; fluids, plugs/wires, run SeaFoam/water through the intake to get rid of carbon deposits, fix anything that's broken (vacuum hoses, gaskets, bearings, bushings), etc.

Obtaining your goal can happen, but it's more effective to save for better parts.

 

also the motor is a 200k mile engine, but it runs great other than a light high idle, witch i have found to be a vaccum leak

 

thank you, but on current budjet i have to stick with glass pack, i live in michigan, no emissions here. and its stock flat filter, but im switching to the spectre ten inch filter, because on many other vehicles ive done them on they work sound and suck fantastic.

 

200 should be pretty attainable with minimal upgrades. But they will be a bit expensive. Ditch the glasspack and go for something that will sound nice and give you a bit more horsepower. I would recommend Gibson, Magnaflow, or Flowmaster. ~$150

Depending on how you want to delete the cat, check your local laws, many states have laws against removing the catalytic unless the vehicle's purpose to not be driven on state roads anymore.

Swapping to a bigger throttle body will help, but make sure you port match it to your intake manifold or you'll be doing more harm than good.

Is the air filter a panel filter or a cone? Either or, nab up an intake pipe for a 5.2. You may be able to use the stock airbox, which would be recommended to keep the heat away from the filter.

In any case, I wrote a decent guide, and another here, which should do well for what you're looking for.